White T II

We don't name our cars, hence we have the White T, Blue T, 409 T. When a good friend of ours passed he left the White T to my wife so she could drive her own car to shows, cruises, etc. At the time it was painted red with a tan vinyl top, eventually we took off the top and painted it white with pink flames.

 

A neighbor recently put a Jag rear end in his T-bucket and it improved his ride so much that I decided to do the same for the White T, hence now White T II. I had an old 5" dropped axle from my previous Model A build, so I decided to try to incorporate that into the front end, and put a new (to us) Jag rear end at the back. Mounting the front axle would require making some custom bat wings and other custom brackets, so instead of trying to modify both ends of the old frame I decided to get a new frame from CCR (thanks Jerry and Diane). Below are some mock-up pictures of the first couple days' progress showing the Jag rear that I got from @lincolnuT and Bill Darr, thank you very much.



Lots of parts are going to come off the original T including the engine and trans and hopefully even the body. The body has been modified numerous times and we may not be able to use it, if that becomes the case it is back to CCR for a new long body.

 

Yep.

 

I owned an 8-10 man cabinet business for nearly 40 years. Still build a little furniture, bookcases, desks, etc. from time to time for my own house.

 

$1481.00. I had everything except the center section either plated or polished. Also $288.00 for having the bearings in the hubs pressed out before polishing and then getting them replaced and 4 new u-joints. CCR sells a bushing kit that adds a little more cost.

 

The front axle in the T II came already drilled, but I drilled the one it replaced myself. Here's a tip: If you are going to drill and chrome one of these, take it to the chromer and have it polished BEFORE drilling. Then bring it home, drill it and take it back for plating. If you drill first and then have it polished/chromed, the polishing process will mess up the crisp edges of the drilled holes. Don't ask me how I know.

 

Layout for front radius rods. .875 OD x .156 wall x .563 ID DOM steel tube. This will tap to 5/8-18 thread for heim joints and clevises.

 

There has been a lot of discussion lately about welders and welding in general, I thought I would share a couple of things that work for me, your mileage may vary. For out of position TIG welding, when it just isn't easy to use a foot pedal I have gone to a button control that fits onto the torch. There are many variations of this idea, some have wheels, some sliders, some moveable track, but for me all of those make the torch wobble while I am trying to adjust the amperage at the torch. The only one that works well for me is the button type. I got mine from TigControl.com but there are others on the market as well. Here is a YouTube video explaining what it is all about

and a picture of mine

 

And to continue the thought, for tungsten grinding I use a Harbor Freight circular saw sharpener diamond wheel, Harbor Freight item # 98862. This is a set with a grinding wheel for sharpening and a stone for polishing, all for the grand total of $9.00.

 

I had to make custom batwings for the White T II. The easy way for me was to draw them out in CAD, print multiple copies, glue the drawings to 3/8" steel bar and then cut them out on the band saw.
By using multiple copies of the same drawing, each glued to its own piece of steel, I got exact duplicates of the hole patterns and perimeter design.