Buggy spring help!!!! Please!!

[TrueBlue]

hey all,,got a little problem was hoping someone here could shed some light on for me. I purchased the medium arch spring from Speedway, to go along with my model A crossmember. I started doing some mock up yesterday and and I love the look, but I'm having some clearance issues on the sides of the crossmember where the spring comes out. I've read that you can add shims to the top to help lower the spring down some, but wasn't entirely sure about that. Also, since this is a 2" wide spring, its 1/4 in thinner than the factory Model A spring. Will that give me any trouble? Last resort is to buy a 2 1/4 in. high arch spring, as it'll solve both of my issues, BUT it will raise my rearend about 5 inches or so. Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[Spanky]

Can't you use some heat to spread the sides of the crossmember in that area? Might have to spread the U-bolts also. Realistically, how much clearance do you need to add?

 

[TrueBlue]

well the way Spirit built the frame, the box tubing goes through the actual crossmember, so if I get into that, ill be grinding and cutting for a while. The leaf is about 1/2 in. away from touching. with weight it will lay on it. I also realized I need more spacers under the spring as well. The Ubolts are maxed out up against the crossmember and the spring isn't tight up in there like it needs to be. what do you mean spread the ubolts?

 

[Neshkoro]

Is the crossmember wider than the spring? If so, I wouldn’t think it would matter. The u bolts prevent the spring from moving from side to side. The radius rods will keep the rear end and spring aligned.

 

[HenrysT]

Looks like the cross member could/should be dropped down. Instead of the cross member going to to the top outside, drop it so it goes to the top inside of the frame. Those spring perches on the axle looks like they should be farther apart and lateral braces to keep them from bending. The shackles should be straight out when there is no weight on them.

 

[TrueBlue]

Is the crossmember wider than the spring? If so, I wouldn’t think it would matter. The u bolts prevent the spring from moving from side to side. The radius rods will keep the rear end and spring aligned.

correct,,its a 2 in. wide spring. And I'm pretty sure this member took a 2 1/4 wide.

 

[Neshkoro]

If you’re still worried about the difference in width you could shim each side 1/8 inch to take up the space.

 

[TrueBlue]

Looks like the cross member could/should be dropped down. Instead of the cross member going to to the top outside, drop it so it goes to the top inside of the frame. Those spring perches on the axle looks like they should be farther apart and lateral braces to keep them from bending. The shackles should be straight out when there is no weight on them.

yea they are just tacked in place. the plan is to add gussets during the final weld. This crossmember is higher than normal. Long story short, I guess there was some miscommunication on my part with Spirit and this is what I received. I actually like it higher though tbh. Allows me to do the spring over axle and not be jacked up too damn high in the rear. at this point I don't want to get into cutting and re configuring the kick up section. I'm gonna try to tweak what I have if I can make it work out. I wish I could find a high arch spring that was a compromise between the Speedway high arch, and the medium arch. Medium is 10 tall, where as the high arch is 15 or so.

 

[409T]

Try joe@joesspeedshop.com. He makes some custom suspension stuff, very reasonable pricing.

 

[HenrysT]

Made sure you have room under your hangers so the shackles have the room to swing!

How to separate a Transverse or Buggy Spring | Eastwood Blog

Rear Spring Hanger Kit

Transverse Rear Leaf Spring Axle Mounting Brackets, Model T/Model A

 

[HenrysT]

Mounting a Traditional Transverse Rear Leaf Spring

https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/916-45108.pdf

 

[Hackerbilt]

Just to be clear.
The issue is the spring will bottom on the two frame rails where they pass thru the ends of the crossmember?
Correct?

Original Model A's don't have the frame rail pass thru the crossmember so thats a big issue for you right there.
I know you don't want to, but personally I would modify (or have modified) that right off the bat.
The reasoning is simple.
By leaving it like it is you have a problem that will affect every step you take back there.
You will always be trying to compensate for that clearance issue as you build the car. You are doing it already!

You see the problem. Fix the problem...or keep compensating for it until you hate the whole build.
It's not a big issue to repair for someone who does frames or most any good welder.

You could use the taller spring I guess and help the height issue by lowering the axle brackets for the shackles. Not sure how much extra height you will end up with.
How it will effect the look you are after is the big thing!

 

[old round fart]

I’m not sure you need much clearance there. That is the thickest part of the spring. You may be able to cut the corner off the frame and replace it with a straight piece of steel parallel to the spring.

 

[iroct]

It looks like an inch lowering block would help.

 

[choppedtop]

Can you show a photo from the end of the housing toward the frame and spring?

 

[TrueBlue]

Can you show a photo from the end of the housing toward the frame and spring?

here's some close ups from underneath. The crossmember is laying on the spring. maybe an 1/8 inch of travel. I was hoping to just add some spaces at the top to get the leafs away from there.

 

[choppinczech]

Maybe you could remove that part of the tubing that's inside of the crossmember and box it in.

 

[Spanky]

You may be able to cut the corner off the frame and replace it with a straight piece of steel parallel to the spring.

Good one, chop. I think that's what ORF had in mind, too. I was also thinking along those same lines.

 

[old round fart]

That is right on! I’m artistically challenged! Lol

 

[choppedtop]

Maybe this?