Motor Oil

[railroad]

Now that the govt has encouraged oil manufacturers to remove the zinc and phosphates from motor oil, what are you guys running in your flat tappet engines?
I added a bottle of Comp Cams break in additive on the last round of oil changes, but
would like to avoid the $10 added cost and find something still on the shelf that has the zddp additive package. I checked the stock at Walmart and even the diesel oil has been cut back. By the way, I have read that the SM in the label indicates the zddp has been removed.

Railroad

Any trip home, not on the wrecker, is a good one.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

I see a lot of folks over on Hotrodders.com recommending Rotella oil for diesels. Apparently is still has the desirable additives and is safe to run in a gasoline engine. Don't know from personal experience... just what I read.

 

[409T]

I've been using Brad Penn 30 W for break-in, and Brad Penn 20-50 for everyday driving. There are others out there that also have high zinc content, but off the shelf I believe you want SL rating or earlier, which may not be around any more.

Jeff

 

[EX JUNK]

We had a time trying to find oil with zinc for our new Bonneville engine. We finally ended up going with Joe Gibbs Racing Oil. As they say, "if you want to play, you'll have to pay!" Nobody ever said racing was cheap.

Jim

P.S. Here are the specs on the oil:

Specifically designed for breaking in engines and flat tappet camshafts and lifters, BR break-in oil provides high levels of Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulfur in a mineral base oil. BR protects flat-tappet camshafts and lifters during break-in and it provides excellent ring seal. Combined with Joe Gibbs Driven Engine Assembly Grease, BR provides the highest levels of protection for camshafts, lifters, wrist pins, distributor gears, push rods and valve retainers. BR is fully formulated and requires no EOS or other additives. BR should be pre-heated to 180F before firing the engine for maximum protection. Because it is a 15W-50, BR can be used for up to 2 hours of break-in/dyno time before changing to race oil.


Image
Item
Qty
Details
Amount
$89.88
00107
BR Case of 12 Quarts0


$0.00

$149.80
00117
BR 5 Gallon Pail


Joe Gibbs Racing uses XP1 synthetic engine oil in short-track and intermediate speedway engines. XP1 features a proven additive package designed to protect a flat-tappet camshaft turning over 9,000 RPM, and XP1 utilizes multiple high film strength base oils capable of protecting an 850 horsepower engine operating at 240F. XP1 can be used in any racing engine that calls for a SAE 30 weight viscosity. Designed for clearances under .0024, XP1 works well in stock GM crate engines engines, NASCAR Spec Engines and dry-sump, iron block engines. XP1 performs the best in engines operating with oil temperatures between 180F and 240F.


Image
Item
Qty
Details
Amount
$173.88
00007
XP1 Case of 12 Quarts0


$0.00

$289.80
00015

 

[FastEddie59]

Hey Railroad, Try Valvoline ZR1, it has the ZDDP additive in it off the shelf, but it isn't cheap, pay now or pay later. Might do like I'm considering and install a hydraulic retro fit roller cam in it, won't need the zinc then, but still leaves valve guides and and seats vunerable to an extent if they haven't been replaced with ones that don't need it. Another place big brother is sticking his nose where it doesn't belong, Eddie

 

[dustytrails]

i have been useing shell rotella t 30 weight for 2 years now ,no problem its recondmended by comp cams

 

[Screaming Metal]

We had a time trying to find oil with zinc for our new Bonneville engine. We finally ended up going with Joe Gibbs Racing Oil. As they say, "if you want to play, you'll have to pay!" Nobody ever said racing was cheap.

Jim

P.S. Here are the specs on the oil:

Specifically designed for breaking in engines and flat tappet camshafts and lifters, BR break-in oil provides high levels of Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulfur in a mineral base oil. BR protects flat-tappet camshafts and lifters during break-in and it provides excellent ring seal. Combined with Joe Gibbs Driven Engine Assembly Grease, BR provides the highest levels of protection for camshafts, lifters, wrist pins, distributor gears, push rods and valve retainers. BR is fully formulated and requires no EOS or other additives. BR should be pre-heated to 180F before firing the engine for maximum protection. Because it is a 15W-50, BR can be used for up to 2 hours of break-in/dyno time before changing to race oil.


Image
Item
Qty
Details
Amount
$89.88
00107
BR Case of 12 Quarts0


$0.00

$149.80
00117
BR 5 Gallon Pail


Joe Gibbs Racing uses XP1 synthetic engine oil in short-track and intermediate speedway engines. XP1 features a proven additive package designed to protect a flat-tappet camshaft turning over 9,000 RPM, and XP1 utilizes multiple high film strength base oils capable of protecting an 850 horsepower engine operating at 240F. XP1 can be used in any racing engine that calls for a SAE 30 weight viscosity. Designed for clearances under .0024, XP1 works well in stock GM crate engines engines, NASCAR Spec Engines and dry-sump, iron block engines. XP1 performs the best in engines operating with oil temperatures between 180F and 240F.


Image
Item
Qty
Details
Amount
$173.88
00007
XP1 Case of 12 Quarts0


$0.00

$289.80
00015

And ALSO quote the gentleman in the next reply aslo!!!!!!!

Speaking from 20 + years experience..........I mix a complete chanxe of Castrol GTX 20W-50 with a 1/2 can of Lubriplate 105. After breakin.......I change to Valvoline 20-50 with a reallygood engine additive thereafter...... Have never had a failure due to lub. problems.........

The Gov. is taking out the 'goodie' that helps lube....its a shame.....its just more expensive to get your additive and add it back in.............

Full synth. is the way to go.....it'll run longer and hotter without breakdown..............

 

[rooster57]

What about all the stuff that gets advertised to death on the weekend Zmax and the rest of those items.????

 

[donsrods]

I run Rotella T during and after break in. For break in we add some Comp Cams additive. I work in the marine industry and most diesel engines that work hard are using Rotella T.

Don

 

[benT]

:thumb:Rotella T for us also--you can buy it pretty cheap at Walmart or anywhere else.

 

[Screaming Metal]

What about all the stuff that gets advertised to death on the weekend Zmax and the rest of those items.????

Hey Rooster....I haven't ever used any myself or my customers......Some people have said its pretty good.....its hard to go wrong withwhat folks haveused and know works.....Like Rotella....Good stuff!

Its hard to beat any good quality oils like Castrol and the Valvoline 20W50 Racing oils......they don't break down as fast. Royal Purple is fantastic.....some folks can't stomach the price.....its high.....and I'm afraid this stuff is gonna get a lot more so, I mean oil in general. Royal Purple has been around a fairly long tome.....alot of racers swear by it.....I do too.....but its expensive.......Remember the old television commercial,' You can pay me now or pay me later?'.....its like that......going cheap on lube stuff is a no-no!!!!!!

My Advice to anyone out there......go synthetic or synth. mix. The Folks at DonsRods have a good thing going.....getting a high Qual. heavyDuty oil and adding a anti-wear compound to it...............thats the way to go it ya gonna mix-your-own..........

 

[Wild Mango]

Yep Rotella T or Rimula 10-40 all good stuff. The Zinc is death on cat converters which is why its out of petrol engine oil. Diesel oils tend to have a higher film strength and more detergent to keep those hydraulic tappets unblocked and clack free as well.

 

[Ted Brown]

I always add 1 qt of tranny fluid to an oil change, great for Hyd. lifters, keeps things very clean, change your filter twice to every oil change, or more... Let's face it, everything is going out of sight as far as prices go..

 

[Telman2]

I've been using royal purple for the past couple of years with great success. Yes it's on the expensive side but living in northern Illinois puts a real damper on our driving season. I don't get to put a lot of miles on the old girl so 2 or 3 oil changes a year don't hurt that bad.

 

[blownt]

I use Rotella but next time I am gonna try the Driven oil by Joe Gibbs. He sends me a Driven newsletter all the time and I think I will try it. There is a distributor down the street from me. They make several types of oils, got a break-in oil, a qualifying oil, several racing oils, and also the street rod oil.

 

[Wild Mango]

Hey Ted, what sort of tranny fluid do you use?

 

[Ted Brown]

Hey Ted, what sort of tranny fluid do you use?

Standard GM, seems to work just fine, it is the best detergent oil you can buy, so they say... (it burns) also works wonders on old engines that have been sitting around, fire it up and slowly dribble it into the carb, keep the revs up, it smokes like the devil, but frees everything up, valves, lifters, etc. a very cheap tune-up use a cup or two.. if you have lifters that are clicking, like the older Olds engines, drain all the oil and refill completely 5 QTS. with tranny fluid, drive it easy for a wek or so, everything will be like new, lifters will now be quiet.

 

[t-4-2]

I used Brad Penn 30wt for break in and then changed to Valvoline ZR1 20-50 Racing oil. It is cheaper than Brad Penn and still has the high zinc that flat tappet cams need. It is available at most auto parts store. Brad Penn oil is sometimes hard to find and this is a comparable replacement for it. Good luck with what ever oil you choose, as said in another post, pay now or pay later.

 

[blownt]

I use Ford type trans fluid. Dextron (GM) has additives to soften the shifts which I do not care for when I am in the bucket. Truth is I cannot tell that much difference between Dextron or Ford in my bucket. Other than that, trans fluid is the same. But now that I have a full manual valvebody it shifts hard anyway.