Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Engine and tranny installed!

Dont think just around the block. Think like me 100 miles THEN make your choice. I know i have. Let me know ill send you (if you pay postage)a FREE set of chrome friction shock levers ,the ones that bolt to the frame and are the shock
 
Yea, you can't plan for a road you've never seen and you shouldn't have to worry while driving either.

That's a good offer, but I'll keep what I have because it matches my other non chrome parts.

I'll see how mine drives when I get to that point, but for some reason, I see myself getting a hydralic shock setup. Oh well, peace of mind.
 
Talk to Brian don't let me sway youre choice its just my preference here not any scientific test ive done just personel choice.And real bumpy roads around here LOL
 
LOL Yea, I'll pick his brain, but the real test will be when I drive it. Trust me, I'll let the site know how it goes.

Worse case scenerio, I'll buy the shock kit and if I don't need it, I'll sell it to someone who does.
 
Rick, I called Brian at TP today and he basically told me what the post said. However, there were other things he said that might be of interest in regards to the friction shocks.

1. He said that the 12 ft.lb. of torque is a base figure. The final adjustment is up to the owner and how he intends to drive his car.

2. He stated that at one time he owned a big block T that was set up to drag race. He had his set VERY tight. It reminded me of how you said you had yours.

3. He said that there are variables that will effect how they work and you will need to account for these: tire and rim size, make sure toe in is correct, make sure that ALL connections are tight.

4. The last thing he said was very important. He said that they MUST be adjusted the same amount of torque regardless.

He told me that he has the ones on his present T very tight, while a T that Mickey drives is so loose you can move them with your hand! All in all, it boils down to adjusting till you get it right.

I figure, if they didn't work, why would they sell them when they could just push the $200 hydralic set up? The friction shocks look so simple, that it is easy to blame them for something that might be caused by something else.

I know that I have not driven mine, so I can only wait and see what happens, but there seems to be a fair ampount of tinkering to be done with the friction shocks before giving up on them. Anyway, let us know how things work out and keep us posted. I am very curious how this works out. Personnaly, I don't mind spending what it takes to have a safe ride. I will go with whatever works.
 
Like i said i have mine very tight.As to the front end i had a $200.00 laser system job done to my car and take note as close as i thought i was it was off quite a bit no my front end is fine its the shocks .I will however tighten them one more time.Just so you know the nylock nuts i got loosen up real quick even with lock tight.so the shocks for real move i have to just figure out how to keep them from comming loose i guess.
 
Oh by the way tomorrow starts my 30 day trek through the Total gallery.I always follow the snow sled T-bucket
 
Nice! I'll keep an eye out!
 

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