Wanted Enclosed Car Trailer

[Island Girl]

I've had the trailer since April 6th and I just got around to checking out the 12 volt dome and
load lights, they didn't work. All my brake, turn and running lights did work. I applied 12v to
the Trailer Battery Charge Wire, my dome and load lights worked then. I knew the problem was
with my 2008 Lincoln Navigator, so I broke out the 9,000 page (Digital) factory service manual to see what I could figure out.
The ignition switch has to be in the run position. Even thou my 2008 Lincoln Navigator has a
$600 Trailer Tow Package, they did not supply a relay and a 30 amp fuse needed for the battery
charge wire. Any standard rely will work, you don't need the "Ford" relay.

The two locations noted below were empty !

On the vehicle 7 pin connector, the battery charge wire is shown below.

~snip~
.

The relay and fuse come with the $750 trailer tow package . . . .

 

[Indycars]

Yea, I know I should have ask the original owners to buy the better tow package !

 

[old round fart]

Do you have the onboard battery connected?

 

[Indycars]

Do you have the onboard battery connected?

No, the only battery on the trailer now is for the emergency brakes. It's only 3.5" x 2.75" x 4".

 

[old round fart]

I think before you get to involved with finding relays and such I would apply 12 volts to the battery terminals for the onboard battery.

 

[Indycars]

It's not wired for an auxiliary battery, that's something I will have to do later.

I had the relay and fuse in my inventory, so it's already done.

 

[old round fart]

Of course you had the stuff in stock! What was I thinking? Lol

 

[fletcherson]

Yea, well, several years back, my mother’s ford mini van ac stopped working and after a day of troubleshooting and head scratching, I discovered that a brake pressure switch on the master cylinder was dripping and blowing a 10 amp fuse that was not remotely associated with climate control, but since the genius who engineered it determined to use numerous modules, with no logic as to systems, only location on vehicle, that turned out to be the issue. Unfortunately ford is not alone in this thinking. Welcome to “progress”.

 

[rbsWELDER]

Since we are still on the topic of trailer upgrades, I thought that I would show you what I did today.I added an AC power outlet to the trailer:

Now I can charge the battery or run a utility light without getting the extension cord caught in the door! Or having to leave the door open at night!

 

[rbsWELDER]

I have a small solar powered vent in the roof of my trailer, to exhaust the heat build-up in the trailer. I did a little research on this vent and it is only rated at 3 CFM. It is designed to vent an RV holding tank.

I would like to go for something with more CFM and I like the idea of solar powered, especially when I am not pulling the trailer and charging the trailer battery.

Any experience / thoughts?

 

[T-Test]

Vortex Replacement Vent Fan Upgrade

 

[rbsWELDER]

Thanks Bruce, but no cfm listed!

 

[Indycars]

I would like to go for something with more CFM and I like the idea of solar powered, especially when I am not pulling the trailer and charging the trailer battery.

I'll be interested to see what you decide.

 

[T-Test]

This one is a reversable 188 cfm.Sucks air in or pulls air out.
Vortex II Vent Fan Upgrade

 

[Indycars]

Please let us know how Better Weigh works, where
you end up w/ car loaded in trailer and tongue weight.

@Dezolde

I’m getting about 500-550 lb. tongue weight with the rear tires of the TBucket to just about go
between the inner fender wells. The trailer weighs 3450 lbs and the car is approximately 1700 lbs
for a total of 5150 lbs. Tongue weight should be between 10-15%, so 10 percent would be 515 lbs.
I will be adding more weight in the front with tools, so I might need to move the car back some
when that happens.

I really like the BW (Also Called Haul Gauge), it’s much easier than the other methods for
measuring the tongue weight. Just plug it into the OBD port, run the calibration and you are
ready. Then as you load the trailer you can watch the tongue weight. The BW reading on your
phone is about 10 seconds behind what’s actually taking place. I can’t attest to the accuracy, but
there are several YouTube videos where they compare it to the Cat Scales located at truck stops.

 

[T-Test]

There will be more in the trailer before you make your first trip than you think. Placement of all those items will be the bear to figure out and keep the TW in close proximity to the gross trailer weight/GVWR and still get the car inside without something being in the way. BTDT

 

[Indycars]

I bought two spare tires with my trailer purchase, but at this point I have no way of raising
the trailer so I can get the flat tire off.

I have been trying to find the perfect solution and I didn't want to keep a jack in the trailer
at all times. So I was looking into a ramp that raises the trailer on the good tire while you
change the flat. But while being plastic and easy to carry they seem to crack and break.
The "Race Ramps" would be nice, but are too expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V8UKBO/ref=twister_B012SYO24U?_encoding=UTF8&th=1



So I'm wondering how the TBucket members are addressing this problem?

RhinoGear 11909ABMI RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramp - Pair (12,000lb. GVW Capacity)




What are you using to change a flat tire on your trailer???
.

 

[HenrysT]

I would get a HF type floor jack. You can use it on your trailer, T or help somebody else that you meet on your journeys.

 

[old round fart]

I have seen a cam like device you put on the axle and pull forward to roll it up to from the ground. I’ll look around.

Springfield Quick Change Trailer Jack For Wheel Size 10

 

[choppedtop]

I think I would go for the Race Ramp. Since you only need one, that won't hurt too bad. Look at your investment so far. That is just a drop in the bucket. Looks like Amazon has them in stock.