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Need advice on my Proposed Fuel System

rbsWELDER

Active Member
All,

I need some advice on my fuel system plan. I am going to be running a blown SBC Chevy. Based on reading you comments on this board, I plan to go with the following hardware setup & fuel flow sequence:
1. Fuel tank to -
2. Coarse mesh type filter - (Please suggest a brand and model number?)
3. Shut-off to (Prevents draining gas from gas tank when changing fuel filter)
4. Fram Fuel Filter - HPG1 to -
5. Holly Red Fuel Pump - (will this pump do the job?)
6. Shut off to - (Prevents draining gas from fuel line, when changing fuel filter)
7. Fuel line to - (Size recommendations?)
8. Carbs (Pair of 750 Edelbrocks)
Does this sequence make sense? Any modifications suggested? How about a recommendation for the coarse filter.

Regards
 
All,

I need some advice on my fuel system plan. I am going to be running a blown SBC Chevy. Based on reading you comments on this board, I plan to go with the following hardware setup & fuel flow sequence:
1. Fuel tank to -
2. Coarse mesh type filter - (Please suggest a brand and model number?)
3. Shut-off to (Prevents draining gas from gas tank when changing fuel filter)
4. Fram Fuel Filter - HPG1 to -
5. Holly Red Fuel Pump - (will this pump do the job?)
6. Shut off to - (Prevents draining gas from fuel line, when changing fuel filter)
7. Fuel line to - (Size recommendations?)
8. Carbs (Pair of 750 Edelbrocks)
Does this sequence make sense? Any modifications suggested? How about a recommendation for the coarse filter.

Regards
24 hours and no comments???

WOW!!!
 
24 hours and no comments???

WOW!!!
I would think the Holley Blue would work better because it has a preasure regulator and a guage so you monitor the fuel preasure.Just my opinion.
 
That sounds about right except I'm not a fan of the Holley pumps. I stick with Aeromotive pumps and filters. 6AN line sizes should be fine. I'm running a 468 with fuel injection and 6AN seems to be fine. Use a teflon coated line or metal for the main runs. I ran steel braided rubber and my shop always smelled like gas until I swapped it out.
 
I've been running a Holley red pump for 10 years on my blown SBC with a single 750. I use just one filter, before the pump. Braided SS AN lines are expensive and a pain to make. Rubber fuel line and hose clamps are fine, unless you are going for a certain look. I also have a fuel pressure gauge on the dash; it'll give you a few minutes warning if you are out of gas or the pump dies.
 
That sounds about right except I'm not a fan of the Holley pumps. I stick with Aeromotive pumps and filters. 6AN line sizes should be fine. I'm running a 468 with fuel injection and 6AN seems to be fine. Use a teflon coated line or metal for the main runs. I ran steel braided rubber and my shop always smelled like gas until I swapped it out.
I checked on the Aeromotive fuel pump last night $324 at Summit and it recommends a $159 regulator, a $99 pre-filter and a $84 post filer.

Whereas, the Holley red is $108 and the Fram HPG-1 is $42.

I recognize the value of not having problems, but Ouch!!
 
I've been running a holley blue for 8 years w/no trouble. Yea, their a little noisy , but you can't hear it over the pipes so ??? If you look in the inlet of a holley , there's a fine screen to catch the big stuff, then put your canister filter on the pressure side & you shouldn't have any problem ! my $.02


dave

P.s. 3/8 [-06] line is plenty big for 99% of the applications that most are running I.M.O.
 
I have a blown small block in my T and here is what I have.

Tank
1/4 turn shut off
Fram filter
Holley blue pump
1/2 line to
Holley or Edelbrock manual pump. CRS here
In line fuel filter
Blue pump regulator
2 3/8 lines 1 to each carb
Edelbrock 600 carbs

I am glad we have 2 pumps on the car. We had a relay go out on the electric pump late one night, but made it home just fine on the mechanical pump.

Also we don't always run the electric pump.
 
I'd run at least a -8 to the filter, then the rest in -8 or 1/2'' hard line. I think the Holley red pump would work fine but the Blue would be a better choice.3/8 lines from the regulator. Use 90 degree hose ends NOT a 90 degree fitting with a straight hose end. One good filter like the Fram one would be enough. I have heard of the diaphram in the mechanical pump rupturing and the electric pump filling the motor with gas . Can't see the point of running an electric and mechanical pumps together. just my 2 c
 
You need at least a 1/2 line to the carbs. I couldn't imagine running only 1 Red pump to a blown motor with two carbs. When you factor in the damage you can cause if you lean out and burn a piston that little extra now will be worth it later. But that is just my opinion and I don't believe in cheaping out is certain areas. Is the motor just a stock sbc with a blower? If it was my car it would have at least an A1000 on it with the matching Aeromotive filters.
 
You need at least a 1/2 line to the carbs. I couldn't imagine running only 1 Red pump to a blown motor with two carbs. When you factor in the damage you can cause if you lean out and burn a piston that little extra now will be worth it later. But that is just my opinion and I don't believe in cheaping out is certain areas. Is the motor just a stock sbc with a blower?

If it was my car it would have at least a -10 fuel line from the tank, through a shut off valve, then a 100 micron filter, then a A1000 pump, a -8 fuel line out followed by a 10 or 40 micron filter.

Technically speaking a forced induction motor will have a BSFC of .6 to .75. There for if you have a 600 hspr motor take your 600x.75 is 450 gallons per hour. Even if it was a wheezer with only 450 hspr you would still need 270 gph at an efficient 0.6 BSFC. Now of course there is always going to be those that broke the rules and got away with it but there is lots that have not. You just don't hear from them.
 
I am probably going to change out my 3/8" system for 1/2". I'm running dual quads on a 6-71 on a 350 SBC. I have leaned out once during a simulated drag launch up to about 60 mph at full throttle. Fortunately I was anticipating it might starve for fuel and was ready when it started popping... I was out of the throttle within a second or so. Bore-scoped the cylinders and checked the plugs right after and no apparent damage. I have since had the heads off and no damage.

I'm on my second Holley Blue. First one burned out within 1,000 miles. Could have been because I was running it wired directly to the ignition switch. I now have it running through a relay with a dedicated ground. Over 2,000 miles with no issues. I carry a spare pump in the car just in case.
 
You need at least a 1/2 line to the carbs. I couldn't imagine running only 1 Red pump to a blown motor with two carbs. When you factor in the damage you can cause if you lean out and burn a piston that little extra now will be worth it later. But that is just my opinion and I don't believe in cheaping out is certain areas. Is the motor just a stock sbc with a blower?

If it was my car it would have at least a -10 fuel line from the tank, through a shut off valve, then a 100 micron filter, then a A1000 pump, a -8 fuel line out followed by a 10 or 40 micron filter.

Technically speaking a forced induction motor will have a BSFC of .6 to .75. There for if you have a 600 hspr motor take your 600x.75 is 450 gallons per hour. Even if it was a wheezer with only 450 hspr you would still need 270 gph at an efficient 0.6 BSFC. Now of course there is always going to be those that broke the rules and got away with it but there is lots that have not. You just don't hear from them.
fordsbyjay - Thanks for your input!

Yes it is going to be a stock 350

Mark
 
You need at least a 1/2 line to the carbs. I couldn't imagine running only 1 Red pump to a blown motor with two carbs. When you factor in the damage you can cause if you lean out and burn a piston that little extra now will be worth it later. But that is just my opinion and I don't believe in cheaping out is certain areas. Is the motor just a stock sbc with a blower?

If it was my car it would have at least a -10 fuel line from the tank, through a shut off valve, then a 100 micron filter, then a A1000 pump, a -8 fuel line out followed by a 10 or 40 micron filter.

Technically speaking a forced induction motor will have a BSFC of .6 to .75. There for if you have a 600 hspr motor take your 600x.75 is 450 gallons per hour. Even if it was a wheezer with only 450 hspr you would still need 270 gph at an efficient 0.6 BSFC. Now of course there is always going to be those that broke the rules and got away with it but there is lots that have not. You just don't hear from them.

1-How about a recommendation (Brand/Model#) for that 100 micron filter.

2-Where does a regulator go in my flow? Make/model recommendation?

3-Sounds like the holley Blue is a better choice for my system.

Thanks,

Mark
 
You need at least a 1/2 line to the carbs. I couldn't imagine running only 1 Red pump to a blown motor with two carbs. When you factor in the damage you can cause if you lean out and burn a piston that little extra now will be worth it later. But that is just my opinion and I don't believe in cheaping out is certain areas. Is the motor just a stock sbc with a blower?

If it was my car it would have at least a -10 fuel line from the tank, through a shut off valve, then a 100 micron filter, then a A1000 pump, a -8 fuel line out followed by a 10 or 40 micron filter.

Technically speaking a forced induction motor will have a BSFC of .6 to .75. There for if you have a 600 hspr motor take your 600x.75 is 450 gallons per hour. Even if it was a wheezer with only 450 hspr you would still need 270 gph at an efficient 0.6 BSFC. Now of course there is always going to be those that broke the rules and got away with it but there is lots that have not. You just don't hear from them.

Hahaha.....A blown motor you don't wanta run lean under any circumstances......3/8's is ok for a stock motor, blower and 2 small 4's. A Hi-Perf. motor w/Blower and 2-4's, you definitely want 1/2.
And with a blower, you want some volume! All that braided line is cool, the Holley Red/Blue pumps, regulator, and filter are all cool....what alot of cars need that they don't have is a fuel log! That will keep from cranking your pressure too high. With the pump your talking about, 1/2 will be good, thats alot of fuel going to the carbs. The Log will be needed on the 3/8's, probably not really needed on the 1/2. But, it'd look cool.
You stand on a hard accelerating car with a big blower and 2-4's, especially anything over 650 cfm, you'll have a drop in pressure at the Y to the carbs. Most folks put the regulator there with the fuel pressure guage. Run a fluid filled guage, easier to read while the engine is running. Having the Y close to the carbs help, and the fuel filter will act like a reservoir to keep fuel from running back down the line.
To keep from cranking your regulator too high to keep fuel in the line, you put in a fuel log. That acts like a reservoir for your fuel.....will keep from running the lines dry.

I've seen drag cars leave the line so hard, that a Hi-Vol pump cranked to 20 PSI will drop to about 6 on leaving the line. The harder that car leaves the stoplight, that liquid is wanting to stay back there at that very same redlight.
Run lean with a blower motor and you'll have to buy some more pistons. Just my 2 pecos....
 
One thing I would recommend for you blown guys. Have a bung welded up on the header collector so you can put a wideband O2 sensor, so you can tune those carbs at wot. It is a staple thing on most anything that is blown /turbo'd or hit with the squeeze these days. Wideband O2 have come way down in price and everybody should own one just as important as a timing light IMHO. Get one in the tool box.
 
W
One thing I would recommend for you blown guys. Have a bung welded up on the header collector so you can put a wideband O2 sensor, so you can tune those carbs at wot. It is a staple thing on most anything that is blown /turbo'd or hit with the squeeze these days. Wideband O2 have come way down in price and everybody should own one just as important as a timing light IMHO. Get one in the tool box.

What he said.....:thumbsup:
 
2-Where does a regulator go in my flow? Make/model recommendation?
As late in the system as you can get it.

One thing you need to remember is your system is only going to flow as much fuel as the smallest port in the system will allow. Use a Holley deadhead regulator and you might as well plumb your system with 1/4" line. You can run -16 line from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the motor, but if you end up stepping down to -6 or -8 line to feed the carbs, that -16 line has suddenly become reservoir and not massive supply. It will never flow more than the -6 or -8 line will allow.

I always recommend a bypass-style regulator and a fuel log, for high volume applications. Yeah, I hear everyone groaning about running a return line to the tank and a clunky-looking fuel log, but when you need consistent volume, this is the safest way to do it.

Plumb everything with minimum -8 line/hose/fittings. And stay as far away from 90° bends as you can. If you have to make a 90° turn, do it with the hose end and make sure it is a tube bend and not a forged-fitting bend. Lay your hands on some 1.750" aluminum tubing, a bit longer than the spread between your end-most carb fittings. Weld a couple of end caps to the tubing. Lay out some -8 adapter fittings along the run of the tubing as supply locations to the carb inlets. We're not looking for just a convenient way to get fuel to each carb inlet, we're also trying to get some additional volume as close to the carbs as we can. When you're finished, it isn't the prettiest piece you've ever seen, so have it anodized to "prettify" it.

Supply one end of your log with output from your fuel pump and attach your bypass regulator to the opposite end. Use a simple two port regulator and you can plumb a pressure gauge into the output port. As for recommendations, talk to Aeromotive and see what they have to help you out. I don't know if they will have anything that might already be boost-referenced, but I'm betting they do. And remember, it only costs a bit more to go first-cabin.

Remember a very basic point most people overlook or fail to understand. A 2X4 carb application is a lot easier to make happy than a 1X4 application, because you have twice as many float bowls to serve as mini-reservoirs for the fuel.

I've seen drag cars leave the line so hard, that a Hi-Vol pump cranked to 20 PSI will drop to about 6 on leaving the line. The harder that car leaves the stoplight, that liquid is wanting to stay back there at that very same redlight.
Which is why the drag cars that can, all use front-mounted fuel cells. And that is also where the fallacy of ginormous fuel lines from a rear tank leading forward comes into play. We think (erroneously) if a -8 supply line is a good thing, then -10 is better and -12 is even better yet. But when you remember the fuel in that line has mass, a -12 supply line can actually be worse than a -8 supply line. Because the column of fuel in that -12 line has more mass and is going to be even harder to keep moving under hard acceleration. For something capable of 60 foot times any faster than 1.10, -10 is about as big as you want to get with a rear-mounted fuel cell. Anything larger crosses over into the diminishing return range.
 
1-How about a recommendation (Brand/Model#) for that 100 micron filter.

2-Where does a regulator go in my flow? Make/model recommendation?

3-Sounds like the holley Blue is a better choice for my system.

Thanks,

Mark

I used the Aeromotive filter on my Falcon so that is all I am familiar with. My bucket is not blown and just uses a Holley Blue pump. I also tried a Edelbrock pump on my 56 because it was supposed to be quieter. NOT. It is just as noisy as my blue pumps.
 

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