Carter Electric Fuel Pump

[Screaming Metal]

So I need to mount close to the pump then and not close to the carb? I am thinking it would be eaiser to run all braided fuel line from the pump to the regulator. Then from the regulator up to the carb. Would this be an okay way or should I use a hard line? Also, I have a fuel filter between the tank and pump, but should I run another filter between the regulator and carb? Thanks for the advice!

Sorry engine....been busy..........yes....its best to mount your pump close by your tank....IF it were me.....I'd run braided line up to the engine where the regulator would be, have the reg. mounted to the carb base or whereever you want to mount it, then immediately after the regulator, tee off, having a pressure guage there and then head into the carb. That way....when your tweeking the carb.....the regulator is right there, just in case you gotta adjust it............

I meant the if your not running braided line under the car......which I have seen some folks do........just put a piece of something over it so it'd be protected..................sometimes I'm gooffy................... haha.........

 

[Wild Mango]

Something to keep in mind with fuel pressure gauges is, being little they are not that read or repeat accurate. They are not very durable either, in common with most other ordinary bourdon tube type gauges and being mounted on the motor they get vibrated good. Glycerin fill helps them live a bit longer, is all.
Get a good 4" gauge like a Dwyer for a test gauge and hook it up when you need to set or check. That way when you do a fuel tune up you can know you are starting off with the same pressure.
Of course, a PSI here or there is of no concern as long as its low enough for the needle valve and float to control in on/off mode, and the pressure (flow) is high enough to keep both bowls topped up when your leg is hung up in it and that babe is making some serious RPM's.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Something to keep in mind with fuel pressure gauges is, being little they are not that read or repeat accurate. They are not very durable either, in common with most other ordinary bourdon tube type gauges and being mounted on the motor they get vibrated good. Glycerin fill helps them live a bit longer, is all.
Get a good 4" gauge like a Dwyer for a test gauge and hook it up when you need to set or check. That way when you do a fuel tune up you can know you are starting off with the same pressure.
Of course, a PSI here or there is of no concern as long as its low enough for the needle valve and float to control in on/off mode, and the pressure (flow) is high enough to keep both bowls topped up when your leg is hung up in it and that babe is making some serious RPM's.

Yea Mango....got that right on them not being easy to read or durable. I used to have one on a few of the fuel delivery systems when we'd be sitting a car up for a customer........that big ole engine vibrating so hard....1/2 the time you couldn't read the pressure......so I put a really short rubber hose on it..................and with the liquid filling.....they were manageable........on one FC......it was hammering so hard in the staging area.......I'd walked up to check the blower, the fuel pressure and theoil pressure before we shut the oven door, so-to-speak.......as I looked at the pressure gauge....I saw the hand become unattached.......

It now sits on my office desk as a keepsake.................