Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

White T II

No I have not really looked to see if there is an adjustment......
When I mocked it up I didn't bother to tighten any of the set screws because I didn't want to drill the shaft(s) to stake them right then. Doing so solved the problem.
 
What do you know, it actually works and clears the headers. I wanted to copy @lincolnuT 's design but this steering column comes out of the firewall closer to the middle of the car than his does.

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I've read about mounting a rack in that manner but had never seen a picture of how it was mounted. It almost seems easier than using a box. I'm planning on using a rack on my car. After a lot of searching on the web, I believe it to be an early pinto rack. Just wish I could find out about the axle....
 
36679891_10215720847790602_8870938651316453376_n.jpgThis is how I did mine. I used a Unisteer Half Rack.....You will love it trust me....
 
The white foam in this picture does not have any contact cement on it, but if it did and I was going to stick a large piece of fabric to it I would cover the glued surface with 3/8" X 3/8" sticks as shown.

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Next I could lay on the fabric and position it as I wished without worrying about the two pieces sticking together out of alignment. Of course you can cut the foam much larger than necessary, which is shown here, but that is only because I didn't have the proper sized piece of foam for the picture. Normally I would cut the foam only slightly larger than the object piece. Your mileage may vary.

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This is an actual piece stuck to foam, the fabric is 76" x 15". I would not try to lay this thing out without the sticks. I have seen many people try, and yes most of the time they are successful, it is the one time you are not that makes you rethink the process.

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Just like doing laminate on a countertop. Certainly makes good sense. Use the stickers and save material. How many interiors have you sewn? I'm looking at doing my own since I have someone to assist. My brother used to do upholstery years ago.
 
How many interiors have you sewn?
This will be my fourth. It can be easy or difficult depending on how much detail you want to incorporate. For me, tuck-and-roll is the easiest.

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That's my plan. Tuck and roll. Of course that may change if I can get some guidance before/while doing it. I like your color scheme and the double diamond stitch. Very cool!
 
The double diamond stitch is one of my favorites. I sewed up for a customer a while back, and getting ready to another DD on a Econoline pickup. I also like the double tuck and roll. I wish now I had done my delivery with that instead of the regular.
 
I'm not sure what a double tuck and roll is. I like the old school fat deep pleats. Saw quite a few cars like that back in the day.
 
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Sample of both. The threads on the white match the color of the car. Lucky for me the diamonds were only a sample piece. See the mistake?
 
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Sample of both. The threads on the white match the color of the car. Lucky for me the diamonds were only a sample piece. See the mistake?
Tape slipped when setting it up? 1 row slightly off right? I think I'd probably mess up the double tuck. The lines would have to be stitched exact. I think it would show up too easily for me. Dark color and fat rolls. You think that could hide my mistakes? I like the diamonds but man you'd have to know what you're doing.
 
Diamonds with single stitches are easy once you watch a video how to lay the first one out. I made straight edges for each size diamond that I do. The double spaced takes to different straight edges. Just have to use the correct one at the correct time. Right now I am recovering 8 dining room chair for a customer that take 1288 button head decotacks. Not fun.
 
Here's how I sew diamonds. By no means is this the only way, and probably not the best way, but it works for me. I lay out a grid, in this case 2" x 3" , with the 2" measurement across the top and bottom and the 3" measurement down the sides and connect the dots with straight lines. It is easiest if you have the same number of spaces across the top and bottom as down the sides. In the picture I have 4 spaces across the top and bottom and 4 down the sides. That makes this piece 8" (4 x 2") wide (left to right) and 12" (4 x 3") tall.

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Next I run the white line along the split in my presser foot while I am stitching in the first direction.

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Flip the material around and run the white line along the split in the presser foot for the second stitch.

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And this is the result. The stitches would be straight if I had backed the material or adjusted the tension as I would if this was not just an example.

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For my money it doesn't get much easier. I would have backed the material with either 1/4" or 1/2" foam prior to sewing to give the diamonds a little depth. Of course you can vary what area of the presser foot to use as a guide to make the width between stitches greater or smaller, or use some other method of marking a reference point. To help with layout, make the piece bigger than you need and trim to size.
 
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People like it best if you wipe off the white lines. I should have mentioned that the white pencil I used is a Stabilo #8052 (Amazon). Wipes right off with plain water if you're not in a hurry like I was, and a clean rag might have helped as well.

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Diamonds with single stitches are easy once you watch a video how to lay the first one out. I made straight edges for each size diamond that I do. The double spaced takes to different straight edges. Just have to use the correct one at the correct time. Right now I am recovering 8 dining room chair for a customer that take 1288 button head decotacks. Not fun.
Wait, it says you're retired...just kidding. that's a lot of tacks. I remember my dad doing a chair with tacks, not for me..I'll stick to wrecking my wifes sewing machine.
 
Here's how I sew diamonds. By no means is this the only way, and probably not the best way, but it works for me. I lay out a grid, in this case 2" x 3" , with the 2" measurement across the top and bottom and the 3" measurement down the sides and connect the dots with straight lines. It is easiest if you have the same number of spaces across the top and bottom as down the sides. In the picture I have 4 spaces across the top and bottom and 4 down the sides. That makes this piece 8" (4 x 2") wide (left to right) and 12" (4 x 3") tall.

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Next I run the white line along the split in my presser foot while I am stitching in the first direction.

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Flip the material around and run the white line along the split in the presser foot for the second stitch.

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And this is the result. The stitches would be straight if I had backed the material or adjusted the tension as I would if this was not just an example.

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For my money it doesn't get much easier. I would have backed the material with either 1/4" or 1/2" foam prior to sewing to give the diamonds a little depth. Of course you can vary what area of the presser foot to use as a guide to make the width between stitches greater or smaller, or use some other method of marking a reference point. To help with layout, make the piece bigger than you need and trim to size.
The way you explain it, it makes it seem easy. I'm guessing the hard part is keeping the lines straight? Is that the part that would make you an upholsterer, making sure the lines are straight?
 
People like it best if you wipe off the white lines. I should have mentioned that the white pencil I used is a Stabilo #8052 (Amazon). Wipes right off with plain water if you're not in a hurry like I was, and a clean rag might have helped as well.

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I look at your guys work and feel like in in the deep end about to go under. I guess some of it is my budget but a lot of it is just being a newbie....I have much to learn...
 
That is the motor that my Sailrite Fabricator has. I also have the Sailrite LSZ-1 that I added the updated servo motor. What a difference it made. I use this refills for marking on vinyl.
(Silver Fabric Marker Textile Ink Refill) They work great and will show up on about any color of vinyl. The ink cleans off with a sponge and water with just a couple drop of liquid soap. Do not use them on leather.
 
That is the motor that my Sailrite Fabricator has. I also have the Sailrite LSZ-1 that I added the updated servo motor. What a difference it made. I use this refills for marking on vinyl.
(Silver Fabric Marker Textile Ink Refill) They work great and will show up on about any color of vinyl. The ink cleans off with a sponge and water with just a couple drop of liquid soap. Do not use them on leather.
I looked up the LSZ-1 on the web. $99.00 ? Is that a viable machine for upholstery? Just that it looks smallish. I wouldn't mind looking into it if I could use it to finish my interior with it. I remember the big old thing my brother had when he used to do a lot of dentist chairs. It looked beefy. Of course that was many years ago. I think it was called faff. I'll have to ask him about it.
I'm looking at marine vinyl. Do you guys think that's the right track? Thought of it since it's good in the sun and rain condition.
 

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