My first T build.
- Thread starter smokeyco75
- Start date
smokeyco75
Member
Lol Ron. It is a Rock Island 1911 clone. It has the double stack frame like a Para P-14. I only paid $370 for it new. I just need to get the upper motor mounts and that crossmember from you so I can set it in the frame. Hope you are enjoying Florida.
TriodeLuvr
Member
Only if your tire(s) slip a lot.
smokeyco75
Member
Yeah I'll probably have to look for a turbo 400 and a different rear end too. I doubt an S-10 rear would survive long.
Went and hung out with Meangreen for a spell this afternoon and he offered to let me take my wife for a ride in his track T roadster. Needless to say she enjoyed it and is more enthusiastic about my project now. It is a special person who just tosses you the keys to his hot rod that he worked long and hard to build with complete trust that I would take good care of it. Thank you Jim. I am in your debt.
Went and hung out with Meangreen for a spell this afternoon and he offered to let me take my wife for a ride in his track T roadster. Needless to say she enjoyed it and is more enthusiastic about my project now. It is a special person who just tosses you the keys to his hot rod that he worked long and hard to build with complete trust that I would take good care of it. Thank you Jim. I am in your debt.
meangreen
Active Member
You're welcome, Smokey. I'm always glad to help a fellow rodder. Besides, I've known you long enough that I was pretty confident you weren't going to do anything stupid to put my toy at risk.
As for your transmission, if that big block is "built" or maybe you put a blower on it and some "monster meat" tires on the rear you might want to opt for a 700R4 and a Ford 9-inch. However, if you're just running that big block in its relatively stock, mild mannered form, a Turbo 350 is plenty stout enough for such a light car. All you need now is a front axle assembly and you can put that thing on wheels...
As for your transmission, if that big block is "built" or maybe you put a blower on it and some "monster meat" tires on the rear you might want to opt for a 700R4 and a Ford 9-inch. However, if you're just running that big block in its relatively stock, mild mannered form, a Turbo 350 is plenty stout enough for such a light car. All you need now is a front axle assembly and you can put that thing on wheels...
smokeyco75
Member
Heck yes! My bucket will officially be big block powered! I was wrong on the miles. Its an 87 and only 86,000 miles on it. Needs gaskets and seals because it is a leaky one but that gives me an excuse to put a cam and gear drive in it lol.
smokeyco75
Member
A friend and local transmission guy assures me if I bring him a th350 he can build it to handle a bigblock. With as light as this car will be I dont think it will be an issue unless I can get it to hook up. Probably just be a tire roaster when I get froggy which wont be that often.
I would post some pics but I cant seem to get them from photo bucket to here on my phone.
I would post some pics but I cant seem to get them from photo bucket to here on my phone.
Hackerbilt
Active Member
My T is 454 powered...mild cam, 2200ish converter, 10 bolt 3.42 Trans Am rearend...T350 trans.
This is my first year owning it, but I've known the car for a number of years and the T350 has been fine even though its been worked hard at times.
If it ever gives trouble I will simply get it rebuilt.
This is my first year owning it, but I've known the car for a number of years and the T350 has been fine even though its been worked hard at times.
If it ever gives trouble I will simply get it rebuilt.
smokeyco75
Member
Update; I set the frame at ride height and positioned the rear axle where I want it. I finished mocking up the lift bars and making all the cuts. I also have the "batwings" ready to cut and drill. Just need to drill the holes in the lift bars and tack weld everything together. The distance from the floor to the lowest part of the lift bar is 6*1/2 inches. Should be plenty of room. Once my package of parts from Ron arrives I will be able to finish these lift bars and move on to the rest of the rear suspension.
Figured I would throw in a pic of the 454 I aquired as well.
Figured I would throw in a pic of the 454 I aquired as well.
smokeyco75
Member
Lol I had to improvise until I could get to the store for metric lugnuts.
A lift bar does basically the same as ladder bars or radius rods. They are typically made of a single rectangular tube. Some designs are less adjustable than others. Mine will be non adjustable since I won't be racing this pig. If you like I will post pics once mine are all welded up. If Meangreen chimes in here he has pics of the ones he built for his coupe.
A lift bar does basically the same as ladder bars or radius rods. They are typically made of a single rectangular tube. Some designs are less adjustable than others. Mine will be non adjustable since I won't be racing this pig. If you like I will post pics once mine are all welded up. If Meangreen chimes in here he has pics o
f the ones he built for his coupe.
Yes, that would be great!If you like I will post pics once mine are all welded up. If Meangreen chimes in here he has pics o
meangreen
Active Member
Lift bars are a type of rear radius rod. Sometimes they are called "truck arms", but truck arms (as used in NASCAR stock cars) are longer and usually are angled toward each other. Lift bars generally run straight forward from the rear axle and are attached directly under or beside the frame rails. They can be any length, but if they are too short they provide a choppy ride. I like to make them at least 36 inches from the rear axle center to the front pivot point. Positioning of the bars is critical during chassis construction because they have little or no adjustment. The good features of lift bars are their strength and their launch-ability. If they are properly built they can withstand enormous horsepower and repeated launches. Ring gears and axles will break before a properly built set of lift bars. The launch capability comes from the leverage provided by the relatively short length and rigidity; when you stomp the "loud pedal", the rear axle torque pushes the tires down against the pavement while lifting the chassis for weight transfer. I mount my bars with rubber bushings in the rear brackets so there can be some flexibility. Rigid mounting is OK for straight-line-only racing (drag racing or salt flats), but not good for the street.
The good features of lift bars are their strength and their launch-ability. If they are properly built they can withstand enormous horsepower and repeated launches. Ring gears and axles will break before a properly built set of lift bars. The launch capability comes from the leverage provided by the relatively short length and rigidity; when you stomp the "loud pedal", the rear axle torque pushes the tires down against the pavement while lifting the chassis for weight transfer. I mount my bars with rubber bushings in the rear brackets so there can be some flexibility. Rigid mounting is OK for straight-line-only racing (drag racing or salt flats), but not good for the street. 
Lift bars are a type of rear radius rod. Sometimes they are called "truck arms", but truck arms (as used in NASCAR stock cars) are longer and usually are angled toward each other. Lift bars generally run straight forward from the rear axle and are attached directly under or beside the frame rails. They can be any length, but if they are too short they provide a choppy ride. I like to make them at least 36 inches from the rear axle center to the front pivot point. Positioning of the bars is critical during chassis construction because they have little or no adjustment.
View attachment 9916 View attachment 9917
They are essentially the same as slapper bars on a car with leaf springs to stop the springs from wrapping or flexing, which would plant the tires and raise the rear of the car.
Some old technology is hard to beat when proven it works.. Some aint as pretty as others though. JMTW
smokeyco75
Member
Just a quick post of a pic of one of the lift bars I am fabricating. Still have to weld it and drill holes but this will give you folks an idea of what they will look like.
There will be four two inch holes drilled along the length of them to add some character. My axle plates are 3/16 and there will be two for each lift bar. It will be very close to how Meangrean made his, which is who I got the idea from.
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