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1996 Vortec 350

smokeyco75

Member
Okay folks, like the title says I have a Vortec 350 for my Bucket. I am wondering how the stock roller cam will work with a carburetor? Anyone have any experience? I have a hydraulic flat tapped cam that I can use but if this roller cam will work okay with a carburetor I just assume leave it in there. What say you?
 
Okay folks, like the title says I have a Vortec 350 for my Bucket. I am wondering how the stock roller cam will work with a carburetor? Anyone have any experience? I have a hydraulic flat tapped cam that I can use but if this roller cam will work okay with a carburetor I just assume leave it in there. What say you?
I have a carb on a 305 ho vortec engine in one of my cars that runs ok, but for the most part, it's not a good idea. Here's why, the ecm is constantly making air fuel and timing adjustments and the cam is designed to operate in those peramiters. It's virtually impossible to imitate this with vacuum advance, etc. Depending on your desired performance, it may be more trouble tuning it than it's worth. With that being said, one could assemble as is and plan on a cam swap as a update later in the life of the build. I do know of several examples that went wrong, poor performance, mainly timing related, preignition, etc... do some research before investing in any parts, imho. As for going from roller to flat tappet, I don't know from experience, but flat tappet cams are held in place by the force and friction of the lifters and the lifter bores are designed with this in mind in engines designed for flat tappet cams. Roller cams are not this way. I would be apprehensive to try it. I know roller cams are pricey, but the lifters should be able to be reused and that's half the cost. Roller is better and your springs are also designed for it. Again, do your research with a cam manufacturer to save some potential aggregation. I know of one specific example where the builder didn't want to spend any money on the valve train and just wanted a smooth running cruiser, so he bought a good running stock fuel injected engine, spent a fist full on an intake, carb, and distributor, but ended up with a timing computer and a hefty investment of time and cash to get it to run right. The issue was timing. That was a 360 Mopar, but the same sort of issues may come up.
 
I have a carb on a 305 ho vortec engine in one of my cars that runs ok, but for the most part, it's not a good idea. Here's why, the ecm is constantly making air fuel and timing adjustments and the cam is designed to operate in those peramiters. It's virtually impossible to imitate this with vacuum advance, etc. Depending on your desired performance, it may be more trouble tuning it than it's worth. With that being said, one could assemble as is and plan on a cam swap as a update later in the life of the build. I do know of several examples that went wrong, poor performance, mainly timing related, preignition, etc... do some research before investing in any parts, imho. As for going from roller to flat tappet, I don't know from experience, but flat tappet cams are held in place by the force and friction of the lifters and the lifter bores are designed with this in mind in engines designed for flat tappet cams. Roller cams are not this way. I would be apprehensive to try it. I know roller cams are pricey, but the lifters should be able to be reused and that's half the cost. Roller is better and your springs are also designed for it. Again, do your research with a cam manufacturer to save some potential aggregation. I know of one specific example where the builder didn't want to spend any money on the valve train and just wanted a smooth running cruiser, so he bought a good running stock fuel injected engine, spent a fist full on an intake, carb, and distributor, but ended up with a timing computer and a hefty investment of time and cash to get it to run right. The issue was timing. That was a 360 Mopar, but the same sort of issues may come up.

IF they[Companies] make cams for the LS engines that will use a carb, and I think some do, that should be the only change you should have to make other than carb and intake system. Of course you will still need an ECM and wiring harness unless the aftermarket companies make an HEI distributor that will work with the engine. JMTCW
 
If you haven't wired the car, call one of the harness makers and ask if they have a harness that allows for a carb conversion. Or get a conventional harness and run the carb and manifold conventionally. Or if you do the last suggestion, then call Mike Jones (see engine talk ?) and get a cam from him. He knows his shit.
Heres the drill.
Secure the manifold & carb for the engine.
Reuse the roller lifters (if good, probably are). HOW MANY MILES ON THE ENGINE ???
Call Mike Jones and get what he recommends for a cam. Give him ALLL the specs. Don't lie or BS him on this. Will only be bad for you. Should only need a cam if everything else is o.k. DON'T OVER-THINK THIS.
Why bother with the old wiring loom & ECM. Did you even get the old loom? Do you have a replacement distributer just to stab in and run?

Remember - IT'S A T BUCKET!
Geez are you gonna run air conditioning, abs, power steering, etc. ? Is this for a family sedan?, Your Mom's car?

You don't need no stinkin' ECM to get down the road.

John

P.S.

Here is the Mike Jones info.

Mike Jones
Jones Cam Designs
Denver, NC
jonescams @bellsouth.net
Jones Cams
1 704 489 2449
 
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You can buy an HEI distributor and replace the gear with one compatible to the roller cam. Summit Racing has all of that.
 
Are you within reasonable driving distance of an automotive swap meet this weekend ? Got to have dozens to choose from.
As Bill said, just make sure you change the distributor drive gear to one compatible with the roller cam gear.

John
 

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