Introducing the T-Bagger
- Thread starter 0rg0
- Start date
That was my first thought but I have seen guys do this before thinking they would get the rear of the car lower this way.
As a side note, about that '40 front end, here's a front end I set up on my bucket in '68.
I have used this on several T's and a couple of A's over the years. It still looks as good today as it did back then.
Ron
As a side note, about that '40 front end, here's a front end I set up on my bucket in '68.
I have used this on several T's and a couple of A's over the years. It still looks as good today as it did back then.
Ron
0rg0
New Member
Well, moving on. Next challenge was the pedals. I had the pedal assembly from the 40, but the clutch pedal hit the x member.
pretty simple solution. Cut out a new top plate.
Modify the x member.
Weld it all together, with a gusset underneath, and just like that clutch pedal works.
pretty simple solution. Cut out a new top plate.
Modify the x member.
Weld it all together, with a gusset underneath, and just like that clutch pedal works.
0rg0
New Member
After all that was done, I really wanted to put it all together and see what I had going on.
I was pretty excited to get it to this point. Still a long way to go, but this is starting to look like something. It still needs a couple brackets. I still haven't quite decided what to do about shocks. What did you guys do back in the day for shocks ? I have all the lever action shocks from the 40, they work, but they are pretty crusty. And steering still needs to be dealt with. I'm planning to use the column and box from the 51 Olds with a traditional setup. Before I can start on that however I need to get a body on it. So I still have the 27 Coupe, but in the summer I picked up a glass 27 roadster body really cheap. Story that came with it said it was used as an altered drag car in the late 60's. The problem with it is somebody cut the cowl off of it somewhere along the way. It looks like a pretty virgin body. It has never been painted, still has marks on it from the mold it was made in. I'm pretty sure it's an old Cal Automotive body. It has a card glassed into it, looks like it says cal, but it's hard to read. Well I decided I like the roadster better. The coupe is out. Now how do I deal with this no cowl thing ? I had the cowl from a roadster pickup. It's a little rough, but I think we can make this work.
And that's where I'm at. I'm going to continue getting the body together and mounted. I will post pics of my progress.
Stay tuned, and wish me luck.
I was pretty excited to get it to this point. Still a long way to go, but this is starting to look like something. It still needs a couple brackets. I still haven't quite decided what to do about shocks. What did you guys do back in the day for shocks ? I have all the lever action shocks from the 40, they work, but they are pretty crusty. And steering still needs to be dealt with. I'm planning to use the column and box from the 51 Olds with a traditional setup. Before I can start on that however I need to get a body on it. So I still have the 27 Coupe, but in the summer I picked up a glass 27 roadster body really cheap. Story that came with it said it was used as an altered drag car in the late 60's. The problem with it is somebody cut the cowl off of it somewhere along the way. It looks like a pretty virgin body. It has never been painted, still has marks on it from the mold it was made in. I'm pretty sure it's an old Cal Automotive body. It has a card glassed into it, looks like it says cal, but it's hard to read. Well I decided I like the roadster better. The coupe is out. Now how do I deal with this no cowl thing ? I had the cowl from a roadster pickup. It's a little rough, but I think we can make this work.
And that's where I'm at. I'm going to continue getting the body together and mounted. I will post pics of my progress.
Stay tuned, and wish me luck.
Your build is coming along nicely. Take a look at a '36 rear spring hanger. I bet if you copy that shape you will have very nearly the stance you have now. On the front of a traditional car I have used a '49 Plymouth shock with a shackle plate made with an extra hole for a shock stud. The ol' tried and true "48 type frame mount works with this. You might have to reshape it a bit but it's a forging so that's no problem.
A suggestion on your body. These bodies are pretty flimsy 'cause they where made for drag cars. I would cut a floor from 3/4" plywood and glass that in first. That should stablize the shape and give you a solid foundation for rebuilding the cowl. At the front of the door flange, make up a bulkhead and glass that in place. Next take what you have of the cowl and make a flange to bolt it to the bulkhead. In my mind the '26-7 body gets some of it's uniqueness from the firewall. I would look for one and weld the cowl pannels to it. At this point all you need to do is fill the gaps with metal. the missing gas tank door can be found on ebay usually for around $20. They leak anyway so just stud one and bolt it in place.
I'm impressed with your shop. What was it before your club got it? Have the guy with the other '27 join so we can see what he's doin' too.
Ron
A suggestion on your body. These bodies are pretty flimsy 'cause they where made for drag cars. I would cut a floor from 3/4" plywood and glass that in first. That should stablize the shape and give you a solid foundation for rebuilding the cowl. At the front of the door flange, make up a bulkhead and glass that in place. Next take what you have of the cowl and make a flange to bolt it to the bulkhead. In my mind the '26-7 body gets some of it's uniqueness from the firewall. I would look for one and weld the cowl pannels to it. At this point all you need to do is fill the gaps with metal. the missing gas tank door can be found on ebay usually for around $20. They leak anyway so just stud one and bolt it in place.
I'm impressed with your shop. What was it before your club got it? Have the guy with the other '27 join so we can see what he's doin' too.
Ron
0rg0
New Member
Thanks Ron. I'm gonna fix up that rear end this week hopefully. I have a plan to attach the cowl, but haven't quite got the details together yet. I do have the firewall for it as well. I was thinking a solid subframe should stiffen up the body some. I've been looking for the gas tank door a little, but I may just fill it in smooth. Undecided...
The shop we work in is a place of business run by one of the club members. He builds these things for a living. The other 27 in the back belongs to a customer. It has almost the identical chassis as mine, but with a stock driveline.The '39 pickup is a customer vehicle. The T-bird in the back is a club car. we chopped it about 6". You can see the back end of a '51 Chevy custom we're working on, and the flathead powered Model A roadster is a club car as well. It's a great place to work. All the tools you could ever need. Tig welder, lots of metal shaping tools. Louver press. We are setting up a machine shop in the back with a lathe and milling machine. We can make just about anything there.
The shop we work in is a place of business run by one of the club members. He builds these things for a living. The other 27 in the back belongs to a customer. It has almost the identical chassis as mine, but with a stock driveline.The '39 pickup is a customer vehicle. The T-bird in the back is a club car. we chopped it about 6". You can see the back end of a '51 Chevy custom we're working on, and the flathead powered Model A roadster is a club car as well. It's a great place to work. All the tools you could ever need. Tig welder, lots of metal shaping tools. Louver press. We are setting up a machine shop in the back with a lathe and milling machine. We can make just about anything there.
0rg0
New Member
So here is my plan for the cowl. I've cut it so it slips right over what's left of the glass cowl. Interestingly the glass body is about 1 1/2" wider than the steel body, so I split the steel cowl in half. I will use the factory holes for the dash to secure it along that edge. I will use the windsheild stanchion holes for 6 more mounting points. Then I'll weld 3 or 4 threaded studs down each side of the cowl where it meets the doors. I have the original brace from the steel cowl which fits perfectly inside,drill matching holes in the glass cowl, and just bolt it all together. I'll use the original firewall, although I will most likely have to cut most of it away. Then I'll build a subframe for the whole works to tie it all together.
captainjunk
Member
im liking the build pretty cool
