Big redo of the old bucket

[PotvinGuy]

Well Google says it was Karl Wallenda.

Wallenda is generally credited with some variations like "Life is on the wire. The rest is just waiting, " or "Life is being out on the wire. Everything else is just waiting." The exact quote I gave comes from a character in one of my favorite movies.....

 

[Zandoz]

The electrical panel is getting to be a real mess with added wiring and changes and I need to do more work on it, so I removed it today so I can work on it on the bench in the nice warm house. But the darn thing has 24 multipin connectors plus a dozen new wires without connectors that had to be cut.

The new EFI handheld is buggy and I think it's just electrical noise, so need to rewire that and maybe add some filtering. I don't want to get off on a rant here (of course I do), but why can't the SEMA guys make stuff that can work in a real car, with noisy power and water and dirt?

How big is that panel, and where is it mounted?

My original plan has been to mount most of the components in a drawer that would be mounted under the dash. But I'm beginning to think that the panel in the drawer will need to be a lot larger than I envisioned...possibly larger than would physically fit and/or be aesthetically pleasing. There is no plan for the under seat area, but I do not like the accessibility. So at this point I'm looking for ideas.

 

[PotvinGuy]

The Panel mounts vertically behind my removable bucket seats:

It's about 30x10 inches. If I did it over, I'd use fewer connectors with more wires in each one.

 

[Indycars]

How many conductors would you put in a single connector and what type would you use???

 

[PotvinGuy]

I used one 24-pin connector (can't remember make, but you can search DigiKey or Allied for circular connectors). But you need a compatible crimp tool so as to not go crazy.

These multipins are fine for low amp wiring, say 18 or 20 gauge. For high amps, like a water pump, fuel pump or fans I use trailer connectors (Del City), which come from 1 to 8 pins and can handle 16 gauge or bigger. Del City has lots of automotive electrical stuff; go look around. And for the really big wires (battery, alternator and main feed to panel) I used junction blocks: Junction Blocks I run cables straight from the battery to the starter (neg to a starter bolt). And then cables from the battery to the junction blocks. And cables from the alternator (use a mounting bolt for the neg cable) and the main panel to the junction blocks. Like this:

I don't use the frame or motor for any grounding. All loads get a dedicated ground wire back to the main panel.

 

[Indycars]

To remove my body would be a nightmare with all the wires that travel thru the
floor or up to the dash. I love the idea of dedicated grounds running back to central
headquarters, but I have no extra room and it looks like a mouse nest now, not so
bad as a rats nest but close. I did over compensate with ground straps between the
engine and frame; also intake manifold and engine block.....etc.

I have Deutsch connector kits ..... both DT and DTM, so I should be good up to about
20-25 amps and 12 pins possible. I certainly need another crimp tools to keep track
off and pay for.....what else is my money for but more tools. heheheh!!

Yes I have lots and lots of parts thru DelCity, they have way too much of my money
now, but it's worth mentioning for the others reading this thread. I also like Crimp Supply
for my Deutsch connector components.

Great discussion!

 

[PotvinGuy]

Hey, Crimp Supply is new to me;thanks! I like the Deutsch stuff, but the crimp tools are $$$

 

[PotvinGuy]

Spent the morning cleaning up my documentation (20 years of scribbles). Now to add some nice Weather Pack connectors:

And new toys this week! Houdaille shocks from Five Points:

For the front. Need to fab some brackets and decide how to couple them to the suspension.

 

[choppedtop]

Those are good looking shocks. I bet they give them away.

 

[Tjbucket]

show, your electrical panel is ridiculous compared to what I have......trying to figure out the need for all that? I have my electrical set up so I could unbolt my body disconnect a few connectors and lift off. I caught that mistake the original builder did when I was disassembling. Not sure what all the relays and other components are needed for? The shocks sure are nice!!

 

[PotvinGuy]

My car has all the electric parts you can imagine: water pump, fans, fuel pump, EFI, linear actuators to raise the bed lid, shifter, keyfob remote, and of course the NSA surveillance jammer. I use relays on all the stuff that needs much current, so the dash wiring doesn't need to carry any power. The dash wiring goes thru a single 24 pin connector so I can unplug it and take it in the house to work on it.

Yes, I'm looking forward to playing with the shocks. Chopped, they do give them away, but shipping is $500. Just ordered some slick pieces from Bronzebushings.com for the linkage I'm designing. That company has lots of bushings and washers made of sintered bronze with lubrication incorporated. And minimum order is only $10.

 

[choppinczech]

and of course the NSA surveillance jammer.

 

[2old2fast]

I've seen telephone junction boxes in office buildings w/less wiring than your dash
dave

 

[butch27]

Also nuclear submarines. LOL

 

[PotvinGuy]

I tried to cover my interior with black vinyl, but it looked bad. Two things I've never understood: women and upholstery. So I ripped it out, did the Bondo and sand routine, then gave the whole interior two coats of primer. Then two coats of truck bed liner:

This is serious stuff. Make a mistake with ordinary paint, no big deal. But bed liner is impervious to chemicals, sanders, and nuclear bombs (I didn't test that last one). The can says Xylol will take it off. I gargle with Xylol, but was out today. In any case, I did a super mask job:

Any overspray is a major boo-boo with bed liner.
Did the floor and sides and interior firewall. The finish is really nice. Textured, tough as nails, weatherproof. I left the tranny exposed and painted it silver, with 3 coats of clear. It looks good, almost like plastic, and should withstand clumsy oafs like me. And I use this:

..it's a general purpose glue that will stick most anything; wood, 'glass, metals. More versatile than epoxy or superglues. Get it at hobby stores.

 

[Zandoz]

I tried to cover my interior with black vinyl, but it looked bad. Two things I've never understood: women and upholstery. So I ripped it out, did the Bondo and sand routine, then gave the whole interior two coats of primer. Then two coats of truck bed liner:

This is serious stuff. Make a mistake with ordinary paint, no big deal. But bed liner is impervious to chemicals, sanders, and nuclear bombs (I didn't test that last one). The can says Xylol will take it off. I gargle with Xylol, but was out today. In any case, I did a super mask job:

Any overspray is a major boo-boo with bed liner.
Did the floor and sides and interior firewall. The finish is really nice. Textured, tough as nails, weatherproof. I left the tranny exposed and painted it silver, with 3 coats of clear. It looks good, almost like plastic, and should withstand clumsy oafs like me. And I use this:

..it's a general purpose glue that will stick most anything; wood, 'glass, metals. More versatile than epoxy or superglues. Get it at hobby stores.

I'm planning on doing my interior with bed liner...but the tintable roll/brush on variety. Depending on my final upholstery color I want to go with a silver grey or light beige color to minimize heat retention.

For bonding to fiberglass I'll be using West System Six 10, based on the recommendation of someone with a lot of fiberglass experience, both automotive and marine.

 

[PotvinGuy]

Sounds tasty. The smoother the surface, the better the liner will look. So Bondo, sand, primer, ad nauseam. A day or two now will give big return. And once the liner is on you don't get a do-over.

 

[fletcherson]

I got disgusted withe the chrome shop when I restored my fiat and used bed liner on the bumpers. They look great. Better than the chrome, and have held, up well. I did a lot of prep, sand blasted them, etc, to etch them. The bumpers were just twin tubes and they have black rubber ends and thick bumper guards, the black looke much better with the red paint.

 

[Zandoz]

I got disgusted withe the chrome shop when I restored my fiat and used bed liner on the bumpers. They look great. Better than the chrome, and have held, up well. I did a lot of prep, sand blasted them, etc, to etch them. The bumpers were just twin tubes and they have black rubber ends and thick bumper guards, the black looke much better with the red paint.

Was that Fiat an X1/9 or a 124? My cousin's son is an X1/9 fanatic. He's probably had close to a dozen of them. Looks wise, my favorite Fiat after the Topolino was the 850 Spyder. My favorite "Would love to try" project, again after a Topolino, would be a 124 Sport Coupe with a Buick V6

 

[fletcherson]

Was that Fiat an X1/9 or a 124? My cousin's son is an X1/9 fanatic. He's probably had close to a dozen of them. Looks wise, my favorite Fiat after the Topolino was the 850 Spyder. My favorite "Would love to try" project, again after a Topolino, would be a 124 Sport Coupe with a Buick V6

124 spider, nothing all that special. I ran across it when I was undergoing radiation treatment and couldn't pass it up for some unbeknown reason, lol... It was mechanically sound,,needed a top and floor repair. I bought it for a song... Picked up a parts car and actually paid someone else to paint it, which I regret, anyway it's since had a interior kit, so it's in really good condition, fun to drive, very easy on gas. It really surprised me on the hi way, it's happy at about 80-90, I've learned... That's clearly the designers target speed, it just hums along. I have to make myself watch the speed... Not that's it's fast, it's just the way it's geared, etc...