454?
- Thread starter Slo2
- Start date
Rooster, Thats what im hoping for. I am part owner of the largest tuner car forums in NJ, and Im tired of all these imports talkin trash. They need to come, so the Rods can show em what fast is. hahahaha Im a trader. I love Rods too much. I mean imports have nothing to offer over a Rail.
Mike
NJTuners.com
Mike
NJTuners.com
If you want a BB build it with one. My car has a blown big block. It does not need to be blown right away, drive it for a while get used to it . My car had a carb on it for 2 or 3 years after I put the big block in it, the car ran very respectable that way and was just as streetable as today with the 671 blower. My feelings here are build it with a naturally asprirated engine and then go big if you think you really need it. As many others will tell you that is a lot of stuff for a bucket. Things change real fast when you start putting 8 lbs boost on a big block 
but it is fun !! Good luck on the build .
but it is fun !! Good luck on the build .
FastEddie59
New Member
Helo Slo2, Thanks for the update. If you haven't driven one you're in for a treat. I was surprised when I rode in mine for the first time, nothing like a full bodied car that will spin, run sideways and all sorts of stuff, you just point it straight and mash and it goes, low weight makes all the difference. It's like driving an oversized go cart for the most part. As for the rice rockets, they annoy the heck out me, they never expect an old gray haired fart in that cute little car to run like that. Mine has a fairly stout 331" SBC in it that is around 550 to 600 hp, tuned more for hp than torque, RPM commented that's a street legal race car for the most part, and is very drivable and hooks great in the M/T ET street tires. It's very predictable and don't get me wrong, it goes! The only reason I mentioned the big inch small blocks is they make a ton of power in a small package, I know several kids around here that have 434, 454, and even 481 inch SBC's in their 10.5 outlaw cars that weigh around 3000 to 3500 pounds and run mid 5's in the eighth and thats a 8.50 quarter mile and you can guess how that would go in a under 2000 pound car! The big advantage to that would be the weight off of the front end, an aluminum headed small block would weigh close to 300 pounds less than a iron headed big block and these motors come real close to making the same power as a big block. You could do like I did on my 496 and be able to sort it out with an intake and carb and install the blower once you are comfortable with it and have everything working like it should, it would probably run a 9 second quarter without the blower. Good luck on finding what you are looking for and there are some great deals out there to be had at the moment if you look around, Eddie
OldredT, the BB is not out, just sidelined for now. I will have one one day. RPM and Eddie, I have a Tuner site as I have said, And I talk trash about them allI can. But Im starting to hear"wheres this imaginary T bucket, and atleast Y can see my car". So now is the time to post a lil build thread that just says heres a picture of a block. The build has started. Then BAM, hey tuner friends, Heres the ride. Lets go!!!
Dont get me wrong, My buddy has a 700hp Evo, and its awd. Thing is fast, FOR NOW, hahahahaha.
RPM, keep up shuttin the rice down. Make us proud. and thanks for the pm's Eddie, I heard someone say driving a T is like driving a 302ci monster Miata. Its sick, but you just cant get enough of it.
Dont get me wrong, My buddy has a 700hp Evo, and its awd. Thing is fast, FOR NOW, hahahahaha.
RPM, keep up shuttin the rice down. Make us proud. and thanks for the pm's Eddie, I heard someone say driving a T is like driving a 302ci monster Miata. Its sick, but you just cant get enough of it.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
RPM said:
Yeeaaa Ron, throw down on 'em, every chance you get over there in TN!!!!!
I've got a little hotrod I bust out here about once a month........go thru a couple of the local auto parts places on friday and Sat. nites, if-I-can. I get to stomp on a riceburner about every 4 or 5 weeks.
Its an old 55 Chevy Gasser with a all origional all aluminum 'Motion Performance' Phase III 454. 1972 Version.......dyno'ed at 750 HP on gas, single carb....fenderwell headers....10" Banana torque converter, TCI full race trans., Ford 9 In.w/ 4.55's, 33" M&H RaceMasters.........made the ass buy me a burger!........somehow he thought I was messin' with him! Ha! I take my food seriously! Hee-hee.............
CARS34PHORD
Member
I had a blowin 509 b/b chevy in my bonneville 34 ford coupe. Here is what i found out about blowin fuel engines #1 carbs will never keep up with the amount of fuel needed when i run race gas . Even with fuel a low compression works. Use fuel to cool the cylinders 110 l/c cams . I run 204 mph with a 3800lb car 509 cu in with enderly injected 15%over 6:71 7.1 comp engine with oval port heads. Set record in aa/classic fuel alt in 2006(196.26 avg.) with my junkyard engine. With 2.55 rear gear 200+ is 5500 rpm. Built engine for a very flat torque curve 1000 lbs @2200 to 6200 rpm. Build the bottomend like a battle ship an run it.
Hot Rod Todd
Member
I had a blowin 509 b/b chevy in my bonneville 34 ford coupe..... Use fuel to cool the cylinders 110 l/c cams . I run 204 mph with a 3800lb car 509 cu in with enderly injected 15%over 6:71 7.1 comp engine with oval port heads..... Built engine for a very flat torque curve 1000 lbs @2200 to 6200 rpm..[/QUOTE]
That sounds like a bunch of fun. Can you tell us what the cam specs were?
and will an engine running a 114 l/c cam run hotter or colder than one with 110 l/c
Thanks
'Todd
That sounds like a bunch of fun. Can you tell us what the cam specs were?
and will an engine running a 114 l/c cam run hotter or colder than one with 110 l/c
Thanks
'Todd
CARS34PHORD
Member
Havent been here for a bit. Lobe centers on cam was 112 to 114 will work . I wanted to push some fuel through the engine to help cool the cylinder cam was 280deg. 230 @.050 600 lift roller style dont have a lot of spec, donny johanssen at chet herbert cams said here this will work best i do upholstery he grinds cams. So he know how to do it need a great came give him a call
Hotrod46
Member
Slo2 said:
I think you're going about it backwards. If you want a big block, then go for it, but build your car first. Keep in mind while you're building that you may go with a blower and be sure to leave room for the blower drive, as well as building in things like a high flow fuel system and extra heavy duty driveline.
Get a decent running stock take-out BB motor to get started. Drive the car for a while to get used to it and then add the blower as a winter project.
The motor you want is going to be very expensive (you akready knew that) and it'll just be sitting on an engine stand for months while you get the car built. If you get tired of the project, you'll be able to get more of your money back if you have a driveable car, instead of a motor on a stand.
Take my advice, the blown motor WILL be fun, but these cars don't need them to be a blast to drive. Also, spending money on a new engine for a running car doesn't hurt as bad as spending it on a car in the shop that doesn't seem to do anything but eat money.
Build your car to be safe and go have some fun!!
Mike
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