Made it to my first Cruise-In Sunday

[Wicked50Coupe]

I myself would fix the springs so it rides great (ft.& Rear) even with a hard seat, then soften up the seat for even more comfort... The stiff springs will just hurt the rest of the chassis and body, things will start falling apart in time, trust me, I know... What you want to end up with is RIDE = disconnect your shocks, stand in the middle of your body and bounce up and down, the whole chassis should move up and down (even both ft. and rear)like a baby carriage, if not, the springs still need reworking till that happens, then reconnect the shocks to tame it back down... This is what any stock good riding car will do... NOTE: make sure you have rubber travel stops so as not to cause U Joint failure when it works real good...:jh:

I definately agree with all that advise. When we drove a Modified dirt track car, the rear end was always to move freely and smooth. If it was in any kind of bind, something was getting bent or snapped off.
I will unhook the shocks and work my way backwards on this. I was pondering travel stops yesterday incase of a spring failure. Then I thought that maybe I was over analyzing things again. If a spring fails, something will drag the road as it sits now though. Unless you are referring to the rubber travel stops for pinion angle, which I shouldn't have an issue - I'm on rear ladder bars with rubber bushing rod ends. ????

 

[iajjpop]

MY ONLY COMMENT IS ENJOY, LOOKS GREAT.................

 

[Ted Brown]

I definately agree with all that advise. When we drove a Modified dirt track car, the rear end was always to move freely and smooth. If it was in any kind of bind, something was getting bent or snapped off.
I will unhook the shocks and work my way backwards on this. I was pondering travel stops yesterday incase of a spring failure. Then I thought that maybe I was over analyzing things again. If a spring fails, something will drag the road as it sits now though. Unless you are referring to the rubber travel stops for pinion angle, which I shouldn't have an issue - I'm on rear ladder bars with rubber bushing rod ends. ????

You can use just one big rubber snubber at the center of the rear end at the bottom of travel, if anythings fails, the frame will only fall to that point, (not far enough to break the U joint)this is also why I use long springs in front, they fit through the two radius rods, so if a leaf breaks it/the frame, will not fall to the ground, just to the bottom radius rod... :jh:

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

You can use just one big rubber snubber at the center of the rear end at the bottom of travel, if anythings fails, the frame will only fall to that point, (not far enough to break the U joint)this is also why I use long springs in front, they fit through the two radius rods, so if a leaf breaks it/the frame, will not fall to the ground, just to the bottom radius rod...

Thanks Ted. I will come up with a way to bump stop my front and rear axles. I've been concerned about what would happen if I broke a spring. I even contemplated using cable tethers. This weekend, I'll be staring at this thing. The front axle has concerned me more actually. :jh:

 

[Ted Brown]

In that pic of your front end, I see a crank guide (plate) under the U bolts on top, that hold your spring... Just make a new plate using 3/8 to 1/2" material that extends out over your front axle, make it long enough for adjustment (cut it to length when finished) keep it as wide as fits between the U bolts, and leave short tips extending bast the U blots on each side, so you can weld a short tab to each end, to make sure the plate will never come out of that U bolt setup, locks it in so to speak, you can make this look neat if you think about it... anyway, you will have to heat and bent that long tab that extends out over the axle up enough for clearance with a rubber snubber bolted under that tab with enough room for the frame to work, all should end just before the shocks run out, as you do not want the shocks to ever bottom out as that will kill them and end up tearing the top shock mounts out of the frame... This safety stop can also double as a front plate mount, which can hide most of that setup... Mine is this way...

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

In that pic of your front end, I see a crank guide (plate) under the U bolts on top, that hold your spring... Just make a new plate using 3/8 to 1/2" material that extends out over your front axle, make it long enough for adjustment (cut it to length when finished) keep it as wide as fits between the U bolts, and leave short tips extending bast the U blots on each side, so you can weld a short tab to each end, to make sure the plate will never come out of that U bolt setup, locks it in so to speak, you can make this look neat if you think about it... anyway, you will have to heat and bent that long tab that extends out over the axle up enough for clearance with a rubber snubber bolted under that tab with enough room for the frame to work, all should end just before the shocks run out, as you do not want the shocks to ever bottom out as that will kill them and end up tearing the top shock mounts out of the frame... This safety stop can also double as a front plate mount, which can hide most of that setup... Mine is this way...

That is a great idea. I can gusset the mount with drilled side plates, and make it look kindof like a suicide spring mount. The rear, I'd probably have to make one for each side on the frame rails. I'll keep you posted, thanks for the ideas!!

 

[Youngster]

Your frnt end is very solid. If your front spring is not pitted I wouldn't worry about breakage. If it is replace the main leaf and let it go at that.As far as the rear goes, if it's not bottomin out, I wouldn't worry about it either. You did a good job on the fabricating. It's well built. Now just enjoy it.

Ron

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

Your frnt end is very solid. If your front spring is not pitted I wouldn't worry about breakage. If it is replace the main leaf and let it go at that.As far as the rear goes, if it's not bottomin out, I wouldn't worry about it either. You did a good job on the fabricating. It's well built. Now just enjoy it.

Ron

The front spring is new. You noticed that bolting shackle hangers, etc. wasn't good enough? I couldn't stand it until I welded everything also. I am being a little obscessive. :jh:

 

[Youngster]

I noticed .... Mr. Obsecessive ... LOL

Ron

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

I noticed .... Mr. Obsecessive ... LOL

Ron

I know, just ran out of welder wire again last night. Wonder why?

 

[one finger john]

I noticed .... Mr. Obsecessive ... LOL

Ron

Wicked50Coupe sounds like a belt AND suspenders kind of guy. Nothing wrong with that.

John

 

[Ted Brown]

Welding the spring hanger for peace of mind is no problem, after driving it at least once so that everything is settled in straight, no twist to the main leaf at all... because that twisting can cause leaf failure, not saying it will, just that it can, I have seen it happen myself even with new springs, side binding in springs is never a good thing... Drive safe

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

I'm still here, nothing's broke yet. Goes down the road real nice and straight. Only thing is, probably need a longer pitman arm. I'm doing a lot of double steering to get the car straightened back out on my right turns.