Wanted Enclosed Car Trailer

2 foot long 8x8 with one end wedged--wheel chock or wheel jack.

NEVER use the half round axle jack on a car trailer--have seen them break under loads that heavy.

 

Thanks guys that gives me something to consider besides my own point of view !

 

On my way home with my brand new trailer from Georgia (2015) i had a flat on I-10. I used my Pick-up's jack. Went an other 110 miles and had a blow out on my pick up.

 

What did you do to piss off the universe that day ???

 

I have the Trailer Aid. It works great!

I had two blowouts on the way to the Lobster Run Last year, both in NJ and using the Trailer Aid was fast & easy! Just remember to loosen the lug nuts BEFORE you drive the trailer up on it!

I also bought the wall bracket to keep it in place when we travel. Works well!

 

There are two versions, Trailer Aid and Trailer Aid Plus..... which one do you have?

One person complained that it did not lift high enough, guess you have not had any problems?

 

Not being critical, but a Jack seems like a mandatory item. Even a bottle jack would get you through and takes little space. I have had some bad experiences with ramps, they can skid, twist, etc. never used plastic ones... doubt I ever will.

 

G'Day Indy,
Have a look at the Trail a Mate caravan jack (or similar), you don't have to get under the vehicle to operate them, not cheap but worth it for the convenience.
Regards,

 

Just had a look at that 409, very simple idea, but will obviously only work on springs with limited articulation. The "other" wheel on my Van would have still been on the ground once the first one was up on the Aid.
Regards,

 

A bit hard to find in the US, but ebay had it for about $325. The price is hard swallow!

 

I have the Trailer Aid Plus. It gives you an extra 1" of lift.

 

Before leaving in a couple of weeks for the Nationals in Tennessee I wanted to equip the
trailer with a fire extinguisher. I didn't want the dry chemical types, they would create s
uch a mess of the car, that it might be better to just let it burn. Especially if the it gets in
the carburetor! The only type that was affordable for me was the CO2 fire extinguisher.

For a 5 lb unit it cost $167.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5CJHF...olid=2YFIUJ8JWFA6F&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

While I was looking at the different types I came across the Element E50, I liked it so
much that I bought one for the TBucket. It's so small it can fit under the seat and weather
won't effect it either. It's good on A, B, C & K fires. The cost was $85.

The one downside I have discovered is it's not very good in a windy situation.

Dimensions: 27cm (10.75") tall, 3.2cm (1.2") diameter & 275 grams (0.60lbs) weight.



Element - Fire Extinguishers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HDMT9T...olid=2YFIUJ8JWFA6F&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

Good thinking. You usually never think about it until after you needed one. I have had a couple of close calls over the years.

 

I didn't have time to create a mount for my 5 lb CO2 fire extinguisher before I left
for the 2021 Tennessee nationals. So I put it in an easily accessible location in the
back of the 2008 Navigator, just inside the lift gate. Now I want to give it a
permanent mount just inside the side door of the trailer. So I need to see what
others have done. I have some ideas that include 3D printing a quick release
(over center latch or a pull pin).

What have you done, please post pics.

 

I also have another trailer related question, I don't know what to expect from the trailer brakes.
They have several hundred miles now (maybe 1000 miles) and I have been using the Tekonsha
P3 manual application to break them in. Then I have adjusted them so the wheels rotate with a
fair amount of resistance.

My trailer brakes will not lock the wheels even when the trailer is empty, should they be able
to lock the brakes with an empty trailer ??? The trailer when empty weighs 3452 lbs, see below.

Trailer Specs:
18' plus 18" V-Nose
Trailer Weight Empty: 3452 lbs
Two 3500 lb Lippert Axles

 

Generally they should be able to lock up. I have heard that having the shoes re-arched can make a big difference. I had a 30' drill steel trailer that would lock up with a heavy load of drill steel. It all depended on how the trailer break controller was set. Mine had a manual lever to use if needed.

 

Put it on the lower inside of the door next to the hinge, then when you need it and open the door there it is. You would not even have to reach inside the trailer... Mine was already mounted inside next to the door but if I ever have to move it it will be on the door......

It was good to see you in Tennessee the other night......Way to much Fun......

 

Locating on the latch side you don’t need to open the door all the way for access. A small box (about 1/2 the size of extinguisher height) bolted to the wall makes quick access.

 

G'Day Indy, The correct adjustment for the electric brakes on my caravan is, Adjust the brakes up till it's hard to turn the wheel, then back off the adjuster 6 clicks. if they're done up too tight the lever arms can't exert much pressure on the shoes, and the drums get hot just rolling down the road. A lot of brake issues come from undersize wiring. I wouldn't be too worried about not being able to lock the wheels, but I would be worried if the trailer didn't do it's share of the braking with a load on. Playing with the adjuster in the car I can have the Van brake with the car, or in heavy traffic I can dial it up a bit so the van brakes are contributing more of the braking effort. I used Tekonsha brake units with success on my old Van, now I'm using a Tow Pro Elite. (local Australian unit)
Regards,