engine storage

[ellis8500]

Well, doesn't look like I'll get my 27T done this fall so might have to store the engine over the winter. I could get my rolling chassis done, mount the engine and set it up to run. If I dont, what's a good way to preserve it until next spring? I can set it up to just crank it over without sparkplugs to at least circulate oil. My biggest concern is corrosion in the upper cylinders. Would a shot of WD40 in each cylinder be OK or should I use a different product.? Chime in here experts.

Thanks.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Well, the ideal thing would be to start it every couple of weeks! But, if you can't do that, I pickle the motor, so-to-speak.
I get my Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, put some in the tank. Then, Start her up, get the motor good and warm, this will put the fuel stabilizer into your carb and fuel lines. Then, shut her down and let her cool off.

Next, pull your plugs out, get your best quirt can....the one that gives you a big shot of oil! Whatever you have in your crankcase, put it into the squirt can, and quirt it a time or two to prime the oilcan.
Now, shoot once thru the sparkplug hole and then screw in the plug. Tighten it just like your gonna run it. Do this for all 8 cylinders. Either pull your coil wire/ unplug your dist./or just disable your ign. so the motor won't start. After this is done, either spin the motor over a few times, or if the motor is still on the stand....turn it over a few times with the big pullhandle. Me....I get out my 1" drive impact and and I have a tool that afixes to the balancer and I spin it over with my impact. This will force oil thru the piston rings, and out the exhaust, coating the valveface and seat.

Next, I get a squirt bottle with trans fluid and spin the motor several revs, giving it a couple of quirts thru the carb. This will lube your carb throttle shafts and put a little lube on the intake valve faces and seats. Some builders will put the trans lube into the cylinders instead of oil. I like the heavier stuff myself in the cylinders.....plus it'll flow past your rings and pistons and get into the oil.

Finally....I pull the valvecovers and back off the valves....This isn't totally necessary on mild street stuff....but it doesn't hurt. Valvesprings left open for long periods of time will fatigue. Some will, then agian, some won't. BUT....if you measure seat pressure and all, they loose a little. If your running a high lift mechanical cam....its really hard on the springs. On your hydraulics, they usually leak down some, but don't close all the way.

One of the advantages of backing off the valves, your essentially closing that cylinder, so air and moisture won't attack that smooth, shiney, machined, sealed and seated surface that is your piston bore. Without air and moisture, theres no rust on the cylinder walls.
BUT,BUT,.....you gotta be careful not to try to start the motor like that....you could bend a rod by accident! Also, get a couple of clear bags and cover, then ziptie the bag over the carb. Close off your exhaust openings also. This keeps critters out and rust outta the exhaust valve area.

Then, if you got nice shiney chrome stuff, put on some polish. Shoot a little WD-40 on the linkages here and there, then get some sheet plastic and lovingly cover her up for the winter. Some people prefer not to do this....but a motor will sweat. If theres hot and cold extremes, try to keep it within reason, to keep the sweating to a minimum.

 

[Screaming Metal]

OH, before I forget....don't try to rotate your motors crank over with a impact and socket on your harmonic balancer bolt!!!! This is a no-no!
1. You can twist the bolt off
2. you can strip the threads out
3. Mess up your wrists and/or hands from trhe compression on the motor
Use a pull handle or use your big, long ratcheting torque wrench.

I have a fixture to bolts to the front of the harmonic balancer, and my Impact has a bar that attaches to the motor so I can turn it without it trying to kick back.......

 

[Screaming Metal]

Everyone! Be sure to charge your batterys and to make sure you have you have enough anti-freeze for your areas also :cold: . Isn't a bad idea to raise your suspension and let the springs hang free. This also gets the tires up off the concrete floor, keeps them nice and round, plus you can sweep under them ilot: . If one of them leaks down and goes flat....it might keep you from messing up a tire....
Everone, have a nice Thanksgiving and a very Merry Christmas! Happy New Year! (Getting a jump on the Holidays, gonna be traveling alot the next couple of months :sly: . Man, laptops are nice....but I absolutely hate the mouse on them! Ha! :smashpc: )

 

[Old Rotor Flap]

Screaming Metal,

Thanks, great recommendations.

For piston aircraft engines, Dehyrator Plugs are made for 18MM applications. These fit into spark plug holes and have a glass tube filled with silica gel/ crystals that turn from blue to pink when mositure is absorbed from the cylinders.... maybe not worth the money and effort since oiling the cylinders works . And they're a bit bulky.

 

[putz]

What do you think about fogging oil I use it in my 2 strokes and seem to keep cylinders from getting corrosion. I spay it in the cylinders and crank them over and stabil the gas.

 

[Screaming Metal]

What do you think about fogging oil I use it in my 2 strokes and seem to keep cylinders from getting corrosion. I spay it in the cylinders and crank them over and stabil the gas.

Hey, that'll work! I'm kinda funny about some things..... :whisper: ,....I kinda go overboard. Thick oil will work even in the most humid of climates.....