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327 with 3 deuce set up??

Sean Frayser

New Member
I have a 23 t-bucket my father willed to me. I don't know much about it. It has a 327 with 3 deuces(barry grant), double hump heads, turbo 350, HEI distributor. It was running terrible and I messed with the float adjustment. I got it where it was running great....now its running like crap. Not sure what the problem is? It has a Airtex fuel pump and I thought it may be sending too much fuel. Its rated to send between 6-9 psi. Its backfiring thru the exhaust and stalling at stoplights. When I get on it and kick the 2nd and third 2 barrel in it sputters and spits. Any advice?
 
Find out who nearby knows how to tune carburetors. Few shops do these days since all vehicles are EFI. Tell us where you live and someone here might give you some ideas or might even be able to help. Based on a few threads here not long ago it is very difficult, if not impossible, to do a proper diagnostic on this forum. Might not be carbs. Could be ignition, timing, internal engine issues. Get some on-hands help from a local expert and best of luck to you.
 
Well I just found something else. Not related to my problem but it appears that the rear main is leaking. There is a chrome shield between the engine and tranny and oil is dripping out of the slots. Not a lot of oil but oil none the less. Its enough that its getting on my wheelie bars. I may just pull the motor and either rebuild or put another in. Opinions?
 
Instead of offering my opinion, which generally tends to wind people up, let me just ask a couple of questions and point out a couple of deficiencies.

You have an unknown quantity on your hands, with respect to the tuning problem. You, quite rightly identify excessive fuel pressure as one (but only one, mind) possible cause of the problem. Have you actually checked fuel pressure? Have you put a timing light on it, to see where the timing is? Have you looked down the throats of the carbs, to see what is happening at idle and when you crack the throttle? If not, why not? We're not there, so there is no way we can fill in all the blanks. That is your responsibility.

Then you say you have an oil leak at the rear of the engine. Yes, that could be a rear main seal leaking. Or a rear intake seal leaking. Or a rear cam plug leaking. Have you actually removed the dust cover, to see if you might be able to determine exactly what is actually leaking? If not, why not? The only way you are ever going to learn what is actually leaking is to actually start looking for the leak. Again, we're not there, so we have no way of looking for you. The job of identifying the source of the leak is your responsibility.

What leaves me scratching my head is you may have a couple of very simple issues that you need to address, but you are already in high gear, wanting opinions on whether or not you should rebuild/replace the engine. Have you considered lifting up the radiator cap and just driving a new car underneath it?

What I am reading in your posts is that you really haven't done much of anything, to ascertain what is causing these problems. What you need to read in this post is that it is impossible for us to diagnose your problems without complete details. Do all of us a favor, by reading this post, before asking for any further help. In order for us to assist you in dialing in your car, you are going to have to recognize, realize and accept you are the only one who can lay either eyes or hands on the car, so in asking for help as you have, you are asking the impossible.

I know this sounds harsh, but how can you expect us to help you, until you are willing to start helping yourself? Do your homework and you will likely discover the source of these issues. If you still can't sort it, you will at least have enough details to provide us, so that we can give you some assistance. Until then, we all have the same problem with spinning our wheels.
 
Ok first off I don't want to replace my motor. I have done all kinds of research on Barry Grant carbs and there is much out there especially the 2 barrel. I was just trying to get a little advice on where to start? There is no oil on the top side of the motor. It IS the rear main seal. I pulled the dust cover off and its seeping out of the bottom of the crank area. The only reason I thought about rebuilding is if I have to pull it out why not? I know very little about the internals of the motor other than it is a 68 327 with a HP range from 250-375. It has double hump heads but don't know if its the 194 or 202 valves. I have no idea about the cam specs. My dad was old school where he set the timing by ear and usually was right on the money. I pulled the plugs and they look good maybe a little rich but not bad. Plug wires are good. Im getting a fuel pressure regulator to eliminate that. Im also going to get a 6a box to help with fire. Once that is done I should have an idea if the carbs are off or not. I emailed Demon to see if they could give me guidance on float set and jet sizes for my current setup. I appreciate your comments but didn't expect to kicked in the jimmie.
 
No one has kicked you in the jimmie. But neither did we expect to be required to milk every last bit of detail out of you. We used to have a crystal ball around here, but someone borrowed and has forgotten to return it, which means we can no longer diagnose engine problems from afar without very specific details. We're not much good at predicting the future or turning lead into gold, either. Look at the paucity of information in your initial posts, compared to the details you are now providing. Initially, you said you had oil leaking out of a dust cover, but now you've removed the cover and think you've identified the source of the leak.

If it was me, pulling the engine would be the last item on my list, along with rebuilds or replacements. Have you stuck a vacuum gauge on it, along with running a compression check? No need to rebuild/replace a solid motor, just because of an oil leak, is there? If the motor still has good compression and can carry solid vacuum numbers, why not invest in a pan gasket and a rear main seal, fix the leak and then drive on? Does that answer your question?

As for setting timing by ear, and meaning no disrespect to your father (or his jimmie, for that matter), let me ask you again - have you put a timing light on it? Sorry, but a degree or two of timing can make a tremendous difference and I'm yet to find the fellow who can 'hear' that difference.
 
Now you've gone & done it.. no 3 pages of speculation , sketchy, if not downright false info , absurd theories ..... now what am I to do without my daily chuckles to read ... SHEESH !!!! talk about spoiling all the fun :whistling::p

dave
 
WELCOME to the site!

If you are wondering about the response, we have had a few post here recently that went off the walls, due to a lack of info from the poster. Or info that changed as the days went on. Or simply because we were trying to help someone that would ask for info, disappear for weeks, then pop back up with a different set of items. Hence the response about vague info.

As for your engine.

Personally I would do all the basic stuff first.

- check plugs/wires/cap
- check compression
- check fuel pressure
- set timing
- set fuel pressure (if you can)
- set your float level
- set your idle mixtures
- hook up the vacuum gauge and see what it tells you. (there is a very good post in the tech section about using the vacuum gauge)
- worry about linkages and secondary throttle openings till you got the basics sorted out.

As for the rear main, you can change it out by just dropping the pan, I have done mine a couple of times to finally get it to seal. Make sure you get the good felpro blue rear main seal to replace yours, going cheap just means you are pulling the pan again. When you do the rear main, you will be able to see the condition of the bearings as you will be pulling a cap when you do the seal.

The 327 is one damn fine engine!
 
:notworthy: Damn, you mean we're without our 'Crystal Ball'?o_O:whistling:
 
If you know some history on the car, it might help in your goals. Is it a rag that never ran right and never finished, or is a nice ride that was enjoyed and set aside? Hopefully it is the latter. If so you need to stop trying to adjust everything on the engine. Carbs do not get out of tune without some kind of change introduced. Hopefully you see where I am going with this. You have to be able to interpret what you see and hear from the engine. If you cannot, be able to relate the information to someone that can advise. You cannot give too much info. Glad to hear you have acquired such a sweet engine combo.
 
We need to also know if the car has sat for any length of time. Also, is it points and condenser, or HEI? Lets also throw out there....our old motors do not take to the E85 worth a damn either....make sure you got good gas.

I thought I saw that Crystal Ball beside that Keg we had last year in the back of the shop....
 
Welcome! If the plugs look good and it's not a smoke generating mosquito fogger, there is no way I would just rebuild the engine simply because it was out. Why take a perfectly good engine and turn it into a can of worms? I would replace the rear main as mentioned and run it! Now, if you WANT to rebuild it because you are curious and enjoy that sort of thing, that's a different story. Have at it!
 
Now you've gone & done it.. no 3 pages of speculation , sketchy, if not downright false info , absurd theories ..... now what am I to do without my daily chuckles to read ... SHEESH !!!! talk about spoiling all the fun
Damn, you mean I kicked you in the jimmie, too?? ;) Yeah, I decided to nip this one in the bud, before things got out of hand. "Well, if you would change the air in the left-rear tire and then verify the level of the turn signal fluid, about the only other thing would be to (and this one is my new, personal favorite) adjust the idle mixture screws in to richen the mixture."

As for the rear main, you can change it out by just dropping the pan, I have done mine a couple of times to finally get it to seal. Make sure you get the good felpro blue rear main seal to replace yours, going cheap just means you are pulling the pan again.
And when you put the new seal in, offset the parting line by a few degrees, so the parting line of the seal is not in line with the parting line between the cap and block. And put the tiniest dab of silicone on the ends of one seal half.

Who ever took the Crystal Ball needs to return it ASAP.
Yeah, because reading these damnable tea leaves is a real kick in my jimmie! :roflmao: Maybe we need to see if we can get a volume discount from one of those 1-900-dial-a-psychic lines??
 
It was running terrible and I messed with the float adjustment. I got it where it was running great....now its running like crap.

Modern gas really sucks. If this car set up for a while (more than a month or two), you should consider a complete disassembly and cleaning/rebuild of the carbs. That might not be the problem, but you won't know until you've done it. Once that's out of the way, you can go on to the other usual culprits. FWIW, adding a Holley regulator to my 350 SBC made a big improvement. I didn't bother with a gauge; there were enough symptoms of overpressure that I knew the regulator was needed.

Jack
 
Damn, you mean I kicked you in the jimmie, too?? ;) Yeah, I decided to nip this one in the bud, before things got out of hand. "Well, if you would change the air in the left-rear tire and then verify the level of the turn signal fluid, about the only other thing would be to (and this one is my new, personal favorite) adjust the idle mixture screws in to richen the mixture."

Mike.....Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, don't give out the tuning secrets! :whistling: I like sending folks off to find the thread stretchers....
 

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