In the wind!
- Thread starter tfeverfred
- Start date
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
The body wood kit by itself is $120. The body with just floor and dash installed is $725. The body with floor, dash AND wood kit installed is $850.
Basicaly what I'm paying for is the knowledge that it will be done correctly or I can complain and return it and I won't make a mess of where I work. Which really is a factor I had not earlier considered.
I spoke with my boss and all he said was "You know, we're going to be moving a LOT of product the next few months. maybe you should wait til the SUMMER."
So, yea, I'll have Total put the wood in, but I'll do my own drilling of holes and the minor body build up that will probably be needed for the posts.
Which makes me wonder....... if just about every glass body needs to have the post area thickened up, maybe it's time to make some new molds?
Sorry I kept going back and forth with this. I'm sure some of you (all) were either bored with it or annoyed. There are a lot of things I can and cannot do with my car because I'm not building it in my own shop or garage. If I was, I could afford to experiment, screw up, make a mess, etc. So, I tend to REALLY think (sweat) things through before I do them. If you think this is bad, you should see me when I come across a T Bucket at a show or where ever! I'm trying to go through it like an episode of CSI!
Thanks for everyones suggestions. I considered each and every one and I'm very gratful to have so many cool guys to throw ideas around with. Lord knows what I would have done with no one to talk to about this stuff. Maybe I would have given up.
Basicaly what I'm paying for is the knowledge that it will be done correctly or I can complain and return it and I won't make a mess of where I work. Which really is a factor I had not earlier considered.
I spoke with my boss and all he said was "You know, we're going to be moving a LOT of product the next few months. maybe you should wait til the SUMMER."
So, yea, I'll have Total put the wood in, but I'll do my own drilling of holes and the minor body build up that will probably be needed for the posts.Which makes me wonder....... if just about every glass body needs to have the post area thickened up, maybe it's time to make some new molds?
Sorry I kept going back and forth with this. I'm sure some of you (all) were either bored with it or annoyed. There are a lot of things I can and cannot do with my car because I'm not building it in my own shop or garage. If I was, I could afford to experiment, screw up, make a mess, etc. So, I tend to REALLY think (sweat) things through before I do them. If you think this is bad, you should see me when I come across a T Bucket at a show or where ever! I'm trying to go through it like an episode of CSI!
Thanks for everyones suggestions. I considered each and every one and I'm very gratful to have so many cool guys to throw ideas around with. Lord knows what I would have done with no one to talk to about this stuff. Maybe I would have given up.
tfeverfred said:The body wood kit by itself is $120. The body with just floor and dash installed is $725. The body with floor, dash AND wood kit installed is $850.
Basicaly what I'm paying for is the knowledge that it will be done correctly or I can complain and return it and I won't make a mess of where I work. Which really is a factor I had not earlier considered.
I spoke with my boss and all he said was "You know, we're going to be moving a LOT of product the next few months. maybe you should wait til the SUMMER."
Which makes me wonder....... if just about every glass body needs to have the post area thickened up, maybe it's time to make some new molds?
Sorry I kept going back and forth with this. I'm sure some of you (all) were either bored with it or annoyed. There are a lot of things I can and cannot do with my car because I'm not building it in my own shop or garage. If I was, I could afford to experiment, screw up, make a mess, etc. So, I tend to REALLY think (sweat) things through before I do them. If you think this is bad, you should see me when I come across a T Bucket at a show or where ever! I'm trying to go through it like an episode of CSI!
Thanks for everyones suggestions. I considered each and every one and I'm very gratful to have so many cool guys to throw ideas around with. Lord knows what I would have done with no one to talk to about this stuff. Maybe I would have given up.
As for BUILDIND up the windershield area don't wory about that (unless you plan on hanging on it it's more than sturdy)But i think it's a good choice for them to do the WHOLE wood kit the floor can be a problem to get JUST right the seat is a snap Tell brian to build up your seat ONE course up it's a matter of 1 hour to build it up farther or have it done stock then TRY to level it. at least one coarse gives you the option of going up Parrellel to the floor not so if you cut it down.Your choice just adding to your misery.LOL
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
:lol:Good old Rickster, comin' in to pour salt in my wounds! No, I'm through with it. I have no choice, but to either let them do it or wait until summer to do it myself. Heck, I plan on driving it this summer!
tfeverfred said::lol:Good old Rickster, comin' in to pour salt in my wounds! No, I'm through with it. I have no choice, but to either let them do it or wait until summer to do it myself. Heck, I plan on driving it this summer!
With all your sweat i use Morton Salt cause it pours when it rains.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
It was sunny and 70 degrees today. I thought about ya.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Rick said:Whats your middle name Fred?Dog Man?I'll see you this summer.:lol:
I look forward to seeing you too, bro.
Fred, I understand your dilemma. In the early '60's, I built my T in the back yard working out of a 6' X 8' tool shed. Every night I had to pick everything up, put it away in the shed and push the car back behind the it. I think it took twice as long to build it that way.
Changing the molds won't help the problem of thin areas in the body. When they spray the chopped 'glass in the mold, it's hard for them to get up in these areas. The early Bird bodies didn't have a firewall in them and they were much thicker in the top of the cowl. Unfortunitly, the bodies didn't hold their shape very well. To fix this, they added the forewall. kinda like trading one problem for another. This is also why some bodies have the dash as a separate piece. The problem you run into there is the top of the cowl, were the windsheild sits usually isn't straight and needs to be built up.
When you drill the holes for your windsheild posts, be sure there aren't any voids between the body and the wood backing. If there is, mix up a little bondo and force it into the gaps. That should keep the body from cracking.
Changing the molds won't help the problem of thin areas in the body. When they spray the chopped 'glass in the mold, it's hard for them to get up in these areas. The early Bird bodies didn't have a firewall in them and they were much thicker in the top of the cowl. Unfortunitly, the bodies didn't hold their shape very well. To fix this, they added the forewall. kinda like trading one problem for another. This is also why some bodies have the dash as a separate piece. The problem you run into there is the top of the cowl, were the windsheild sits usually isn't straight and needs to be built up.
When you drill the holes for your windsheild posts, be sure there aren't any voids between the body and the wood backing. If there is, mix up a little bondo and force it into the gaps. That should keep the body from cracking.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Youngster.
