Damper design wanted

[Gerry]

I think the air volume will always be enough to dampen the spring bounce. Both pistons need a hole drilled in them to limit the air escaping and of course the lid on each end needs a hole too . Start small.

Sounds like a winner to me. I was thinking about it and it seems along the same lines as a wind governor, like stunt men use to slow down descents/falls.
Thanks for everyones help I think we have a simple solution
Gerry

 

[one finger john]

Now that looks like a great idea. Cheap to make and try out. I was thinking along the line of a sincle cylinder with a piston at each end so your idea is spot on. Just wondering about a reaction from one to the other. What do you think will happen if the axle moves up in one and both pistons need to move together.?
Thanks again
gerry

Butt Gerry, with all this air being compressed and expelled, isn't the front end going to sound like a whopee cushion or an old folk after a colonoscopy. especially on a really bumpy road?

John

 

[Gerry]

Butt Gerry, with all this air being compressed and expelled, isn't the front end going to sound like a whopee cushion or an old folk after a colonoscopy. especially on a really bumpy road?

John

Now that could be a problem, but the other half's used to it LOL

 

[Francis Blake]

The way I see it, there would be no air involved the cylinder would be filled with oil and capped the piston on the rod would dampen the action as it moved through the oil the lid on the end with the rod through it would would have to contain a good seal to prevent the oil from escaping.

 

[Alfwulf]

try this idea and see if it has potential its just in word i didnt know how to insert it here. No fluid needed .

rooster57's Idea does look good. The o-rings that could make it work wether air or oil is used would be "teflon".

Lee

 

[rooster57]

rooster57's Idea does look good. The o-rings that could make it work wether air or oil is used would be "teflon".

Lee

:blush: :hoist: :thumb: rooster gets to go the the head of the class .

 

[Gerry]

:blush: :hoist: :thumb: rooster gets to go the the head of the class .

I have been thinking and come up with this,
I sorta figuted that if its an air damper between the opposed coils this should work. No need for holes in the pistons just in each end. One side is a push rod that moves. The other side is solid with the cylinder.
Now tell me what I have got wrong, cause Im sure theres something I have missed

Gerry

 

[Old Rotor Flap]

Gerry,

Take a look at commercially available cylinders like Bimba. These are relatively inexpensive. I'd suggest a double acting cylinder. You can add fittings with needle valves to the ports of the cylinder to better flow control.

Personally, I think you'll find the concept of compressing atmospheric air pressure in such a small area to be disappointing as a means of dampening. When.... oops, I meam If the air thing doesn't work, you can fill both sides of the cylinder with fluid and connect the two ports together including a needle vale to produce a hydraulic cylinder. It would be necessary to calculate the volume of cylinder areas on each side of the piston and offset the piston so one side has a smaller volume to equal the volume of the other side that has the piston rod. Did I say that right?

Another approach is to use a double rodded cylinder where each side of a centered piston has the same volume. This then requires a different mounting arrangement which may be difficult to incorrporate into your spring design as would having to add fittings when..... oops, I mean, If it becomes necessary to convert to external piping and fittings to connect the two sides of the piston.

You would not want the hydraulic cylinder to be absolutely full of oil. Some air space would allow for heat expansion.

I've used these Bimba air cylinders to build air shifters for street and drag bikes.

www.bimba.com

 

[leg show T]

I found this on page 2 from July 2010. MY OPINION: the opposing coil-- ID DIAMETER is too small for a DAMPER. Also, too small to help!

And if the spring CAN'T BE too springy, even with friction shocks, you have a handling problem! I would look at what Dan Woods built in the '70's.

The springs he made would be the right ones for your application, but it's going to be a ROUGH ROAD AND SOME SAFETY ISSUES?!

I like the look, but for a show car only. Some of the old frame shops from the '60's and 70's made their own springs and dialed them in

for ride and safety. Shock absorbers also must be mounted properly and at the correct angle. Bob Nunes

 

[Gerry]

I found this on page 2 from July 2010. MY OPINION: the opposing coil-- ID DIAMETER is too small for a DAMPER. Also, too small to help!

And if the spring CAN'T BE too springy, even with friction shocks, you have a handling problem! I would look at what Dan Woods built in the '70's.

The springs he made would be the right ones for your application, but it's going to be a ROUGH ROAD AND SOME SAFETY ISSUES?!

I like the look, but for a show car only. Some of the old frame shops from the '60's and 70's made their own springs and dialed them in

for ride and safety. Shock absorbers also must be mounted properly and at the correct angle. Bob Nunes

Dont be so NEGATIVE. All problem are solvable. Size is irrelevant to effectiveness if engineer correctly. The springs on mine were wound to the specifications of the car. Things (technically, materials, and design) have moved on from the 70s

 

[rooster57]

I think gerry is looking for something that will be effective and not take away from his spring design less is more

 

[Ted Brown]

Plus, the small hole should not exit to the outside, it should be through the piston inside the sealed canister holding it, yes? no noise and the best way to work it, just like a shock... ? But, as you say, now that has to be hidden, as all this extra stuff takes away from that show look, Danny told me years ago, it looks good, but it needs a lot of changes to be used on the street...