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Linkage issue

Bubblehead

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Hello folks. I moved the fuel pressure gauge and installed the new butterfly scoop today and I really like the looks of it. I do have one issue I need some advice on. The linkage they provided with the scoop to operate the butterflies is only long enough to reach the front carburetor linkage. The front carburetor is only "in use" at about half throttle due to my set up with the tunnel ram. So, if I go to about half throttle the butterflies will operate fine and open more the further I push the throttle down. I have included s a couple of pictures, what am I doing wrong here or do I just need to get another rod to reach the rear (primary) carburetor? Thanks in advance.
 

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If I were you BB, I'd run a long rod and pick up the rear carbs linkage. The thing will run fine like it is, its not completely airtight....but if you want to open it as the throttle is mashed, the rear carb is the way to go....and is the correct way
Worked on a Altered back in the 70's, and it was hooked to the front carb....and I mean there was very little slack in the linkage. It was a BBC with a 6-71, and wasn't a street toy. Running 5% underdrive. I was using pieces parts from the Offy linkage they had as a tuning aide.
Now, I had the aircleaners out of it, and had it tuned to run open like that.
Weeeeeell, the owner put the filters in, and because I had the scoop opening up a little delayed....he sucked the air cleaners down into the blower and trashed the blower and the motor. Those 2 elements cost him dearly.....
 
Best to hook up carbs 1:1 , get rid of the progressive linkage . After literally years of experimentation[ 3 different sets of carbs, jetting changes , etc.] I found that my 2x4 TR ran much better , plugs showed even color & was much more responsive running 1:1 . A.F.A fuel consumption , it's negligible at best [MAYBE 1/2 m.p.g.]
dave
 
Thanks guys, pretty much what I thought (although I had not thought about getting rid of the progressive linkage which is also a good idea). @ Screaming Metal - I always get a kick out of all your stories and experiences. You've had a heck of a life (in a good way). -Glenn
 
Your options look to be pretty limited. Either you go with a new throttle cable that will allow the front carb to be your primary carb, or you get a length of cold-rolled and make a new linkage rod.

EDIT - SM ninja'ed me. :D

------:notworthy:------
 
Thanks guys, pretty much what I thought (although I had not thought about getting rid of the progressive linkage which is also a good idea). @ Screaming Metal - I always get a kick out of all your stories and experiences. You've had a heck of a life (in a good way). -Glenn
Well BH, I've stuck around racing, I dedicated myself. I seen alot, been thru alot, met alot of good people, alot of them my friends. BUT, as you pay the dues being around racing, the family suffers, and alot of times doesn't survive. Alot of us paid those dues to do the things that we did in racing....
Just my way of paying back some of what I owe to the Performance community for giving me a good life in and around racing....
All the nights trying to fix a hurt motor trying to get thru the finals / piecing together a motor from pieces parts and sleeping on top of the workbench in the trailer while the team installs it / leave one track to get to the other, with barely enough time to get there, and having to fix things when nothings open and out in the middle of NoWhere....trying to keep those points up....
But the folks always show up to watch you race....and to root for their favorite cars.
 
If I were to get rid of the progressive linkage I am assuming I would also have to get someone to re-tune the carbs to run that way right? (a little beyond my expertise at this point). The previous owner had someone tune the car to run in its current configuration (jet work and such). I am willing to change the linkage out and that is something I can handle, but I don't want to mess up how well it is running right now. -Glenn
 
Both your carbs should be fine, there should not be any adjusting, maybe except for the idle speed. Usually with a progressive linkage, your idling off the carb thats actuated by the accelerator cable or rod....which is the rear in your case.
If you look very close at the idle bellcrank screw that goes thru a little alum tab, and the end of it hits the bellcrank on the carb.
IF, they look like there are same # of threads sticking thru. Now, this is for reference only....really doesn't mean shit, cause I've seen the adjustments so jacked up on these, its hard for me not to bust out laughing in the owners face some time....
The only way to tell is if you get the idle screw on the front carb, engage the idle screw with your screwdriver, and turn it a full turn. If it doesn't try to idle up on ya, your idling off the rear carb only. IF IT DOES IDLE UP, turn the screw back where it was, 1 turn back.
If the car runs good like it is, has great response, the tuner knew what he was doing....and the carbs Should be OK. This is no guarantee though....
IF, when you turned that screw and it tried to idle up....you should be able to put a straight linkage on it, and things should work.

If the car idles fine with straight linkage on it....you'll need to pop the throttle and rev the motor. If it doesn't fall on its face and have a big bog/backfire/pop I'd say you need to drive it and check back with us.
If it has the big pop/backfire/pop....you'll have to tune it out, and thats what we are here for, to take you thru it.

Since your new here....you should have read the post Mike, our leader, posted up top. We've tried to help others by trying to tune it out by what info they gave us. < WHEN WE ASK FOR INFO ON THE CAR< THE MOTOR, WE NEED THAT INFO> If we ask SPECIFIC QUESTIONS, we need SPECIFIC ANSWERS to talk you thru it
Sometimes ther will be several of use trying to help at one time, and we'll bring up a indicaton that maybe someone else missed. We are double-checking ourselves. But usually you'll only have to deal with one or two of us at any particular time. Because we can't be at the computer all the time, we'll hand off on occassions....but we will talk you thru it. ---This is up to you---

Alot can be said about if it ain't screwed up, don't fix it. If your not into tuning....having a car like this is the perfect time to learn how to tune and do your mainteance. If it is beyond your capabilities, have a speed shop/ local car club mechanics look at it and do it for you.
Changing the linkage is straightforward, not a biggie. Tuning can be rather involved and patience/ simple reasoning should get us all thu this without any problems....

BUT, we are here for you, just in case you endeavor to do it yourself. Thats what we're here for....
 
Thanks again Screaming Metal. I did in fact read Mike's post and will heed. I have done some carb work before to include jet work and the like, but I not tried to tune a dual carb motor before. I am relatively handy, but knowing folks are here to help is great. I like to play and learn (as long as I don't break something). Does not sound like there is much I can break in this case.
 
Could you clamp a linkage ball on the connecting rods between the carb and connect the scoop butterflies to it?
You may have to move the red lever 180* to make it move the right direction.
 
Could you clamp a linkage ball on the connecting rods between the carb and connect the scoop butterflies to it?
You may have to move the red lever 180* to make it move the right direction.
Did not know they made linkage balls you could clamp on somewhere like that. Good idea. -Glenn
 
Yep, Like RR said, they have them (ball chains), and you can even get a clevis thats made for them to operate the hat. Some hats are spring loaded, so when the chain goes slack, spring returns it to closed.
The shaft where that red arm clamps down is serrated, you'll see a screw going thru where that slit is, loosen that, and that red arm will slide off. Might be snug now....I've always hooked them up with the lever facing rearward. However you want to do it....chain, rod, hickory stick, baton....
 
You may have to use a slider with a spring if the scoop butterfly linkage bottoms out before the carbs get open, or you can work with the linkage ratios. Be sure to post what you figure out. Nice set up!!
 
Okay, got this fixed this morning (that darn "work" thing gets in the way during the week). I went to Home Depot and they had some 1/4 aluminum rods over in the screw section. I bought a couple of them for $8.00 (never hurts to have extra and you never know when you are going to screw the pooch on the first one). Came home, grabbed my trusty tap and die set. Threaded one end about an inch down with the 1/4-28 and then took it over to the car to get the length right back to the rear carb, cut it off, threaded the other end and it is now good to go! Thanks for all the ideas guys. I might eventually ditch the progressive linkage on the carbs, but it is really running good now and I am not confident I am savvy enough to re-tune the carbs if it needs it afterwards.
 
...(that darn "work" thing gets in the way during the week).
Work really interferes with free time, doesn't it? ;)

I might eventually ditch the progressive linkage on the carbs, but it is really running good now and I am not confident I am savvy enough to re-tune the carbs if it needs it afterwards.
Thou shalt not fix it, if it ain't broke. :D
 

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