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"CHROME" plating

Old Rotor Flat's definition of E.P.A. is right on except he has blamed the wrong government department for ending production in America. The EPA and OSHA have improved the quality of life for everyone in our country, maybe not always as efficiently as possible, but one cannot dispute overall positive results that have been made. It is the trade treaties that have been proposed by Presidents and approved by the Senate that have killed production in our country. These agreements have allowed countries from all around the world, who do not have to meet our domestic pollution, safety and anti abusive labor laws, to have unrestricted access to sell their products here. The best way to return more production to the USA is ban all manufactured products from countries who do not meet our regulations. We must have complete access to verify that they meet our standards and in exchange we will not charge any tariffs to countries who meet or exceed out regulations. (Note- I do not advocate that they meet our wage scale as we can be competitive through productivity, quality and reduced transportation costs.)
 
I am not sure why the difference in price, just wrote down what my slip said. Sending out a few more parts and will let you know how that turns out.
 
McDenny's shock mounts are much more complex and larger than mine. Also, I did almost all the polishing on mine before taking them in. They only had to do a quick final polish before plating.

I just heard that Performance Plating is closing up shop. The mom and pop want to retire and the son doesn't want to put up with the hassles of being in the plating business these days.
 
That sucks. Was nice having a chrome shop only 5 minutes from home. Time to start asking and calling around KC for alternatives.
 
Hey-I've recently read a few articles about a process called Spectra-Chrome. It works more like painting than traditional plating-it i done with sprayers, it is applied over primer, and it produces a chrome-like finish by depositing a thin layer of silver which is then clear-coated. Does anyone have any experience with this? I don't know what the cost is, but from the articles the results look impressive.
 
I think that this trailing arm has been done by a process similar to what you are describing. I didn't get any particulars on the process or cost as I was more interested in the installation of the Corvette rear in the Firebird.

I thought that it could best be described as "Chrome-like". If the price is friendly enough, it might be a very viable alternative for a lot of cars where a little bright work was desired without destroying the budget.

CorvetteRearinFirebird002.jpg
 
I called them today, and was informed by one of the owners they are NOT closing and had no idea what I was talking about....
 
Hmmm... the person who told me they were closing is well-connected in the hot-rod community here in KC. I'll have to find out where he got his info.

EDIT: I'm a moron!! I drive by the place every day. I guess I could just stop by there and ask them!! I was by there today at 3:00 pm and the same number of employee cars was there as always.
 
EDIT: I'm a moron!! I drive by the place every day. I guess I could just stop by there and ask them!! I was by there today at 3:00 pm and the same number of employee cars was there as always.
Damn, Lee, I thought you wuz a detective. LOL Just funning you. I wouldn;t be surprized if they were to fold up shop. Times are tough. I know.
 
I used to be the head of security for a very large plating firm in Upstate NY (real upstate...not Albany)
I left there almost 5yrs ago now. Now I sell 4spd stickshifts. Anyway there are a few problems with plating shops. One is the Cyanide based bath they use is very very slow to treat in house. This usually means that they run parts in the bath until its just about as useable as tap water. Then they have it sent out on a truck to be treated at a HUGE expense. Now, the same firm does chrome plating on plastic, which is much easier and less expensive since its essentially an automated process. Most shops won't touch old parts, because they dont have the crusty old timer who will grind, fill and buff scratches and pits. They used to have one old timer who worked there back in the days of plating magnesium rims, and he could repair and plate pot metal. Its hot, filthy dangerous work, and no one wants the $12/hr to stand over a dip tank.

The copper coat is the most important as it also allows the nickel and the subsequent chrome to adhere to the work piece.

You could use just copper for an interesting look and have it powdercoated with a clear, or you can also have the shop do what used to be known as a 'woods nickle strike' coat. This is a thin nickel coating that has good shine and holds up well to the weather. Then they don't have to charge you for the chrome.

Good plating info, and buffing supplies can be found at Caswell Plating
caswellplating.com in Lyons, NY

No Im not affiliated with them in any way, but that is where I get my buffing supplies from
 
The best route to go imho, Price is great 1 killer can covers about 12 square feet, the stretch chrome is also great. A better alternative all the way around. You cant beat the cost anywhere unless you own a chrome shop.
 
Gerry, How does that chrome powder coat look? Any good? The chrome shops around my area are just to expensive.
 
It is not chrome but most people who see it think it is. Not got the depth but the cost is way way lower. Plus you can have it redone again and agin if needed. If you have the money you can always switch to chrome down the line. Put a chemical paint sealer on it to help with UV degradation
 
Thanks Gerry, I will give it a look see. Should be better on the radius rods than black paint anyway. Yep down the road I can change it.
 
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