Attaching heim joint rod ends

[Youngster]

the 3/8" would be the best but if you can get that you should still be ok. just taper to the large diameter of the taper. the nut will pull the stud down to seat it.

from looking at you pictures i don't see anything "messed up." they could have heated and reshaped the spindle arms some but you'll be just fine like they are.

fun solving these lil screw ups huh?

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

Agree, these little PITA's are "fun". I'm a bit under self-made pressure with the car. I'll soon be gone for three weeks and return to two events I've been trying to get ready for since last year - the NSRA East Coast Nats in York, PA and the NTBA Nats in NC (with a few time-absorbing family activities thrown in between). Been working on the short list and right now it's kind of touch and go.

One more question, I dont have a reamer and Speedway is asking $79.99 for one. Any idea where I could borrow one of these, is this something a rental store would have?

Bruce

 

[Ted Brown]

Are you into welding??? I would just cut the end off the spindle arm and turn it over, weld it back and also, if they shortened your arms by heating and lowering them, you can now put that length back into the arms by adding that amount to the ends, then grind them clean, and they will look stock, good as new maybe better for you :biggrin:

 

[Youngster]

the re welding is also an option for you. i was trying to come up with a non-destructive fix for you. check with your ford dealer or an aliegnment shop for the reamer. really needs to be a 7 degree reamer.

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

I really don't want to go with cutting/rewelding the arms but am thinking that might be the solution to the bolts. The bolts would be fine if the longer (1-3/8") and shorter ends (1/2") were swapped. Another option might be to have a machinist make bolts that fit the situation.

Not sure businesses will loan out a taper drill but I'll try that angle today.
Does anyone on the forum have one they can loan out for a couple of days?

It's not real clear why it's like this. I guess the tie rod is supposed to mount under the arm? That would solve the problem if there was room between the tie rod and the frame. Oh well, I'll let you know what happens.

Bruce

 

[Rick]

Send me your address and i'll send you a reamer.

 

[Track T-4]

Rick,

I sent you a PM. Please let me know if you do or don't get it. Thanks alot for your help.

Bruce

 

[Rick]

Got it sent you one

 

[Rick]

Bruce do you have a variable speed 1/2" drill motor?The best way to ream the sockets is to coat it with tap majic or a good cutting oil then pull the trigger real SLOWand move the reamer in and out.Stop clean then check depth.Youll see a grind line on the tie rod end from taper to straight.STAY WITHIN 1/16 OF THAT LINE with hand presure cause when you nut it and torque it down it will draw down.I'll take it to work tomorrow(laid off but can use the equiptment still)and put a keen edge on it for ya.This way when the reamer digs in youll spin around the shop trying to get away from it.:lol::rofl:I just want you to start with a sharp reamer.

 

[Track T-4]

Rick,

Sorry to hear you're laid off, too much of that these days. I can relate, I spent a year out looking for work a while back...now retired.

Yes, I have a 1/2" variable speed drill and am anxious to do some spinning. :lol: Will use the oil and take good care of the reamer.

Thanks,
Bruce

 

[flatheadgary]

might i ask what could be a dumb question?
why don't you just drill the steering arms out to the size of the largest part of the taper and use a rod end with the hole to match?
ie, if your using a 3/8 hole rod end, just go to a 1/2 rod end. you will have to get another tie rod to match or drill and tap the one you have, if it has enough meat to do this.
i am at a loss at this problem with the taper.
i have made plenty of steering arms out of flat 3/8 steel and just drilled the hole for the rod end through them. i then just make a tie rod to match.
i have made them for race cars and street cars. never a problem. straight axles tend to bounce up as one unit and not as an independent. i have never seen much binding in the tie rod, possibly in the drag link type steering. (bump steer)
in case nobody has said it, the reason for the taper is, the stock tie rod end on old cars is not a rod end.

 

[terrymac]

Track t they should if you us 2 of them and tighten them against each other

 

[Youngster]

not a dunb question gary. just thought this might be easier for track. hard to tell someone how to fix something when your not standing in front of it.

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

That just might become the direction I take once I try the tapered reamer Rick is sending. I thought about it but wasn't sure the purpose of the taper. In fact, just yesterday my son-in-law suggested drilling it out and using different rod ends. We'll see what happens.

 

[Track T-4]

Rick,

I cant thank you enough for sending your reamer. I received it yesterday and it worked beautifully. I only did a bit of spinning one time when I changed my grip and pressed the trigger on the drill by mistake. :doh: I am mailing the reamer out as you requested. Your generosity is greatly appreciated!

Ron (Youngster),

I was able to use the conversion bolts from Speedway. Working fine now. One more problem behind me. This was the easiest solution without having to weld or replace the tie rod or heims. By all accounts I think (hope) all the front end issues are now behind me.

Now on to bleeding the brakes and taking the first test drive since September.

 

[Youngster]

ahhh ... life is good and now it's about to get better track!!!!!!

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

Ron,

Forgot to say thanks.......THANKS!

Bruce