I did. It should be an easy change, hope it goes thru.PotvinGuy, did you send Ron a PM?
Jim
Holy moly, I hadn't even heard of this company! Checking out their site, they build a super cool '32. It ain't cheap, but it is the cat's meow. Very slick Watts and R&P front end.
The aluminum brazing is great for thin stuff that typically burns away with a mig. It's possible to repair material as thin as beverage cans. You have to clean well to minimize the heat required and get the best flow. I've found that a broader torch, like a typical propane plumbers torch works well, better than my oxy aceyline torch, because it doesn't over penetrate due to the flame focus.I love hand crafted parts.
I'll have to look into aluminum brazing. There's lots of things where I could use it.
Cool idea, you have more faith in aluminum than I for suspension parts, but I guess the load won't be too much. I plan on using a more traditional watts link on mine, a modified speedway offering I picked up. Waiting until I get mine back on the ground to start fitting it under and behind the front axle.Ok, try again. Here is the centerpiece of the new control linkage:
And here is the mount, which attaches to the leaf spring retainer plate:
Note the use of aluminum brazing. This is great if you don't weld. Brazing is done with a propane or MAP torch and an aluminum brazing rod. Both at HD and cheap. Brazing actually binds the pieces together like welding, but it's as easy as soldering. Check YouTube for videos.
And the painted and assembled unit:
Bolt this to perch, add a couple tie rods to the batwings, and see what happens. Have to work around the weather up here in MN; some days I can go for a spin, some days I just sit in a corner and eat a cookie...