choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Thanks John. Been thinking about getting another project.
I have cut the rear frame rails off to lower it about 2” so the next move is pull the motor and trans and get the chassis back in the frame jig to be sure it’s straight.
That will solve it! I’ve been known to physically throw a few things myself... sometimes a fresh start is the best resolve.Several months ago I cut my frame off at the kick up to lower it a little. Putting it back has not been so easy! I have many hours in the sweltering heat trying to put it back. Well. today I went scorched earth on that SOB! I could get all the angles equal and everything parallel but the cross measurements were 1/4” to 3/4” off no matter what I did. Today I pulled the motor and trans out and cut the car in half at the firewall! Tomorrow I start a new back half from scratch. I’m throwing the old one in the lake for fish houses! New pictures to follow!
True, and some require the installer to be one of “their” approved installers. I’ve personally repaired and installed hvac since I was 16, never epa licensed, but have accounts at wholesale supply houses so I can get whatever. I do 90% of the hvac work on my rentals because I can, it’s obviously cheaper, and the guys I know are usually very busy so I can provide timelier service for tenants. BTW, reducing the rentals has been a ongoing process over the recent several years.Some of the mini split companies will not honor their warranty unless the unit is installed by a licensed contractor. In Tucson I did everything including hooking up the electrical, but hired a contractor to hook up the A/C lines and vacuum and charge the system. That maintained my 5 year warranty. Unfortunately one of the units went out at 5 years and two weeks. I'm trying to decide what brand to get this time. What do you have?
Most come precharged for a specific line set length. Some even come with precharged, preterminated line sets. If you do need to braze the lines, wrap the valves with wet rags, swage or use fittings and braze or silver solder the lines. The newer refrigerants require a much higher pressure so traditional sweat soldering is highly sketchy and not recommended. Also, if you charge or check the charge, it’s wise to have shutoff valves at the connection ports because of the high pressure. Gloves are a good idea too. I’ve had frost burn in 90 degree weather from Freon burn. BTW the units I’ve installed recently all suggest nitrogen pressure testing and purges prior to charging. It’s really not cost effective to do this work for your self unless you do it often enough to offset the cost of all of the trade specific tools required to properly do it, from my experience, but unless you know a installer, it can be expensive. Hope it goes smoothly.I got it a Lowes. I think it is BMI. ITS 1 ton and was about $700.