Has anyone built Youngster's frame width of 23"?

[fletcherson]

The only negative I can see to this arrangement is there will be no charging while you are
stopped. In a traffic jam this could become a problem, especially if you have an electric
radiator fan. Since I have a small PC-680 battery, this would potentially be a problem for me.

Wait till everything is electric, lol

 

[all-world1]

I'll be running an electric fan as well, and most likely elec. fuel pump too. Interesting concept though.

 

[Gerry]

.

 

[ruggs]

Speedway sells an alternator bracket that moves it to the top and slightly to the pass side. I choose to use the one for a short WP.


Part # 91667899

 

[all-world1]

Speedway sells an alternator bracket that moves it to the top and slightly to the pass side. I choose to use the one for a short WP.
Thank you sir.

Part # 91667899

 

[all-world1]

Another can of worms opened with the 20" inside width. I was able to score a steel Model T rad shell from Youngster before he passed. Problem is the width of the rad shell is 20 1/4" plus the lower mounting wings totals 23 1/4". I suppose one option would be a '28-'29 Model A rad shell from Speedway as I believe it's 21" wide. Any ideas?

 

[Spanky]

Sounds like you may have to do a bit of customizing. Are you able to section the shell to make it fit?

 

[all-world1]

Your idea makes sense for sure, but I certainly dont have the skill to do that.
One thought just crossed my mind. If I cut off the bottom mounting tabs and run a bracket along the inside of the frame and up approx 3" along the inside of the shell, that might provide enough stability.

 

[old round fart]

I don’t understand the problem. Can you post a picture?

 

[all-world1]

I'll take a pic and post it tomorrow

 

[all-world1]

Excuse the 2x4s as the frame...setup is dimensionally correct. Same frame as in my avatar is stored in another shop while I cleanout my garage.
Craig

 

[Spanky]

One thought just crossed my mind. If I cut off the bottom mounting tabs and run a bracket along the inside of the frame and up approx 3" along the inside of the shell, that might provide enough stability.

Looking at your setup that might just work. Another idea: create a 'saddle' in the shape of a wide "U" that the bottom of the radiator would sit in. The ends would lap over the frame, and be sandwiched between the tabs on the gill shell and the frame. Just a thought . . .

 

[all-world1]

Looking at your setup that might just work. Another idea: create a 'saddle' in the shape of a wide "U" that the bottom of the radiator would sit in. The ends would lap over the frame, and be sandwiched between the tabs on the gill shell and the frame. Just a thought . . .

Spanky, that idea is worth considering which partially takes care of the next issue on mounting the radiator.

 

[old round fart]

Is your concern the shell opening is to high? If the tabs are to the problem cut them off and drop the shell down and attach the shell to the radiator.

 

[all-world1]

Is your concern the shell opening is to high? If the tabs are to the problem cut them off and drop the shell down and attach the shell to the radiator.

Not that it was too high. My concern was that it doesn't fit between the frame rails (20" inside width) making the mounting of it a little trickier.

 

[old round fart]

Ok. Good luck with it. You will get it figured out

 

[Gerry]

If you are that worried about it then simply Notch the frames.....

 

[all-world1]

Thanks all for the input, some good suggestions to think about