Engine and tranny installed!

[tfeverfred]

Well, what a weekend it was! I prepped the tranny and engine and got them installed. The engine mounts and the tranny mount were purchased from Auto Zone. The ones for a 1968 Impala were perfect and the price was WAY RIGHT! Less than $20 for the three.

Everything fit like it was supposed to. As in all things when detail is a factor, prep was 75% of the job. A few things like the plug wires, inline fuel filter and water pump have yet to be gotten, but all in all, a good two days.

 

[Rick]

Way to go man it looks pretty cool.

 

[tfeverfred]

Thanks! I'm pleased how it came out.

 

[tfeverfred]

UPDATE! When I purchased the motor, I was given a reciept that had a vin#. I ran the vin and the truck came back as having a 350 SBC. HOWEVER, upon running the motor number through a local chevy dealer this morning, it is a 305.

This doesn't really bother me.... that much. I called my guy and he said that at one point I did ask for a 305 OR a 350. This was true. Looking back on when I went to check out the engine, I can't be sure what he said. I guess my excitement of finding a good motor at a good price got the best of me. He did say that it had been recently rebuilt and I noticed that also when it arrived. So, no worries.

I'm still pleased at what I got and for a little cruiser that won't be racing, it will be fine. Minor upgrades will still be possible if/when I decide to go that route.

 

[bobj]

You really have things looking good, looking at your photos it drives me crazy that I still have at least a year to go before I can start mine But when the time comes I know that I will sure enjoy the build.

 

[tfeverfred]

Thanks, Bobj. It is a good feeling. Your day will come and now is the time to plan and save. It's also a good chance to note the mistakes of guys who are building one. *points to self*

"Enthusiasm can lead to blindness. Slow down and think things out. No short cuts. No deadline, take your time." These are things I constantly have to remind myself.:dance:

 

[Rick]

The only thing to keep in mind now that your working with a 305 is cam and carb.You will have to go to a 500 four barrel now and jet up as you need to.But other wise keep on keeping your looking good

 

[tfeverfred]

The only thing to keep in mind now that your working with a 305 is cam and carb.You will have to go to a 500 four barrel now and jet up as you need to.But other wise keep on keeping your looking good

I did some checking when I first thought that I may go with a 305. They aren't bad motors, they just don't breathe well through the intake. This is a good motor to get a feel of how a T drives, etc. Heck, I may even keep the quadrajet. If/when if gets boring, I'll probably go with a rebuilt 350.

I started a swear jar to save in. I think I have about $20 in it now and it's only been about 12 hours!:dance:

 

[Rick]

Hey you don't need much motor to get a woody driving these things trust me.Anything over a 305 is a waste unless you want to drag race it.Stick with the 305 and IF you get bored through a cam in it,and an intake for low end torque you'll smile ALLLLLLLL day long

 

[tfeverfred]

Rick, you have spoken volumes! The second I found out about the total weight, I knew that a stock or near stock motor would do the job. One of the bucket guys I ran into told me how he used to run a big block that had all the goodies. He now has a 350 that he says is mildly done and he STILL has not had a chance to explore it's limits.

Now, I'll be the last one to say that an amped out, dual quad monster motor doesn't look impressive and intimidating in a bucket, when it's all said and done, how does it drive? Is it a white knucle ride that scares the crap out of you if you get into it? Would it make the car so scarey that no one would want to drive it but you?

Horesepower is great for bragging rights and winning races, but for what I want to do, it won't be needed. I want to cruise and have a trouble free good time. I don't want to spend a weekend trying to get my setup dialed in or fix something that broke. The power to weight ratio of a stock motor would make a T Bucket more than able to handle the average opposition if I chose to race and I don't street race and I'm not going to weld in a roll bar to take it to the track.

 

[Rick]

Getting ready for next week.Whats next week you ask?My first 100 mile run to work and back.It's pretty scary in my truck but hey it's a man thing ya know?Those shocks have me woried I DON'T LIKE THEM!!!!!!!!! When your front end wants to bounce (which it will)they don't recover very well.Maybe the friction shocks that have clutch plates are better but this rubber stuff (in my opinion SUCKS)And if you EVER have been in a Bucket and the front end starts to bounce trust me youll change your shorts next .

 

[tfeverfred]

Are you still trying to dail them in? Maybe it is something else that is causing it. Keep us updated on what you find out.

That 100 mile drive sounds good. Hey, ya gotta try it to find out.

Here's a link to a neat power/weight quarter mile ET calculator. Of course there are many variables, but the results are probably close enough.

http://www.dragsource.com/index.php?navselect=calculators&calctoview=5

A 2,000 LB car with just 150 HP will cut a 13.8! I think that's pretty respectable for a street car.

 

[Rick]

Yes it is IF YOU CAN CONTOL IT.Trust me Fred those shocks are not all that.Granted i have wires in front not meaty tires.That very well could have something to do with it.Watch a dragster driver go down the track hands are going every where.My car doesnt go any were but straight but when that front end starts hopping look out.I torque the nut on the shocks but hole sqeaking tight and let that friction do the job.Is it a rough ride?Nope.But not the ride i want.My buddies have shocks on the front and they swear they will never go back to the friction ones.And yes they have Total Kits.

 

[tfeverfred]

I found this post by Brian on their site. Maybe you have them TOO tight?

"As far as how tight to mount the friction shocks, tighten these only until you feel drag (about 12in.lb torque). You can adjust these further later on until the ride quality you desire is achieved. Once this is set, you should not have to adjust it again, at least not for quite some time. The nut for the friction shock is a nylon lock nut, so it should hold for quite a while. I recently had to tighten the friction shocks on my personal car, not bad seeing how they were originally installed in 1991.. " from Brian@TP

Now, when I first took a look at them when I got them. My first thought was "You have GOT to be kidding me." They just don't look like there is anything to them. When we lowered my engine/tranny onto the chassis, I was watching what happened and I STILL don't see how the heck they could work. I'll call Brian tomorrow and pick his brain as to the science of them. This is worth looking into.

I only own Fruit of the Loom, but they still cost money!:dance:

 

[Rick]

I talked to brian about this isue the other day and he seams to think i have a rip or something in the rubber i checked nuttin .As far as 12 lbs i don't know ive gone to 20 to 25 lbs and get the best ride there best as in no wheel hop good ride? eeh.My car could have the wrong geomitry front to rear i don't know i know i talked to Brian for a good 1/2 hour on this subject and from what we talked about and what i did to the car im not sticking with the friction shocks.I have WAYYYYYYY to many bumps in the roads around here to rely on them.Now this diclaimer appliesO NOT DO AS I SAY AS YOURE SITUATION MAY DIFFER FROM MINE.Total sells a fine product but my situation needs a bit of tweeking and i'm not going to buy more rubber for my shocks to have this happen again again.Send it free and ill try one more time.Ps to tight will not give you wheel hop it will make your cars front end rough over bumps mine goes side to side right.left.right left REAL FAST And real scarrrrrry

 

[tfeverfred]

I checked the NTBA archieves on them a few minutes ago. It is a very contrivercial topic. Some for, some against. I think the variables that could effect it could go from engine weight to proper frontend geometry and everything in between. It's almost like something that works right IF and WHEN you discover the setting. That is not good enough for the amount of driving I want to do. I'm going to look into it some more, but the answer seems like: Try till you get it.

On another note, the small shock setup they sell looks good, but I have often thought that they could be hooked up differently. Like, instead of attaching to the radius rods, what if you made a bracket that attached to the frame horn and attached the shock inbetween that and the axle mount that is for the friction shock.

Any thoughts?

 

[Rick]

Yes got to ntba site and then to the (at the top) forums then to technical then to chassis then photos of front shock set ups come back here and tell me what YOU think.Go now ill be hear

 

[tfeverfred]

The VERY first pic in black and white. THAT is what looks like a very good setup! I knew I had seen it before, but couldn't remember from where.

That looks like the way to go. The angle looks like the shock may lean too much, but not enough to matter that much. It just looks right to have a shock on the front of a car!

 

[Rick]

Do what you want to your car i'm just stating my opinion of how my car should ride brother not saying there system is bad.Obviosly they have been doing it for 20 some years and it must work for some.key word some....or else they would not sell a specific add on for juice shocks.Right?

 

[tfeverfred]

That sounds about right. I may go ahead and get the shock setup later. It couldn't hurt to use it.

Everytime I drive around, I make a mental note as to whether the road I'm on is "Tbucket friendly".:dance: Good shocks will save a lot of heartache and underwear.