A Bit More Progress
- Thread starter choppinczech
- Start date
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
My comment wasn't to denigrate Chopinczech's work at all, I think it's brilliant!! was just pointing out that some of the meshes can cause airflow issues, I've been building sports cars (Lotus 7 clones) and a few guys have found out how restrictive some of the perforated Ally mesh is when placed in front of a Radiator as a grille.
Regards,
Mike.
Regards,
Mike.
Intrepid
Active Member
I think his work is amazing as well.
However I have gone through allot of air filters on my drag sled and had to re jet the carbs for every one.
More than likely it wouldn't be enough of a restriction for anything under 5000 rpm, and if you never plan on going over that you would never see an issue.
You will probably have to change the plugs after a 500 mile break in anyway with all the break in lube that should be on a new engine, but I would keep my eye on them after that.
If you feel it might be a bit restrictive when you are setting up your timing and tuning things just right you can always test it easy enough, just run a common 15 inch cheapo round chrome one for a 50 mile run, see how it works - check the plugs - then run your good one and
compare.
Just a side note : don't run synthetic oils before the first 1000 miles or so, the engine won't break in proper.
However I have gone through allot of air filters on my drag sled and had to re jet the carbs for every one.
More than likely it wouldn't be enough of a restriction for anything under 5000 rpm, and if you never plan on going over that you would never see an issue.
You will probably have to change the plugs after a 500 mile break in anyway with all the break in lube that should be on a new engine, but I would keep my eye on them after that.
If you feel it might be a bit restrictive when you are setting up your timing and tuning things just right you can always test it easy enough, just run a common 15 inch cheapo round chrome one for a 50 mile run, see how it works - check the plugs - then run your good one and
compare.
Just a side note : don't run synthetic oils before the first 1000 miles or so, the engine won't break in proper.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
No worries. All advice is appreciated.
There's so much good info from other builders in this forum.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
A friend had a bra made for his custom and window screen made it overheat.
2old2fast
Active Member
If it's a roller cam , it doesn't need the zinc
True, but doesn't it help the valve seats as well?
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
That's some good stuff. Guys like that (garage visionary's) are amazing. Just using his gut intuision, his eyes and his hands. Imagine what he could do using all of the CNC designing and manufacturing tools available.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Well I got this motor in over the three day weekend.
And I used every bit of the three days, because I had to redo my motor mounts to get it to sit level.
When I used this mock up block and stock manifold throughout the build, everything was based on keeping the carb mount of the manifold nice and level.
But notice the back angle of the block. All this time I never saw it.
So when I went to put the new motor in that has a level intake manifold, it looked like it wanted to take off like the Space Shuttle.
I had to raise the tail of the transmission, and lower the engine.
Luckily with all of the drive line changes, I have lots of adjustment in the rear 4 bar setup for the pinion angle.
And I used every bit of the three days, because I had to redo my motor mounts to get it to sit level.
When I used this mock up block and stock manifold throughout the build, everything was based on keeping the carb mount of the manifold nice and level.
But notice the back angle of the block. All this time I never saw it.
So when I went to put the new motor in that has a level intake manifold, it looked like it wanted to take off like the Space Shuttle.
I had to raise the tail of the transmission, and lower the engine.
Luckily with all of the drive line changes, I have lots of adjustment in the rear 4 bar setup for the pinion angle.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
I'm getting a bit concerned on how low.
I'm looking for a Slam-Gaurd type oil pan like Jim's using. But haven't found anything for a stroker.
The pan on there is a "clearanced" stock unit I guess. I don't know what'd be involved in "clearancing" a 4qt. Trans-Dapt Slam-Gaurd pan.
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