My ProjecTee

[DonnyRay]

Good advice. I laid 3 layers of cloth & I used wax paper as a release agent. After what I've experienced using wax paper , I say DO NOT USE WAX PAPER. Tomorrow I'm going to add 3 or 4 layers of 1 1/2 oz fiberglass mat. I'll flip the roof over & repair the damage caused by the wax paper. Here is some photos to give you a visual of the damage. For the rest of the glassing job i'll sand the mock windshield ; apply some white enamel paint & use car wax instead of wax paper.

 

[DonnyRay]

Can everybody say " OUCH !! " ? I plan to sand away the extra resin then add layers or 1 1/2 oz. fiberglass matte. I'm using a slow hardener. It gives me a pot life of 30 minutes & can be used at temperatures as low as 40 degrees. The cure time is about 5 hours.

 

[2old2fast]

Clear packing tape & shrink wrap both release easily..

 

[DonnyRay]

I might also use mold release ( depending on price ). I'll see what tap plastics wants for theirs. I was told that carnauba wax will work.

 

[Gerry]

Mould makers wax sheets. On ebay. Its what the pros use and for the cost, saves so much trouble. Available in numerous thickness you only need the thin stuff to get a smooth trouble free release.

Its the brown sheet with the detail in the middle.

 

[DonnyRay]

Today I sanded down the high spots caused by wax paper warpage. I laid in a piece of 2 oz. matte. The area is looking good now. I'll take some photos tomorrow after I lay down another layer of the 2 oz. matte.

 

[2old2fast]

Don't forget that if you paint over matte with out any filler , the fibers WILL end up showing through ...

 

[DonnyRay]

hi 2old2fast ; i'll remember that when i'm doing the outside of the roof. The inside will be upholstered , so i'm not worried about the fiber showing in that area.

 

[DonnyRay]

Hey 2old2fast , would clear coat also work ?

 

[DonnyRay]

I laid in another 2 oz. matte strip . In the area near the back I laid a patch across. I overlapped the back patch by 3"s with 2 oz. matte also. I also took a photo of the tool I used to cut the roof into 2 halves. I'm also sanding between layers. I'm using 80 grit sandpaper.

 

[DonnyRay]

I apologize for the upside down photo. The cutting accessory is for dry wall ( sheet rock ). I bought this at harbor freight.

 

[fletcherson]

Feather fill is what I used in place of gel coat to seal the glass and provide a workable surface and the fibers won’t show through. If your not familiar with it, it’s a two part high build sandable primer, sort of a sprayable body filler, used in auto body repairs, etc...

 

[Neshkoro]

That's a great tool from Harbor Freight. It's the only tool I know that can cut a (small) square hole in a piece of wood using just one tool!

 

[DonnyRay]

My sister & brother & I are converting a spare bedroom into a 1/2 bath & laundry room. I originally bought the tool for drywall cutting. It will also cut wood & plastic.

 

[DonnyRay]

I can't buy anymore resin & hardener until the end of this month. I get a retirement check every 1st of the month. I also get a social security check every 2nd Tuesday of each month. So..... I shortened my driveline.. I used a cut off saw & did my cuts in 1/2 inch increments. I would cut down to about 1/2 inch then I would raise the cutting wheel & then cut a 1/2 inch deeper. This method was repeated until I finally cut through the driveline. I didn't want the cutting wheel to flex & cause an angled cut. I removed the weld at the front yoke with a hand held grinder. Then I used a small level & placed it on the high end of the of the rear yoke ( on top of the needle bearing cup). Once I centered the bubble in the level , I tightened it down in my vise. I then pushed the front yoke into the driveline & leveled it. After both ends were level , I spot welded around the circumference to hold everything in place. I carried it to Leroy's shop & took some photos for everyone to see.

 

[RPM]

You need to check that for run out. Needs to be less then .010" run out. Any more and it will vibrate.

 

[DonnyRay]

I haven't welded it yet. I have a game plan for making sure the front yoke is true ( straight ) & level with the rear yoke.

 

[Neshkoro]

Funny thing , when I cut and welded my drive shaft, I had the yokes turned 90 degrees from each other. The first drive had me "bunny hopping" down the road. Live and learn!

 

[fletcherson]

If you’re unsure about truing it, it’s usually not real expensive to have em done. Napa or a truck clutch and driveline shop usually are capeable... I’ve done many over the years with no issues but cutting the tube square and getting the yoke groove clean is key. A lathe is your friend but it can be done with hand tools.

 

[DonnyRay]

I believe this is driveline # 3 for me. I'll still have to get it balanced when I am through shortening & leveling & welding.