Fuel Gauge

[engine24355]

Okay, I am about done with using a stick to check my fuel levels. I would really like to put in a fuel gauge so I could monitor more accuratly. I have looked at several set ups, but would like some advice on the best overall for ease of instalation and accuracy. I have a 16 gallon poly fuel cell with electronic fuel pump etc.

 

[Youngster]

Does your tank have provisions for a sender?

Ron

 

[der Spieler]

The stick method of measuring works and is a lot better than using a match to see what's left in the tank but a gauge is probably the best way to go. Most installs should be pretty straight forward. A good power source, a good ground and matched impedence (resistance range of the sender matches the gauge). Here's some gee whiz info I stole from the Speedway site.

How deep is your tank?
Measure the depth of your tank where the fuel sender arm will be located. Choose the sender with an operating range which includes that dimension.
Right or left-swing arm?
Most fuel gauge senders attach with a 5-screw pattern. 2 of these screws are farther apart than the other 3. Position yourself such that the 2 wider-spaced holes are closest to your chest; a right side sender will have the arm (or "float") extending to your right, and a left side sender will have the arm extending to your left. This only matters when replacing an existing sender. A first-time installation can use either one, just drill the mounting holes accordingly.
OHM
The OEM’s used several different resistance ranges for fuel level indication over the years. However, some of the aftermarket gauge manufacturers follow the common Stewart Warner values (240 ohm empty – 33 ohm full).

 

[engine24355]

Does your tank have provisions for a sender?

Ron

No, I will have to drill a hole to mount one.

 

[engine24355]

The stick method of measuring works and is a lot better than using a match to see what's left in the tank but a gauge is probably the best way to go. Most installs should be pretty straight forward. A good power source, a good ground and matched impedence (resistance range of the sender matches the gauge). Here's some gee whiz info I stole from the Speedway site.

How deep is your tank?
Measure the depth of your tank where the fuel sender arm will be located. Choose the sender with an operating range which includes that dimension.
Right or left-swing arm?
Most fuel gauge senders attach with a 5-screw pattern. 2 of these screws are farther apart than the other 3. Position yourself such that the 2 wider-spaced holes are closest to your chest; a right side sender will have the arm (or "float") extending to your right, and a left side sender will have the arm extending to your left. This only matters when replacing an existing sender. A first-time installation can use either one, just drill the mounting holes accordingly.
OHM
The OEMs used several different resistance ranges for fuel level indication over the years. However, some of the aftermarket gauge manufacturers follow the common Stewart Warner values (240 ohm empty 33 ohm full).

Thanks for the info. I have read about this on Speedways site before, but wanted some advice from the experts. I am okay using a stick, but looking to upgrade if not too much trouble or expensive.

 

[donsrods]

You can buy a universal sender at marine stores, it covers tank depths from 7 to 24 inches, if I remember correctly. You cut it to length. You will need to match the impedance of the gauge, they are usually somthing like 70-240 ohms, or some number like that.

On a poly tank you will have to add a ground wire to the sender body, running to a good ground on the car, as the plastic won't make a ground. The senders usually retail in the $ 20-30 range......doing that from memory. Before you install it, manually run the arm up and down from an empty position to a full position to see if your gauge is reading it properly.

Don

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Having just been through this, let me add that there are numerous possibilities for sender impedance, for example...

0 ohms empty, 30 ohms full
0 ohms empty, 90 ohms full
240 ohms empty, 33 ohms full
73 ohms empty 10 ohms full
16 ohms empty, 158 ohms full
0 ohms empty, 280 ohms full

These are the ranges that AutoMeter lists for their fuel level gauges. I'm sure there are others, such as the range Don mentions.

The reason I know this info is I changed out my Dolphin gauges for AutoMeters last winter. I kept the Dolphin sender and matched the impedence when ordering the AutoMeter fuel gauge. Had to call Dolphin to find out the impendence of their sender, which was 0 ohms empty, 90 full.

 

[engine24355]

Thanks for the information guys. I have been researching and think I can do this without too much trouble (I have been wrong before). I have SW Wing gauges in my bucket now so I would like to match the look and then match the ohm for the sender. One question I have is with the poly / plastic tank I currently have. Will I need to use a sender instalation kit (mounting plate etc.) or can I just bolt the sender directly in the tank? Thanks again and keep the advice coming.

 

[donsrods]

Mounting is generally through some tapped/threaded holes, but in your case I would just run a hole saw of the appropriate size into the tank, place the sender on it, mark the holes, and use self tapping screws. You could run a bead of gas resistant sealer around the base before you screw it down to leak proof it too. Obviously, you will want to vacuum out any shavings from cutting the hole and drilling the mounting holes. OH,BE CAREFUL USING A SHOP VAC SINCE YOUR TANK HAD GAS IN IT, THE FUMES CAN IGNITE FROM THE VAC MOTOR!!!!!! We had a local guy blow himself up vacuuming out his bilge on his boat. Also, be careful when drilling, the electric drill makes sparks too. Maybe use a hand drill to be safe......or wash the tank out thoroughly with soap and water and make sure the fumes are gone completely.

The poly tanks made for boats sometimes have a metal ring molded into the tank to accept the screws, but you don't have that luxury since your tank was not set up for a sender. I don't think it will be a problem though doing it as I described.

Don

 

[der Spieler]

A gasket should come with the sender. It will be handy to use as a template for the holes. You could also use it for its intended purpose but the gas resistant sealer would probably give a better seal. Steve

 

[v8danh]

Thanks for the information guys. I have been researching and think I can do this without too much trouble (I have been wrong before). I have SW Wing gauges in my bucket now so I would like to match the look and then match the ohm for the sender. One question I have is with the poly / plastic tank I currently have. Will I need to use a sender instalation kit (mounting plate etc.) or can I just bolt the sender directly in the tank? Thanks again and keep the advice coming.

i have an aluminum round tank and had to cut the hole for my sender and while tightening the screws on of them stripped and i dug around in some spare parts drawers and found some small thin metal tabs that slide over the edge of the tank metal and the screw threads into it instead of the aluminum.i cant remember what they are called but they are comonly used in most cars to mount the fenders.these are the same thing only smaller.might work well for the plastic in your situation.

 

[Luggy]

The only advice I can give is get rid of the stick, BUT not until you install a gauge. Sounds like the '61 VW Beetle I had...no gas gauge in it and I too had to use the ol' stick. The following year is when they began to install fuel gauges.

Who's gauges are you running? You'll want to stay with their fuel sender just to keep things on the up and up. I've found in the past when you begin mismatching components, it ends up being a bigger headache.

If you have Autometer or Stewart Warner or whomever, they have comp[lete instructions with the sending unit as far as the ohms and how to install. You do NOT want to break out the hole saw until you get the required sending unit though...and don't go saying now..."duh, I know that." Well I do NOT know from persoanl experience, but I know of someone who did theis and they were NOT a happy camper.


Don't know if any of this helped.

Luggy

 

[Luggy]

You might want to call SW up on this. Explain what you have and I'm sure they'll be able to fix you right up. With the poly tank, you're basically dealing with a "boat" application, but with 4-wheels.

Luggy

 

[engine24355]

Thanks for all the help guys. I actually talked with the tech guys at Speedway motors on what they carry and they were very helpful. I know what sender I need now to match up with the SW gauge I want. I just need to figure out the best way to mount in the tank using what has been suggested. Thanks again for all of your help.

 

[putz]

I would hook up the sender to gauge wires to make sure gauge reads right before drillng hole.

 

[engine24355]

I would hook up the sender to gauge wires to make sure gauge reads right before drillng hole.

Good idea.

 

[engine24355]

Okay, I got the new gauge and sender working. That is the good news. The bad news is that after I installed the lighting in the gauge (tabs hold light socket etc. in back of gauge) it fell back out because half the tabs broke off...UGH. I thoguth I did it wrong at first, but then realized the metal tabs were just too weak (bad metal or batch of metal). I have been trying to call Stuart Warner about a possible replacement, but cannot get them on the phone. Any thoughts out there on if SW would even replace? All I need is the one wire and light sockete that pushes into the back of the gauge. Not a big deal, but seems like the tabs should not break that easily...you know. Either way, I have a working accurate fuel gauge that just needs to be mounted now (waiting on bracket).

 

[TheAntiBoyd]

how did you make out?

 

[engine24355]

how did you make out?

Worked out great. I was able to get SW on the phone and they agreed that it sounded like a defective part. Long story short, was advised to check with the vendor (Speedway) first and SW would back me up if any trouble. Called Speedway and they were super nice. Sent out a new part the same day. Could not have been better service. Have the gauge in and mounted. Works great and even have a approx. 1 gallon reserve when the needle hits "E".

Two thumbs way up for Speedway Motors!

 

[Youngster]

Ol' Bills guy come through again! :yay:

Ron