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Mykk's BMW V8 T-bucket, version 1.5:

Adapting aftermarket ITB's from a different application. After some cutting & grinding and making spacers I'll be able to get these manifolds to bolt down to the BMW heads. I even like the short stacks.



 
Picked up an BMW E38/E39 Getrag 420G 6-speed manual with the V8 bellhousing, I'm thankful to have found one. I was nervous about locating one.
Good going, Mykk! I'm sure they don't grow on trees. Did you find it at a used parts source of from an individual?
 
The first spring shipped with the axle was too long. 2nd spring came in; correct length. Moving forward on getting the axle, spindles & brakes together. This still isn't ride height as I'm keeping the frame level as things are getting mounted to it.





 
Todays progress was a bust;

Pitman arm doesn't fit the splines of the steering gear:



The driveshaft came in, it has the correct measurement written on it but it actually measures 20 1/4" on the U-joint centers and is to short:








...and finally the steering arm threads are too short to get through the spindle and the caliper mount:





But it appears the actual billiards ball shifter will work out :-)





The steering arm itself is a beautiful piece and I have a few ideas to try to get it to fit this build:

 
Another idea I wanted to try:

The available headers for this engine are sparse, and the ones that do exist are meant to fit in a specific body application and are very expensive. A more talented fabricator would be able to make headers that would work far better than what I have come up with.

Instead, I use headers for an engine that has a similar bore spacing (Ford Modular V8's) and then modify the flanges to bolt to the BMW heads. In the past I've used aftermarket header flanges for the BMW, welded them directly to the Ford header flanges and then clearanced the bolt holes in the ford flanges. It isn't pretty but it worked.

This go-round instead of welding the BMW flanges to the Ford flanges I wanted to try converting the BMW flanges into bolt on adapters. So I've notched the BMW flanges where the Ford bolt holes line up and fitted studs and welded them into place.





A fabricator would've made their own adapters and threaded in studs, but I do what I can with what I've got.



Now to countersink the bolt holes for the cylinder head so they will sit flush.


I know exhaust is a long ways away on this build, however I wanted to experiment with a couple of different mufflers on these headers and bolt them up the currently running Bucket #1 to make a decision on which one's will get permanently welded in place.
 
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There's a great thread from Indycars about building headers. He wanted something different and built his own. Check it out . . .

 
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I completely forgot the alternator hangs way out there, mocked up a dirty timing cover and alternator to see if it cleared the frame:







Clearance is clearance, but I'll grind some wiggle room into the alt mount ear.
 
Today was meant to happen:

Found a 90's BMW V8 for sale a couple of hours south. Went down to go check it out and bring it home. Ended up snagging a 2nd BMW v8 from the seller.



One is an early 90's M60B40 the other is a later 90's M62B44 before BMW added the variable intake cam. The M62TUB44 sitting in the frame is the early 2000's version with the variable intake cam timing.



One has the desirable cams, timing chains and timing idler. The other has the desirable larger displacement. The plan is to use the desirable pieces of each to make one engine.... unless something detrimental has occurred between them. We'll find out on teardown.



The M60B40 also has a smaller case alternator on it, which will help with the frame clearance too. At one point in time I had one of these engines on a stand next to a 426 Hemi. This engine assembly was physically larger then a 426 hemi... yet they only have 244 and 269 cubic inches of displacement.
 
So . . . if I get your drift, you're going to build a hybrid engine using the larger displacement block with the newer cam arrangement and put it in the new bucket. Right?
 
The digital gauge works and is neat in a techie kind of way. But I just didn't like the way it looked...even with the endless custom gauges, fonts, colors, details and graphics that are possible.

I mightbe able to sneak in a set of mechanical gauges in this bezel and have the gauges clear over the top of the tank.



I can even float the bezel with spacers from the dash and that might be a neat effect also.
 

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