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Anyone use an "X" style crossmember as a tranny mount ? pics ?

anyone run one like this ?

would like to know what its built out of and maybe approx length overall ?

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With the T frame being 23-6'' wide, a crossmember like this eats up a lot of valuble space.
 
I've never seen a pic or heard of a T Bucket needing a "X" member. They're just so small, it would be overkill.
 
Fred is right, there is no need for a full X member. However, adding a short leg or gusset to each side of the rear of a tube running from side to side will help keep the frame rails square to each other.
 
Yeah ...that's what i'm talking about!
 
Here are a couple of pics of the K member on my chassis.

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I hope that they will help you.

Jim
 
I have sort of an X member or K member?. It ties to the tranny mount and the driveshaft loop together. Here are the best pics I have today (not at home)
 
dam jim....i start droolin every time i see your chassis...soooo fine!!!!!

Ron
 
Ted Brown said:
Hey Guys, you are lookin at a high dollar car here, as Jim did a super job with everything on the whole car, chassis, body, interior, paint, wiring, wheels and tires, everything...

WTF? I see excellent craftsmanship and attention to detail. That doesn't make it a "high dollar car".
 
Todd,

I agree with you as to high dollar. Quality work and attention to detail don't necessarily relate to cost. It takes the same amount of material and parts to build like minded cars. It's how you put them together that makes the difference.

As to K or X members. T bucket chassis are for the most part way to flexable in torsional twist. This is usually amplified due to radius rod type suspensions. There are several schools of thought on that subject and I will give you mine.

If you run the traditional front & rear radius rod suspension then I think that you need to have a frame that will twist to some degree. If the frame is extremely stiff then as it takes tire impacts it will tend to stress the radius rods and not the frame. That is why you do see failures in radius rods or bent/cracked frame brackets at times.

I prefer to have very stiff frames that resist any torsional twist. To do do that correctly you have to have a suspension that will articulate without bind or stress. Independent, 4 links, 3 links and torque arms are all good ways to do this. Given the small confines of a T bucket some are better choices then others. If you have a chassis that flexs, it becomes an unknown rate spring. Now you install a suspension spring of some type to do the work except it is not giving you a true spring working value. In a race car it becomes a real tuning problem I realize that T buckets are not world class touring machines and therefore there are a lot of compromises. They are are what they are, fun cars to drive. This just my view of things based on years of building both drag race and road race cars. At heart I still am a hot rodder and probably will combine both good and maybe not so good designs in my next project. Hope this will be of interest to some of you.

George
 
I have seen a whole lot of fancy detail, and chrome, that was not built correct in any way, even by so called experts, years on the road under many miles of stress, under every condition will tell the tale... Frames are to be none moving, if possable, because if it moves, you can not set up the suspension to do the same thing twice... AG/Supercharged cars test your true abillities... and when they are in the winners circle every week, that says something...
 
Ted: You're right about that. When I was racing (circle and road race) we wanted the frame strong and the suspension to do all of the work.
 
jim nice job on the chassis. looks well planned out.. any more pics? what kind of steering box/unit you going to run?

sorry for jumping/jacking this thread with pics request.
 
Brucer, I am using a Vega box and if you'll e-mail me at ***jimnnan42@bellsouth.net*** (remove the stars) I'll send you more detailed pictures if they will help you.

Jim
 

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