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Tube Frame Track T

Discussion in 'Photo Album' started by meangreen, Jun 26, 2012.

  1. meangreen

    meangreen
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    A couple of short updates - First, since my radiator is inside the nose, I needed a remote filler. I looked for some other option, but finally ended up making my own small "fill tank". I fab'd the tank out of a piece of 2 x 3 thin wall (14 gauge) tubing, some 1/16 x 2 flat stock, pieces of 1" black iron pipe, and the bolt-on filler & cap from a Nissan 300Z. I found the filler while roaming the local salvage yard looking for an idea... The bracket is the original factory engine hoist loop.:cool:

    After I finished the filler and found a couple of hoses that would work, I was finally able to fire up the engine and keep it running for more than 10 seconds. In fact, I ran it until the thermostat opened to make sure I had all the air purged out of the system. The engine sounds good, hitting on all four cylinders and no unwanted noises or knocks. The bad news is it wont idle. I checked for vacuum leaks and played with the timing to no avail. Apparently the old junkyard carburetor will need a complete rebuild or replacement (not a big surprise).:rolleyes:

    100_1592b.jpg 100_1599a.JPG
     
  2. meangreen

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    The other thing I did was fabricate the dash panel. The steel structure that supports the cowl steering requires that all my gauges be located to the right of the steering column, so I have clustered all of them in the center. This body does not have enough vertical depth in the dash to accommodate the gauges clustered in this manner, so I had to fabricate something. I could have made an elegant wood piece like my coupe, but this T is supposed to replicate an old race car, so I made a panel out of .063" aluminum.:thumbsup:

    After a session of cut & try, tape the pieces back on, cut & try again, repeat, repeat, I finally ended up with a pattern that pleases me. It's simple (which an old race car would be) and functional, but still looks good. Some of the nicer old race cars used a process called "engine turning" to make plain metal surfaces a bit more attractive. When I was building Quarter-midgets 35+ years ago, I came up with a process that mimics engine turning using common tools. After the "turning" process I coat the raw aluminum with clear acrylic urethane. Otherwise, it turns dull and greasy fingerprints are virtually impossible to remove. If anybody wants, I'll go into more detail, but here is my dash panel fabrication and the result in pictures.:D

    100_1607a.JPG 100_1606a.JPG 100_1609a.JPG 100_1613a.JPG 100_1614a.JPG 100_1616a.JPG
     
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  3. flootiebuell

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    Great Job!!!!
     
  4. CDNflatlander

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    Excellent build, I do like the alternative engine to a V8....not that I generally want anything less, but we did keep the 2.5l from our S10 donor for exactly the same potential project (well not exact, wasn't thinking of the same ladder frame). Very cool, I have saved your building link to read at a later date, the interest off the top will be to gather the info you laid out on the steering box (type/style) as well as the way you chose to mount it. Probably a few evenings of reading with over 50 pages there.
    Thanks for the peak into your project :)
    Greg
     
  5. meangreen

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    Thanks for the compliments, guys. This project has taken twice as long as expected because I got sidetracked many times; life has a habit of getting in the way! I'm in the process of wiring this car now, so there is finally "light at the end of the tunnel".:D

    Greg - The cowl-mounted steering was quite a challenge. I used the steering box from a 1985 Ford Ranger pickup because they already work the correct direction and don't have to be modified (reversed). If I ever do it again I may search for a box with a longer sector (output) shaft to simplify the installation.:cool:
     
  6. meangreen

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    I DROVE IT!!:D I finally had everything in place and working yesterday, but the weather was a little wet for roadsters. Today the weather cooperated and I took my first, much-anticipated test drive. I went around block in the neighboring housing addition and then up the side street beside my house. When I got back home I discovered the brakelights were staying on (I need to adjust the switch), but that's the only problem. The cowl steering that I wrestled with and swore at when I was building it works very nicely.:cool: This thing is going to be a blast to drive!:thumbsup:

    Here are a couple of pics that my wife shot of my test run today.

    HPIM0444a.JPG HPIM0445a.JPG
     
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  7. benT

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    Congrats!! It'll take a few days for your smile to fade...
     
  8. EX JUNK

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    WOW!!! That is one sweet looking ride. Have you decided on a color yet?

    Jim
     
  9. meangreen

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    Yeah, Ben, I'm still grinning. First rides in a new build are always a joy, especially when they go as smoothly as this one.:D

    Thanks, Jim. Yes, the plan is for it to be Ford Wimbleton white with big red scallops on the nose; the same red I used on the frame & undercarraige. It's a deep metallic red GM color. Lettering will be gold leaf with black outline.:cool: Here's my original sketch:
    Roadster concept 1b.jpg
     
  10. ford4ever

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    Very nice!!! congratulations on your ride. it came out amazing!
     
  11. EX JUNK

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    Can't wait to see it in person.

    Jim
     
  12. Hotrod46

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    The car turned out great! I've been following this car for a while. I think it was on another forum when I saw it the first time.

    I was surprised when this thread started because I figured it had been finished a long time ago. I know about taking a long time to finish a project. My 46 took 7 years to get on the road!

    Congrats again. Looks like it should be a lot of fun.

    Mike
     
  13. EX JUNK

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    The postings on the build of your car should be on HOT ROD REFUGE. IMHO it is a GREAT build that all should see.

    Jim
     
  14. tea boy

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    <a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/DSCF3558_zps53904976.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/DSCF3558_zps53904976.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCF3558_zps53904976.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/DSCF3560_zpsb5a7b466.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/DSCF3560_zpsb5a7b466.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCF3560_zpsb5a7b466.jpg"/></a>
    Like the paint job . Took pics of my T at my club show last year at 6.00 in the morning as the sun come up +frost on the ground and just drove 15 miles
     
  15. meangreen

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    Thank you all for the compliments.
    Mike - We were following each other's builds over on Club Hot Rod. This has been my longest-taking project yet. Life just kept getting in the way...:rolleyes:
    Jim - At this point it might be easier to just put a link to here and my "other" build thread on Hot Rod Refuge. A complete build thread over there would use a lot of space and may be redundant to have the same stuff in three places.:confused:
    Tea Boy - Is that a modified Anglia nose on your T? Where are you and where was that show? I gather from the right-side drive that it's not in the USA. Tell us about your car (engine? chassis? your build? kit? etc.). Great minds think alike (red scallops)!:cool:

    When I started I had a goal of $4000. Early in the project I revised that up to $4500. I totaled up my receipts so far. I have $4232.89 invested in this project. I still need to have glass put in the windshield, buy paint and rear tires, and finish some small details. Looks like I will exceed my $4500 goal, but maybe not by much.:D
     
  16. tea boy

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    <a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/DSCF0462_zps78e90cf0.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/DSCF0462_zps78e90cf0.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCF0462_zps78e90cf0.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/DSCF0463_zps16ae66b1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/DSCF0463_zps16ae66b1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCF0463_zps16ae66b1.jpg"/></a>
    Yes it is a Anglia nose ,cut down. Toyota 2000 cc 5 speed manual gear box , 1 1/2" x 3" steel chassis. 1958 English Ford back axle ( Zodiac ).
    front axle is Jago as is the body . In the 70s there was no one here in England selling T body's so Jago opened a rod shop made his own mold from a car roof and mad the scuttle longer for a bit moor leg room , I bort the body in 1971 and got it on the road in 1978 with a Ford strait 6. Had it on the road for 2 years. Then bounced of the front of a Citron with it and bent the front axle . The life got in the way , wife , children and a home . Then decided that I wanted a track T after seeing Tom Proofer track T in Rod and Custom . The Ford engine was wanting a rebuild and I was offered a Toyota Jap cut out for £250.00 with gear box with starter alternator and the rest of the stuff needed to drop it strait in . This was about 1985 . The show was Wheels Day . I like your T and have bin following your build .
     
  17. meangreen

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    I thought I recognized that nose. Back about 1978 or '79 I helped a friend build a frame for an Anglia, so i spent considerable time around the car and got familiar with its body lines. An original steel nose for an Anglia is very rare here in the USA. Anyway, it makes a nice grille shell for your T. It's a good thing the car survived; those Citroens are built like a tank!:eek:

    I imagine that Toyota engine really makes that lightweight car get on down the road. I've seen some of those engines used in Mini-Stock racing here and they are screamers. Very tough and reliable, too.:thumbsup:

    I remember Tom Prufer's Track-T. It was absolutely gorgeous. It was some of the inspiration for mine, too, although mine is based more on the old roadsters that terrorized the short tracks here in the '40s and early '50s. If you can get hold of a copy of Don Radbruch's book, "Roaring Roadsters", look for a California car called the Stockton Spitfire... Thanks for the compliments.:cool:
     
  18. BRUCE DYDA

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    Im new to the site here and dont want to come off as a complete know-it-all ,but have been building racecars for quite a long time and the bend in the rear wishbone is wrong without any support under the rear bend. Under hard brakeing the rear end will tend to rotate and the bend will collaspe as it pivots clockwise around the lower mount. Likewise under acceleration the bends will tend to straighten out causeing the pinion u-joint to rise.
     
  19. tea boy

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    <a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/jagoT_zpsbf17e6a3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/jagoT_zpsbf17e6a3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo jagoT_zpsbf17e6a3.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/harold_s_pics_19781_zps8bdd673d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/harold_s_pics_19781_zps8bdd673d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo harold_s_pics_19781_zps8bdd673d.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/IMG_0671_zps87188be3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/IMG_0671_zps87188be3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0671_zps87188be3.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/IMG_0671_zps87188be3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/IMG_0671_zps87188be3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0671_zps87188be3.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/IMG_0687_zps14e6d4c8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/IMG_0687_zps14e6d4c8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0687_zps14e6d4c8.jpg"/></a> The first pic with 2 T are Jagos the first is his which had a Ford strait 6 and the one behind was a customers rod . the black T is mine when I first had it on the road ( it was the 70s) the other is a mates who took over 30 years to finish cos he got a 34 coup which take up most of his time . Its got what we could a 4 banger . It has a cross flow hear, (carbs on one side exhaust on the other) 1600cc Ford from the 60s/70s with twin Weber's . The Ts over here then had small engines cos the price of petrol was expensive . Then we got a bit more brave and put Daimler v 8 in then (2500cc) . You cold get 30 miles to the gallon with the right Jag back axle. Then we got the Rove v8 3500cc ( Buick 215 an Aluminium engine or Aluminum as you corl it ). Now we have v8 Fords and Chevys and F - - k the price of petrol . We love the growl of the v8 .<a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/tbucket11.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/tbucket11.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tbucket11.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/Image046-2_zpsb29a5f88.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/Image046-2_zpsb29a5f88.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Image046-2_zpsb29a5f88.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s169.photobucket.com/user/diggerdriver/media/Image045-2_zps7d206490.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/diggerdriver/Image045-2_zps7d206490.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Image045-2_zps7d206490.jpg"/></a>
     
  20. meangreen

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    I take no offense, Bruce, and I don't think you come off as a know-it-all. I appreciate the observations and concerns. Like you, I have been building hot rods and race cars for years (since 1968) and I often give advice where I see a potential problem...:thumbsup:

    OK, to belay your concerns; first the tubing I used to make the rear radius rods is some fairly heavy-wall stuff and the bends are shallow and close to the ends where they can't flex easily. Secondly, although not visible in the above pictures, the brackets on the rear axle housing put the top bar of the radius rods in direct line with the housing so the applied stress is straight forward. All the rotational multiplied stress is on the bottom bar. Simply put another way, the car will move before the tubing bends. Third, it's a pretty lightweight car with a low torque engine. If I ever stuff a V-8 in this thing, hang some big meats on the rear wheels, and take it drag racing I might need to reinforce that bend, but with the horsepower/weight/configuration factors I have now it's fine. There's a much more detailed construction thread over on Club Hot Rod if you're interested in the details.:cool:

    Is the car in your avatar one of the original Ivo cars or a newer clone?:)
     






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