It finally rolls and steers!

[TrackTV6]

View attachment 6473View attachment 6473View attachment 6473 View attachment 6473 It sure feels like you are making headway when it will finally roll and steer!

 

[RPM]

That looks great, very nice job. I do have a question though, with that long pitman arm, how easy is it to steer and how quick does it steer?

 

[fluidfloyd]

I'm also concerned about that long pitman arm being slined at an angle. As it swings on an arc front to rear it will also swing in a horizonal arc. May not be an issue but I would sure check it out before making any high speed turning test. Also in looking at the front suspension links it appears that the frame brackets are much thinner then the axle batwings. I personally like to see everything in a double shear design. While the bolt is in double shear the rodend is putting a bending load on the bolt. Now on to the rear shock mounts. This is in my opinion the correct way to mount them. Most people mount then with the bolts running front to rear. As the axle housing swings though a vertical arc the bolts and shock eyes are put in a bending load or bind.. As you have them now lets the shock eye turn or pivot around the bolt correctly. I know I'll catch some stactic over this but just think it through. Load ratings on bolts used for the weight are one thing but when you hit that deep pot hole out of nowhere you can easily exceed the yield strength of your fastner and cause it to bend or even break. Hope this will be of some use to you.

George

 

[putz]

Looks great. Might want to add safety washers to your tie rod ends.

 

[TrackTV6]

Safety washers?

 

[RPM]

Safety washers?

oh no not again

 

[Keeper]

You have any pics of the inside? Curious how you attached the body and how the floor will go in.

I wanted to build an inside frame like that but could not figure out how to get the body on.

A safety washer is a large washer placed over the heim joint to keep it in place in case of failure, if you look at my steering arm here you will see one:

 

[TrackTV6]

I have six 1/2-20 threaded sleeves welded into the frame where the steering box/dash support mounts and four 7/16-24 threaded sleeves welded in the frame in the rear of the body under the seat area. I'm using 3/4" marine grade plywood that will be glassed in.

 

[EX JUNK]

Safety washers?

Here is an explanation according to the NSRA Safety hand book.

Jim

 

[TrackTV6]

I'm just guessing that the NSRA wrote that safety handbook for people that don't understand that you don't axially load heims ends or for those that buy cheap quality heims? I have race quality heims, installed correctly, so no "safety" washers.

 

[lincolnuT]

I have High Quality heims because you don't skimp on the steering or brakes and I still put some high quality 'safety washer's on my bucket thank you.................I might add that mine are installed correctly also.............

Mike

 

[Chief-T]

I have High Quality heims because you don't skimp on the steering or brakes and I still put some high quality 'safety washer's on my bucket thank you.................I might add that mine are installed correctly also.............

Mike

X2

 

[Keeper]

I have six 1/2-20 threaded sleeves welded into the frame where the steering box/dash support mounts and four 7/16-24 threaded sleeves welded in the frame in the rear of the body under the seat area. I'm using 3/4" marine grade plywood that will be glassed in.

Okay I thought the cage there was welded in. I did not see that it bolted in. Makes more sense now.

As for the safety washers, anything can fail, a couple washers are cheap insurance.

 

[Track-T]

looks very nice....But, I think the front end will move more then you planned, It
looks like it will hit the nose.
My pitman arm is long also,I made it that way so I can cut it if the steerings too fast.
easier to cut then add.

 

[TrackTV6]

looks very nice....But, I think the front end will move more then you planned, It
looks like it will hit the nose.
My pitman arm is long also,I made it that way so I can cut it if the steerings too fast.
easier to cut then add.

At this point the nose is just sitting on there, I still need to bend the tubing that will support it and also serve as my shock mounts and the radiator mount. The steering box I have is about 25 to 1 ratio. I bought it for its slow steering and also the ease of which it will steer. Its from a Taylor-Dunn electric truck, made by Saginaw, so all the bearings and the seal are easy to aquire.

 

[TrackTV6]

I'm also concerned about that long pitman arm being slined at an angle. As it swings on an arc front to rear it will also swing in a horizonal arc. May not be an issue but I would sure check it out before making any high speed turning test. Also in looking at the front suspension links it appears that the frame brackets are much thinner then the axle batwings. I personally like to see everything in a double shear design. While the bolt is in double shear the rodend is putting a bending load on the bolt. Now on to the rear shock mounts. This is in my opinion the correct way to mount them. Most people mount then with the bolts running front to rear. As the axle housing swings though a vertical arc the bolts and shock eyes are put in a bending load or bind.. As you have them now lets the shock eye turn or pivot around the bolt correctly. I know I'll catch some stactic over this but just think it through. Load ratings on bolts used for the weight are one thing but when you hit that deep pot hole out of nowhere you can easily exceed the yield strength of your fastner and cause it to bend or even break. Hope this will be of some use to you.

George

Not exactly sure what the concern is on the pitman arm splines being broached at an angle? As for the lower radius rod mounts, when I take the car apart for paint/powder coating, I'll flip the frame upside down and weld plates front and rear on them to "box" them in.