tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Do they make a clear powder coat or will it be.... paint?
My First T-Bucket Build
- Thread starter cmcdanl
- Start date
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I used the clear pc over my frame. The frame was a rough surface metallic finish. The clear smoothed it out, and give it a deeper look.
benT
Active Member
Clear is used in powder coating for several reasons:
1. Some silvers and metallics require it as they are not UV stable.
2. Some colors require it as second stage of the coating. The color won't come out till the clear is applied
3. Adds durability and depth to some colors. While many of the single stage colors don't require it, like other paints, the clear will give extra protection and depth to it. Note that like paint, you can get clears in different formulas and gloss. You can apply a satin or flat clear if that is the look you're wanting. We powder coat a lot of wheels and I recommend adding clear to single stage colors for more protection.
1. Some silvers and metallics require it as they are not UV stable.
2. Some colors require it as second stage of the coating. The color won't come out till the clear is applied
3. Adds durability and depth to some colors. While many of the single stage colors don't require it, like other paints, the clear will give extra protection and depth to it. Note that like paint, you can get clears in different formulas and gloss. You can apply a satin or flat clear if that is the look you're wanting. We powder coat a lot of wheels and I recommend adding clear to single stage colors for more protection.
cmcdanl
Member
I got the frame back from powdercoat and started assembly again. It looks much better this time around. They put a primer coat on first and then the black coat. That's not the typical way but they did it this way to ensure that there weren't any rust through spots this time. Just an extra layer of protection. They think the problem was the type of powder we used the first time since it's the powder I purchased and have been using on my smaller parts. I wanted it to match. So they also used a different type of black powder this time. Anyways, it looks really good and I'm satisfied. I powder coated the spindles this weekend and also painted the leaf springs. Sorry I forgot to take pictures of those. This thing should be a roller soon! Hopefully by next week.
What kind of paint will you use on the engine?
cmcdanl
Member
Thanks! Well when I first pulled the engine I cleaned it and sprayed it with some cheap black engine spray paint. I wasn't planning on doing a nice paint job, but I have since changed my mind. So I think I'm going to strip all of that off and paint it with the same paint I used on the suspension parts (Black SS urethane from Summit). Or I might do a combination of the black and the dark red color I'm going to paint the body. I'm not too sure about the colors yet but I'm definitely planning to strip the engine and paint it with the single stage urethane I have. Got any suggestions? Do you think the engine would look better all black or would you paint the block the same as the body?
cmcdanl
Member
I have a leaf spring that is going in the back also. It's just not installed yet because I was painting it yesterday. They are installed on a motorcycle in single shear. I know that's less weight, but with the help of the leaf spring I don't think it will be a problem. The leaf spring should take most of the load I think. Plus I'm going to use Grade 8 bolts.
EX JUNK
Moderator
Personally, on all my rides I paint the engine to match the interior. On the T it looks really good with the exposed engine and interior. IMHO
Jim
cmcdanl
Member
I got a lot done on the car over the Thanksgiving break. When I painted all of the suspension parts, somehow I forgot about the spindles and tie rod so that has been holding me up. I got the spindles powder coated this weekend and was able to assemble the front end and got the rear finished up with the leaf spring. The Tie rod is not painted yet. I plan on making a new one so that will come later. At least now I can roll it out of the garage if I need to paint anything. I also powder coated some smaller parts yesterday; Brake pedal assembly, and tail light mounts. Here are some pictures.
cmcdanl
Member
Also, I have an issue with the drivers side disk brake assembly. I'm hoping someone here might have a suggestion or an idea. I'm not able to tighten the spindle nut tight enough. The rotor contacts the inside brake pad too soon. So if I tighten it where it should be, the wheel will not turn because it's basically applying the brakes. So if I loosen the spindle nut far enough out to where the rotor is able to spin some, then I can wobble the rotor back and forth with my hand. That's obviously not good. It's like the caliper mount is too close to the rotor. It mounts on the rotor side of the spindle, so it's not like I can put spacers in there to move it out some, that would only move it closer. I unfortunately didn't get a picture but I can probably get one this weekend if it will help. If anyone has any suggestions, please send them my way, thanks!
cmcdanl
Member
Its a disc brake kit from Speedway. Part # 91031945. 1978 - 88 GM caliper to early ford spindle. It comes with the bearings, adapters, calipers, brackets... everything is included in the kit except the spindles. The spindles I have are original and came from a 37-48 Ford passenger car. Not sure the exact year. Below is the link to the disc brake kit.
Disc Brake Kit, 1978-88 GM Caliper to Early Ford Spindle, 5 on 4-1/2In
Disc Brake Kit, 1978-88 GM Caliper to Early Ford Spindle, 5 on 4-1/2In
cmcdanl
Member
The brake pad actually goes between the bracket and the rotor also, so moving the actual caliper further back will not correct the problem unfortunately. The only thing I can think of right now would be to get the bracket mounting surface milled down some to give it more clearance.
cmcdanl
Member
Haha, well hopefully you don't run into this issue. I'm wondering if it's because I'm using original spindles. To elaborate a little on my previous comment for anyone else reading.... the problem is that the brake pad will not fit between the caliper bracket and the rotor. The caliper moves back and forth allowing for room. I'll see if I can get some pictures this weekend.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
One stupid question. Is the piston fully down in the caliper? Just thinking!
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