Front radius rod bracket angle

[trogdor]

I just picked up a front tube axle setup. It has the radius rod brackets welded on. It looks like the brackets have been welded 90 degrees to the axle. This means the radius rods won't mount to the frame (see picture). I could make some sort of bracket that sticks out from the frame for the mount, or I could cut the brackets off and re-weld at a slight angle. Which would be better?

 

[Spanky]

Keep in mind that this will also affect the spring shackle location. Might be easier to just heat and bend the mounting tab on the R?R bracket.

 

[trogdor]

Keep in mind that this will also affect the spring shackle location. Might be easier to just heat and bend the mounting tab on the R?R bracket.

Thanks. I'm not sure if I could bend just the mounting tabs. The bracket is sort of all together with the spring shackle mount points (picture below). You're right, if I cut the brackets and re-weld at an angle then my spring shackles will be at an angle, and that wouldn't work. Hmmm.....

 

[409T]

Easiest is to bend the radius rod somewhere behind the clevis and let the heim joint at the back take up the slack. You might have to space the heim joint off the frame rail just slightly. I had one that was bent that way from a curb and I never bothered to fix it. Didn't cause any problems.

 

[RodStRace]

Looks like it could also be a 'spring over' using that top hole, which would allow the hairpin flange to be bent.
Have you mocked up all the steering too? These tend to require a bunch of fitting to get everything to work well and look right. Try to get it all at least mocked up and stand back and take a look before making changes.

I would prefer to bend something to correct that gap, rather than hang to rear joint 3 inches out from the frame.
Was the other tab on the top of the axle for a shock mount? Possibly a lever or friction style?

BTW, I haven't gone back and looked at your previous posts, so I don't know your level of expertise. Please know that those nylock nuts on the spring hanger are supposed to be used only once or a couple times.

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[trogdor]

Looks like it could also be a 'spring over' using that top hole, which would allow the hairpin flange to be bent.
Have you mocked up all the steering too? These tend to require a bunch of fitting to get everything to work well and look right. Try to get it all at least mocked up and stand back and take a look before making changes.

I would prefer to bend something to correct that gap, rather than hang to rear joint 3 inches out from the frame.
Was the other tab on the top of the axle for a shock mount? Possibly a lever or friction style?

BTW, I haven't gone back and looked at your previous posts, so I don't know your level of expertise. Please know that those nylock nuts on the spring hanger are supposed to be used only once or a couple times.

Ecosia - the search engine that plants trees

Ecosia uses 100% of its profits for the planet and produces enough renewable energy to power all searches twice over.

www.ecosia.org

Thanks! I don't exactly know what that top tab is for. The guy I bought it from thought it was for a spring over mount, but I think the hole is too small. I don't know. Thanks for the info about the spring hangar nuts. I didn't know that they weren't reusable. I usually blue locktite those types of things, I don't think I've used those types of nuts before. That is good to know.

I haven't mocked out the steering yet. I'm trying to get things close, then maybe set the engine on, then adjust. It has been a process so far! I started with a spring-over setup and it was way too high... that's why I went the spring behind route.

 

[RodStRace]

Went back and looked at some of your older posts. Good work!
I'll offer that you should build and keep an 'owner's manual' for the car. Collect each part number and original source.
The side picture in this thread shows your spring in the 'top' hole. That will set the front higher, and provide the most clearance for the tie rod, since the axle is mounted lower. That is one of the areas to check clearance, so be aware.

The double hole steering arm is usually on the right side, for cross steering. That might be an extension on the arm, can't tell from the picture.