Francis Blake said:Lay it on two 2x4's and use a brass punch an going from sidetoside work it out takes a little work but it will come out
That is totally correct, it trys to expand, but can't, so when it cools off, it now is a bit smaller, same as welding on it...Rick said:Sorry Ted but a bearing race will expand when heated.I've worked with Timken bearings all day long for 30 years and when i install a race i put it in dry ice to shrink it then heat the bearing to expand it to fit over the lathe spindles.
I am Sorry if I come across in a bad way at times, and probably do, but I only want new people to this sport to not have to go through all the crap that I went through for many years, as that is such a waste of time and money, I also love to hear good tips, as I am still learning, I learned most of them from older grouchy fellows like I am now.. hehe If I get too far out of line, tell me to my face, not to everybody else first, that ain't COOL as far as I see it... I usually say it as I see it, and it ain't always pretty... But I love these T Buckets ...rooster57 said:Ted i have seen steam fitters use that trick to get press fit pipe apart cool trick.
Ted, do you think a heat gun at 1100 degrees is enough heat and if so how long would it need to be heated? I'm new at this metal stuff.Ted Brown said:That is totally correct, it trys to expand, but can't, so when it cools off, it now is a bit smaller, same as welding on it...
Greg R said:Ted, do you think a heat gun at 1100 degrees is enough heat and if so how long would it need to be heated? I'm new at this metal stuff.
Thanks. I don't weld so the punch will have to do.RPM said:No a heat gun won't work. The weld trick works most every time. Just run a small bead in the center of the race and just let it cool. Most times the race will just fall out. Just be real carefull you don't slip just a little a weld the race in.
There really should be 2 releifs cast inside the hub of that rotor allowing you to use a long punch and drive that race out.