My ProjecTee
- Thread starter DonnyRay
- Start date
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
The top photos shows where i plan to place the cupholder/ storage pocket on the door. The middle photo shows the encapsulation of the cup holder/storage pocket. The bottom photo show the door latch assembly ( the top piece is going to be removable to access the door handle ). The cupholder/storage pocket is captured in fiberglass. I had doubts about the resin adhering to the plastic cupholder/storage pocket. I DO KNOW fiberglass will adhere to fiberglass.
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DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
Thanks Spanky , Dwsatt & Rbswelder. I'm very pleased with the results. I use angle iron & 3" wide fiberglass tape to make my angleglass. Think "V " shaped fiberglass. I use 3 layers of the 3" fiberglass tape. I also use an aerosol can containing a non-stick chemical which i purchase from Tap Plastics.
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I've always considered fiberglass an art... one I have never mastered, mainly because of the variables (temp, time, volumes, hardeners, etc...)
Even after having watched a plethora of YouTube videos, the process was touchy when I redid my floor.
I ended up grinding off the bad parts and redoing a few spots.
Even after having watched a plethora of YouTube videos, the process was touchy when I redid my floor.
I ended up grinding off the bad parts and redoing a few spots.
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
I use about 55 percent of the required hardener. The resin i use requires 10 drops of hardener per 1 ounce of resin. 5 drops of hardener would be half of the required amount' I would use 7 drops. 5 drops ( half the required amount ) & 2 more. In 2 ounces of resin i would use 10 drops + 2 or 3 more drops. With the local temperatures being close to 100 degrees , this method gives me about 20 minutes to lay my glass. The resin mixture will set up in about 1 1/2 hours. It's thoroughly cured in 24 hrs ( from the time you originally laid the glass ). TAP plastics has some resin that's called SLOW RESIN . It will work when the ambient temperature is as low as 40 degrees. PS: By using less hardener , i am increasing my time to lay up the fiberglass. If you get in a hurry ; you make mistakes & end up with a sloppy job. The drawback to increasing your working time is , you also increase your curing time. Hope this helps.
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
Thanks Spanky & James Louis. Here's some more photos : The striker plate has been located in the door well. I used black silicone glue to hold the striker plate ( temporarily ) in place. When the black silicone glue sets up , i'll open the door & mark around the striker plate. Then i'll remove the striker plate & cut out where i previously marked. I plan to countersink the striker plate.
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choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I some times use modeling clay to hold things in place for marking and fit.
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
I removed the door from the door well. I removed the black silicone excess from around the striker plate. I marked around the striker with a fresh ( new ) black sharpie. I removed the striker plate from the door well. Tomorrow i'll drill 6 holes in the striker plate ( with my drill press ). I'll spray pol - ease 2300 on the striker plate. Then countersinking the striker plate will begin. PS: The recessed pocket in the striker plate was made by using C CHANNEL. The dimensions of the c channel are : 1 in. Wide x 1/2 in. Tall X 2 in. Long x 1/8 in. Thick .
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
More chainsaw progress photos:
I added a pull start handle. So far , i have 2 colors on it.
The 2 grab handles are going to be black. The gas filler cap is blue ( came from an "agua fina" water bottle ). I have light orange colored ( stick on letters ) they will spell out , " KILS ALL ". They will be attached to the cover.
I added a pull start handle. So far , i have 2 colors on it. The 2 grab handles are going to be black. The gas filler cap is blue ( came from an "agua fina" water bottle ). I have light orange colored ( stick on letters ) they will spell out , " KILS ALL ". They will be attached to the cover.
