Rick, I called Brian at TP today and he basically told me what the post said. However, there were other things he said that might be of interest in regards to the friction shocks.
1. He said that the 12 ft.lb. of torque is a base figure. The final adjustment is up to the owner and how he intends to drive his car.
2. He stated that at one time he owned a big block T that was set up to drag race. He had his set VERY tight. It reminded me of how you said you had yours.
3. He said that there are variables that will effect how they work and you will need to account for these: tire and rim size, make sure toe in is correct, make sure that ALL connections are tight.
4. The last thing he said was very important. He said that they MUST be adjusted the same amount of torque regardless.
He told me that he has the ones on his present T very tight, while a T that Mickey drives is so loose you can move them with your hand! All in all, it boils down to adjusting till you get it right.
I figure, if they didn't work, why would they sell them when they could just push the $200 hydralic set up? The friction shocks look so simple, that it is easy to blame them for something that might be caused by something else.
I know that I have not driven mine, so I can only wait and see what happens, but there seems to be a fair ampount of tinkering to be done with the friction shocks before giving up on them. Anyway, let us know how things work out and keep us posted. I am very curious how this works out. Personnaly, I don't mind spending what it takes to have a safe ride. I will go with whatever works.