Brass Works Radiator with Overflow tank

[LILRED]

Guys and Gals

My 383 T Bucket big pistons big cam seems to run hot if not on road, I Have a Brass works radiator system which operates like my stock 1927 4cyl chevy system (old open system not pressurized) with recovery tank added to close off system and refill radiator when cooling. This thing seems to get hot fast if standing still at idle after normal driving temp reached, drove around for 45 min 200 degrees, stop at house idle for 5 min right up to 250. I am thinking this system be pressurized like a modern closed system.

comments please

 

[Ted Brown]

Trouble is with that Brass big top tank, much over 6 LBS pressure will/could destroy that tank at the seams, DTDT myself in the olden days... Check to make sure you have plenty if advance in your timing, and that the fan draws plenty of air at idle, see if it will hold a shop towel to the front of the radiator core, if not, try and use a bigger fan and a smaller water pump pulley, this will speed things up, both air and water, also try and leave out the thermostat to see if that helps...

 

["The Bat" out of hell]

A pic or too of your engine,would give something better to go on,like fan,hose's ect.,you'd be amazed how many times what is wrong can be right there but you don't see it as some thing wrong.
The avatar pic is too small,but kind of looks like rad tank and hose are lower then intake on motor?if that is so ?you got a airpocket at intake.

 

[hotrodman]

Guys and Gals

My 383 T Bucket big pistons big cam seems to run hot if not on road, I Have a Brass works radiator system which operates like my stock 1927 4cyl chevy system (old open system not pressurized) with recovery tank added to close off system and refill radiator when cooling. This thing seems to get hot fast if standing still at idle after normal driving temp reached, drove around for 45 min 200 degrees, stop at house idle for 5 min right up to 250. I am thinking this system be pressurized like a modern closed system.

comments please

I have the same set-up on mine (see "40 Year Dream" in the Gallery).I got a 4" intake manifold fill neck(Jeg's or Summit)and a 7 lb. cap. At the rad I have a13lb. brass cap (Speedway)and sealed off that overflow. The highpoint of the system is now at the manifold and the overflow there leads to my recovery tank. The fill neck also has provisions for a bleeder valve,sender unit for temp gauge and one for fan switch.I also highly recomend Evans coolant (race version-it's thinner)-boiling point of 400 degrees F. with a 7 lb. cap and NO corrosion (no water involved).Also I'm running a 160* stat(Stewart EMP balanced sleeve with 3 bleeder holes).Works great.