I did a test; squirted 2 cans of Great Stuff in a box, about 2" deep. After a while the surface had hardened, but it was still uncured underneath. I pulled off the hard part and let the interior cure. The next day it was completely hardened and I could cut and sand it. So the lesson is to build up in thin layers, maybe 1" max, allowing each to cure. And it really is tough; a power carving knife and rough sandpaper or maybe a cheese grate will ease the job. And it is sticky until cured; gloves recommended. I noticed they have several varieties of it; one is made for filling large voids and might be better if you have lots of space to fill.
The bottom of the floor will be fine with just a layer of resin to protect it.OH I was to the under standing that all the floor needed to be glassed top and bottom and to the side's to keep water from ruining the floor ? and was going to try this foam to make a nice smooth bead to transition the glass from the floor and up the side a bit ?
I think the key to using the spray foam is to let it fully cure. I waited at least 24 hours or longer for it to harden. It is so soft and flexible that when i first sprayed the bottom of my grille, i had to prop it up at an angle to keep the stuff from falling off in the floor. It is about the consistency of whipped cream when first applied.I tried the Great Stuff for filling large voids to build up about one inch on a Track T nose to get it to match the hood and my result was not as good. Perhaps I did not let it cure long enough. I was able to cut it shape etc. But when I put the fiberglass matte on it, most of it collapsed or melted down. Not all of but enough that now I don't know wether to finish filling with a body filler with Kat Hair in it or maybe try the regular Great Stuff.
Lee
You haven't fully experienced the trill of owning a T bucket till you've driven in a downpour!!
Ron