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A Bit More Progress

Excellent plan.
 
Wow! Very nice work. I thought I had a scratch build that was extensive, but yours is awesome. Excellent detail work.
 
Thanks guys.

I got the jamb perimeter pieces fitted and fixed in place. The next step was these vertical pieces.

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Not very exciting, but I'll show how I made them.

These vertical pieces needed to be a consistant 1/4" in thickness and smooth on both sides. So I used scraps of 1/4" MDF on a waxed laminated panel.

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8 layers of 1 1/2 oz. mat is just a bit thicker than 1/4".

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While the layups were still wet, I laid another waxed panel on it along with some weight.

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Perfect 1/4" thickness.

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Quick note:

Laminated panels make a great backing for glassing. Even unwaxed, glass will not stick to it.

Here I used a piece of laminate to shape the rear lip of the body back in 2012.

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WOW!!! You never cease to amaze me with your excellent craftsmanship! I can't wait to see the finished product.

Jim
 
I agree with Jim. This project has been fun to watch and I look for to the completion!
 
Every time I go through your build I am amazed. It takes me an hour to figure out how to scratch my a$$ and when I look at what you do it just blows me away. If you would have recorded this on DVD you could sell enough of them to pay for your build. What a talent you have. I look at some of the molds and I'm just lost. Keep the pics coming.
 
Thanks Rubicon.

Well Gerry was right.

I am already wondering what 'touches' you will do on the engine......

I've been side tracked on my doors 'cause I got a bug to make a carb scoop. The design is a real hybrid between a Harwood,a shot gun and a Hilborn. Seems to go with the car pretty well.

I started with computer drawings. I only have PowerPoint. But it's always worked for me.

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Then started sling'n body filler.

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Then it was time for marking the slash cut in the front.

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Parting boards.

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And molding the top and bottom.

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And here's where I'm at today.

The two halves will be epoxied together. I still have to carve a 1/4" wide by 1/8" deep groove at the front to accept the screen backing.

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Oh, I better mention that I mocked this up early on with the base I made to make sure it fit over a 3" tall filter.

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This whole project is pure eye candy. I am so impressed with all the ideas and labor to make this ride come true.
 
Thanks guys.

I've also been working on a head mounted bracket to mount this JEGS coolant recovery tank.

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It'll mount here on the driver's side and be fed up there at the manifold filler.
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The easiest and most effective way for me to carve this out of 3/4" aluminum was to cut the dado on the table saw first while it was still a rectangular piece, drill all of the holes, and hog out what I could on the band saw and drill press.

Then the design was tacked up all in steel per the drilled aluminum plate.

With it was all sandwiched together, MDF with the 3/8" T-nuts, the aluminum plate and the steel jig, I finished it off by using a carbide pattern router bit on the router table.

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I'll give the corners a bit of easing the polish it up to match my alternator bracket.
 
Superb, just superb.
 
Not only unbelievable fiberglass skills but now we get to see the metal working skills. All I can say is, WOW!

Jim
 
A man of many talents!

Jim
 
The problem I have with using a router and say a 1/2" flush trimming bit or mortising bit is clogging the flutes with aluminum. WD40 helps keep them clear, but what do you use?
 
The problem I have with using a router and say a 1/2" flush trimming bit or mortising bit is clogging the flutes with aluminum. WD40 helps keep them clear, but what do you use?

I didn't have any galling until the end when the bit really started to heat up. It stayed fairly sharp, but the bearing lost all it's grease and was toast.

This is my go to stuff for cutting, tapping, counter boring or anything. I did have to use it toward the end.

It doesn't leave an oily mess and I found by accident that it's awesome for removing the adhesive on stickers, tape and labels.

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