Dipstick tube

[Johnny]

Okay, I feel really really dumb, here. I have a lokar and I cannot get the dang thing to seat in the hole.
Anyone done this before? How do ya get the thing to go in? Grease it up and hammer????
HELP

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Okay, I feel really really dumb, here. I have a lokar and I cannot get the dang thing to seat in the hole.
Anyone done this before? How do ya get the thing to go in? Grease it up and hammer????
HELP

Since you didn't mention it, are you referring to the engine, or trans dip? I have Lokar on my trans dip and it has an O ring for sealing. The machined aluminum piece slides right in. Are you sure that you have the correct one for your application? A

 

[Johnny]

My bad. It's for the engine. My tranny lokar went in with no problem. I think I'm going to freeze the tube and heat up the hole and see if that will work. Dang thing should just go in, RIGHT!

 

[Telman2]

Are you sure you have the right dip stick for your engine? What kind of an engine is it, what size and what year?

 

[2old2fast]

Maybe there's a piece of old tube broken off in the block??

dave

 

[Screaming Metal]

Maybe there's a piece of old tube broken off in the block??

dave

Thats what I'd look at first. Then, you need to feel the end of the new tube, and make sure it has a small chamfer on it. Next, put the old end to end with the new one, if its not, you should feel the diff. in dia., or borrow someones vernier calipers.
I've changed 1/2 a gillion of those things in my time....sometimes if all else checks out, if you've got the braided tube, the braided end goes into a piece of tubing on the end. Get a openend wrench that will go over the braided line and sit ontop of that piece of tubing. Put a touch of clean oil on the end of said dipstick, hold dipstick over hole, engage it, then put your wrench on it, wrapping a rag around the part that your holding. Get a small ballpeen hammer and tap on the wrench, wiggling it. Usaully takes about 3 to 4 love taps to get her in good, then tap till she settles.
IF, IF it doesn't start after 3 or 4 small taps, something is wrong! If your putting a straight metal tube in and not the braided type, still use the openend wrench that slide over the tube, bottom the wrench on the bulb where the tube bottoms out on the block. Oil the end of it up and wiggle it, while firmly pressing down, she should start fairly easily. Then tap her to get her to seat.

If you have a old piece of tube broke off in the hole, grease up a vacuum cap and slide it in the hole a ways in. You should be able to start a tap into the tube, and once its threaded about 3 threads, the piece of old tube should be spinning. Pull up on your tap extension while turning and she should come out.
If not, tap on into it, breaking your chips every 1/2 threads. The vacuum cap will keep the chips from falling into your pan. Once your tapped into it at least 1/2 to 3/4 the thread depth of the tap, screw a bolt into the tube. Attach a slide hammer, about 3 or 4 good whacks, she should be out.

For the weak of heart, never fear, just trailer your T to your local machine shop, walk up to your machinist, hand it to him, and he'll do it for you for a very modest fee....

 

[Screaming Metal]

The tube has a snug slip fit to keep the grit and dirt out. It won't just slide in frictionless, or at least it shouldn't. Should be a nice drag on it, to pretty snug. You should not have to stand on that hammer to get it in! Be gentle and make sure theres a chamfer. If not, put one on with a file, then blow it out good and clean it.

Let us know if ya got it!....

 

[Johnny]

Thanks, fellas for all the info. I'll let ya know what happens.

 

[Johnny]

Success! I talked real nice, greased it up real good, held my mouth just right and it popped right in. Ya really had to get it squared up before it would go in.
Thanks, y'all