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350 small block help?

Daredevil7884

New Member
So I posted my intro not more then a few hours ago & I already picked up a complete chevy 350 small block. I was wondering besides the normal everyday tools, what else would anyone suggest that will make this engine takedown easier?

Thanks
-Doug
 
Daredevil7884 said:
So I posted my intro not more then a few hours ago & I already picked up a complete chevy 350 small block. I was wondering besides the normal everyday tools, what else would anyone suggest that will make this engine takedown easier?

Thanks
-Doug

An Engine stand is handy (be carefull of the cheapo's, not too stable)
A puller to remove the Vibration Dampner ( may be able to rent one or get one on lone from Auto parts stores
Set of Sockets, a long handle is handy for breaking loose head bolts.
A couple pieces of rubber hose to put over the connecting rod bolts while you slide the pistons out so you don't ding up the crank throws...
You may want to rent or borrow a Cylinder ring ridge cutter to remove the ridge from the top of the cylinders before you knock out the pistons......
Make sure you mark the caps on the rods so you don't get em mixed up.
If you are going to reuse the cam and lifters ,keep them marked for the same lobes...Use an old Egg carton or somethin to hold em, mark the FRONT so you know where they go......
I'm sure theres more, can't think right now, I need a cold one......"BH":cool:
 
daredevis a rebuild is kinda expensive and difficult unless u are an experienced wrench. u might contact city motor supply about rebuilding ur engine or trading it in on a long block. a short block is around 350 bucks and a long block around 650. they have warranty and even will build to ur specs. just a suggestion. oh yea if u want ur block rebuilt they will have u leave it and return in 5-6 hours and they will have it ready to go with warranty
 
MDANIELSON55 said:
daredevis a rebuild is kinda expensive and difficult unless u are an experienced wrench. u might contact city motor supply about rebuilding ur engine or trading it in on a long block. a short block is around 350 bucks and a long block around 650. they have warranty and even will build to ur specs. just a suggestion. oh yea if u want ur block rebuilt they will have u leave it and return in 5-6 hours and they will have it ready to go with warranty


Mike, I believe Daredevil stated he was a student at an Automotive Tech School. So re-building his own motor will be a learning experience. Plus, he's in Pennslyvania and shipping a short block or long block from Texas to there would defeat the savings.
 
MDANIELSON55 said:
daredevis a rebuild is kinda expensive and difficult unless u are an experienced wrench. u might contact city motor supply about rebuilding ur engine or trading it in on a long block. a short block is around 350 bucks and a long block around 650. they have warranty and even will build to ur specs. just a suggestion. oh yea if u want ur block rebuilt they will have u leave it and return in 5-6 hours and they will have it ready to go with warranty

Thanks but I wanna do it myself. I'm not looking to complete this project quick, I just want something to do in my spare time & I'm also not looking to go super performance with it. As said in my intro I have been into imports, I've had 2 Honda CRX's & a Nissan 240sx. I felt it was time to try something new & work with something new.

But again thanks anyway. I Appreiciate the suggestion.
 
Harmonic balancer installer (rent it) So many people try to pound it on not good for balancer pulling it on with bolt can strip crankshaft.
 
Daredevil7884 said:
...As said in my intro I have been into imports, I've had 2 Honda CRX's & a Nissan 240sx. I felt it was time to try something new & work with something new...

Well, SAE wrenches and sockets are going to be handy! :eek:

Sorry... couldn't help myself... other than typical hand tools... you will need access to a harmonic balancer puller, a gear puller, a torque wrench, and of course some assembly lube and Plastigage.

Also, if you are not going with a roller cam, you will need to add some cam break-in additive as well... that's very important! I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know, so I'll just stop now... :confused:
 
The guys have just about covered everything. Also, plastic zip lock bags and a permanent marker are invaluable, as is a notebook with drawings of how everything goes back together. Have your Wife, Girlfriend, or someone else with clean hands sitting there so they can write info on the baggies before you put the greasy parts in them.

I usually label one bag "Rt side head bolts", another "Left side head bolts", another "intake manifold bolts." etc. Put the baggies in a box for safe keeping......there are little Gremlins in every garage in American and their job is to hide bolts. No matter how careful you are, you will end up missing something when rebuilding time comes along.......I guarantee it. :D

If you plan on reusing any parts like your cam, the lifters have to go back with the lobe it was riding on.......so do the pushrods, and ideally the rocker arms. I take a cardboard box and poke 16 small holes in it and stick the pushrods into the holes and label each one where it went. I mark the box "front of engine" and set the pushrods in order just as they came out. I do the same thing with the lifters, but I use a plastic sorter box with compartments in it so I can keep them separated and in order.

The auto stores sell fancy plastic trays to set all of that stuff in, but I have never bought one yet........gonna have to do that sometime.

You will also want to note the position of the rod and main bearing caps BEFORE you remove them. They have to go a certain way. I use an electric etching pencil and write something like " #1" on one with an arrow pointing to the front of the block. Everyone on here, including me, has reinstalled a bearing cap backwards at one time or another, so you have to be careful.

A digital camera documenting every step of the teardown is a great tool. You THINK you will remember how it all goes back together, YOU WON'T!! :lol:

If you get stuck, let us know and we'll try to help you out.

Don

Oh, when you are removing the cam, or reinstalling it, screw a very long bolt into the end of it to act as a handle so you can withdraw and reinstall it without nicking the soft cam bearings with a sharp lobe corner. Go slow in every step.
 
Also, as the guys mentioned, there are some excellent books and videos out there on this subject.......even Walden Books and others have them on the shelf. But in the meantime, here is a free site to get you started:

1972 350 Chevrolet Pickup Engine - Tech - Build Your First Engine - Chevy High Performance Magazine

Autozone and Advanced Discount Auto Parts will loan you the specialized tools you need free of charge, with only a deposit. No sense for the occasional engine rebuilder to invest all that money if he doesn't need to.

Don
 
Well to make things "easier" an impact wrench. Makes quick work of the head bolts, exhaust bolts, intake bolts :D

A very long screw driver or a pry bar to break the heads/intake loose.

Dry sweep to clean up all the fluid you thought you drained out.

Things you do not want to forget.

- stamp each rod and cap with the cylinder it came out of. (your machine shop will not like you if you do not do this step)

- keep track of which cylinder lifters, pushrods, rockers etc are associated with, the egg carton is a good idea, a plain old card board box works as well.

Read the articles posted, its not a hard build just have to watch the little things.
 
Like all the others have said. The rod caps and main caps are not marked from the factory but MUST go back exactly as they cam out of the engine. Rod caps back on the same rod and the mains back in the same location and the main caps will go on backwards. Most main caps will have an arrow on them pointing toward the front but not all ways. So be sure to mark them. We used a center punch to mark the mains and the block so we knew which way they went.:D
 
If you cant find bolt to screw into the end of the cam, no worries, use the cam gear from the timing set, it makes a dandy handle. The engine assy lube I use is Lubriplate...good stuff. I also have a set of numbered punches or stamps for marking main caps and rods. The smaller set of handtools from Sears is a good start (60 something pieces). Also, get a "dead blow" hammer from harbor freight (to install and remove pistons and knock crap loose), LOTS of plastic bags, a sharpie marker and a notebook. Plastigauge is good for setting clearances. Also, find someone who can loan you a set of inside and outside micrometers. Some posterboard to make templates helps too. Don't over complicate things and you'll do just fine.

Good Luck and ask questions...WITH PICS
 
when your assembling you need a good torque wrench, and a 1 inch travel dial indicator.. they'll probably be the most expensive tools you'll need.. a crank socket is nice to have also..
 
Well im suprised between my friend & I we have most of the items everyone has mentioned. a few we do not we will be getting. Thanks to everyone for the help so far. As soon as we begin, pictures will be taken :D

Doug
 
I'm in the middle of tearing my Son's 455 Olds engine down so we can repaint it. We built it about 3 years ago but never fired it up, and now he wants to paint it a different color, so we are going to strip all the old paint off. To get the best job possible, we are going to strip it to the bare block and use paint stripper and wire wheels.

I started tearing it apart yesterday, and thought the attached pictures might help you. Although it is an Olds, all engines are basically the same as far as tear down.

Don

Starting the teardown...........

dansmotorteardown001.jpg


Once intake is removed this is what you will see..............

dansmotorteardown003.jpg


If you are reusing parts, keep them in the order they were in originally....

dansmotorteardown004.jpg


Lifters will come out after you remove the pushrods.......some need help due to buildup on the base...........

dansmotorteardown005.jpg


A hub puller will remove the harmonic balancer/dampener...............

dansmotorteardown006.jpg


An engine stand makes work so much easier.................

dansmotorteardown008.jpg


Take detailed pictures or drawings of how stuff goes back in...............

dansmotorteardown010.jpg


After top end is removed you can flip engine to start removing the crank, rods, etc..................

dansmotorteardown009.jpg


A long bolt inserted into cam helps you remove it without nicking any of the cam bearings or lobes on cam................

dansmotorteardown012.jpg
 
Hey Doug,

Congrats on the Chevy 350 find! In addition to basic tools, consider getting an engine hoist for lifting, an engine stand for stability, and an impact wrench for efficient bolt removal. Also, a torque wrench, piston ring compressor, and good labeling will make your takedown smoother. Best of luck with your project!
 
I would strongly suggest researching machine shop costs, parts costs, tool costs, and honestly evaluate your mechanical abilities then compare to the cost of a crate or reman engine... stuff ain’t cheap anymore... does it need rebuilt? Would a solid used engine with some bolt on goodies suffice? Lots of variables to compare.
 

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