Yes. The original idea was that the bed would be enclosed, with a floor, and the scoops would be needed for air. But once we built the frame and mounted all the stuff, we nixed the floor as too complicated and unnecessary. This pic is with the fuel tank removed.Do you get air to the radiator from the bottom as well as the sides?
I think that would work fine. The side scoops seemed like a good idea, but I can't say how much, if any, they help. I ran for 10 years without a cover on the bed. Then put on the cover and it seems to cool even better with the cover. Maybe the cover reduces turbulence, making for a better airflow thru the radiator. Wish I had access to a wind tunnel so I could know for sure...I'm thinking about putting a radiator and grill in the back similar to what you have done and use a similar fan setup as well, but I had hoped to scoop only from an enclosed bottom, nothing on the sides. Do you think that would be enough air flow?
I bought a cutty cabin with a brand new mercruiser vortec 4.3 in it that had only one season on it. The freeze plugs were all in tact, but the block was split down both sides below them and inside the lifter galley above them and the manifolds were cracked. What a waste. I did buy it right, now it has its second new engine... I hope you fair better!If you froze hard enough to blow a core plug , it's even money you cracked the block or heads or both !! Good luck
dave
That is a stout looking axle. It looks to be a larger diameter than most, or is it just an illusion?Prepping for the new steering, I've leveled the axle (a digital level is a great addition to your tool kit) and centered the rack:
Note the center line tape on the perch. And here is a new Speedway spindle:
The ever-helpful Ron Pope of RPM is making custom steering arms to connect the spindles to the rack tie rods.
That is a stout looking axle. It looks to be a larger diameter than most, or is it just an illusion?
I had ceramic pads on my truck and they work great. The trade off is the rotors, the pads eat them. Not sure about the will woods.The brake pads were only about 1/3 worn, but I wanted to try a different compound. These are Wilwood's Polymatrix Q, which has some ceramic in it, and is supposed to be the quietest and cleanest pad they have:
Wilwood has pads for all their calipers. Each pad has a plate ID and a compound ID; match your old pad plate on the website pics, and then pick from a choice of compounds. I got mine on Amazon, which often has better prices than the rod shops.
What old round fart said but I would use a center punch before the 1/8th" bit to get is centered exactly where you want it. As for bending a propane torch can if used long enough but I would use MAPP gas. Also a good bench vice and large hammer with a polished head can be used with the gas to give nice crisp bends.New steering arms from RPM. They lack holes so I can customize them to my setup:
Questions: 1) What's best technique to drill 3/8 steel? High speed, Kryptonite bit, personal lubricant, or use my X-ray vision?
2) If I have to bend them, what's best way? Will a propane torch suffice?