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Nuts and bolts, stainless, chrome, brass, zinc coated.Fine thread, coarse thread, Nyloc, castle, wingnuts. and the ones you have for marking-up/build process and the ones for final assembly.
 
Brian,

The only thing that I did not see on your list was a "Puke Tank" for the radiator - Note an old Jack Daniels bottle or an old tall boy beer can will work fine.

One thing to keep in mind is that you do not need to buy the entire list at the same time (unless Speedway is having a BIG sale). It will help your cash flow if you only buy the parts that you need for the next X number of weeks. Assembly those and when you nearing completion of those tasks, order the next lot.

Another thing that might be helpful to you is a build sequence chart. (i.e. What comes first/What comes next!) I have posted a couple of different ones in the past. If you need me to re-post them, I would be happy to.
 
Mark
I never thought of a build sequence chart/process. That's a very helpful tip Thanks! I found the Spirit Assembly .pdf you posted way back when. Thanks again.
 
Correct me if I am heading the wrong way, but my first 3 major projects should be (in order of priority) 1.) mount body on frame. 2.) install suspension to get a rolling chassis 3.) install drivetrain. It seems that all other parts are based around these big milestones.
 
Yes, have body first as everything revolves around it. Frame and all else will have to be cut to fit your specs as you want, and those will change as you progress.

Come Sunday to the Dogwood Festival car show and talk with me. Silver T-Bucket--Long Hair and Beard.
 
My wife was talking about going on Sunday, so I may drop by and say hi. We have a baseball tournament this weekend, but fortunately it’s in town and not Myrtle Beach or Raleigh or somewhere like that.
 
Correct me if I am heading the wrong way, but my first 3 major projects should be (in order of priority) 1.) mount body on frame. 2.) install suspension to get a rolling chassis 3.) install drivetrain. It seems that all other parts are based around these big milestones.

Certainly getting the body/frame marriage sorted out is a priority, but . . . it's much easier to install subsystems like brakes, fuel lines, etc. on a bare rolling chassis; also, things like glassing the underside of the body to seal it up - much easier when in's not permanently mounted. The other crucial thing is your choice for rolling stock - wheels and tires. To have the final specs for these items - if not the actual units - is critical for things like ride-height, scrub lines, etc. ;)
 
The longer I hang around these forums, the more words I see that I don’t really know what they mean.
1. Bird Cage?
2. Scrub Lines?
3. Glassing the bottom. I assume adding fiberglass reinforcements to the body
 
Glassing the bottom refers to applying a resin coat to the wood floor in your bucket to make it water proof. If your body's floor has been molded in during manufacturing, then this is not necessary.

Scrub lines are explained in this article from www.streetrod101.com
The red lines in these drawings represent the scrub lines. It is defined as an imaginary line drawn from the lowest point of the rim diameter of one wheel to the bottom of the tire on the opposite wheel. In theory, if one of the tires were to go flat or blowout, the frame will drop only to the point of the rim diameter. No components such as the oil pan, transmission, differential, brake booster, power steering rack and pinion assembly, etc. should be installed below this line. If so, there would be a high possibility that the component(s) below the scrub line would be damaged by hitting the road.

upload_2018-4-28_23-25-36.png upload_2018-4-28_23-26-51.png
 
I appreciate the explanation. I truely enjoy learning new things about cars. My dirt bike/ATV knowledge is strong, but cars is kinda weak right now.
 
The idea of 'scrub line' is that if all 4 tires went flat, would any part of your car touch/drag on the ground.
 
Glassing the bottom also includes the application of fiberglass along with resin to strengthen and waterproof a plywood or other material floor and the joint(s) where it attaches to the sides. For my money, having a floor molded in as an integral part of the body during fabrication is best. I know CCR does this, RPM and Spirit may as well, I just can't remember.
 
T-Test. It was good meeting you today. Thank you for taking time to talk with us and sharing some tips. Once I drag the bucket home, I will have to have you and your wife over for a visit and pick your brain some more. If you ever need an extra set of hands let me know. I’m not too far away.
 
Always nice to meet new people that are really interested in these little cars and are willing to learn from others. Welcome to a new and fun world of hot rods that many don't get to enjoy.
Bruce
 
From my experience, the body and controls need to be considered as a priority along with engine and trans position. Once you establish those locations, be prepared to install and remove the body numerous times to make things work out. At least with mine, there were some tight areas that required attention, but I was building a standard 23 bob tail with a bbc and manual trans, so making room for everything was a chore.
 
T-Test. It was good meeting you today. Thank you for taking time to talk with us and sharing some tips.
Way to go Bruce!!! Get him signed up for the Carolina T's while you are there!
 
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I think this is close to the end results that I am wanting to achieve. Things will obviously change over time, such as color, wheels, etc... but when I think of me in a bucket, this is what I see. Now time to scrub the list and make sure that each of those components help achieve this goal. If only there was a computer program that would allow you to input part numbers and it installs them on the car. You could see what it would look like and make adjustments as needed. I guess photoshop does it, but I’m not very good with that software.
Not sure where I got this photo from, so I am unable to give credit to the owner/builder. Whomever it was, well done!
 

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