I have been thinking of buying a T bucket,it is a steel body,283 and powerglide. It has sat for years at a friends farm so I know it will need everything.I remember seeing him driving it when I was in my teens.Looking to see what everyone has been doing to make a safe and enjoyable car. Thanks every one.
New guy from Maryland
- Thread starter xdrag48
- Start date
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Welcome aboard, there's an incredible amount of skills and experience here, always willing to help a new buckethead.
Not knowing your skills, tools/equipment, and shop space levels, let me offer a general caveat or two:
Restoring steel body barn/farm finds can be a major challenge, even for a pro, and will, with few exceptions, end up costing orders of magnitude more than you initially thought by the time it's done. . . . . And that's if you actually finish it before becoming burned out and passing it along to the next guy with wide eyes.
If you're of moderate to intermediate levels of skills and shop equipment, a fiberglass bodied T that either currently, or at least somewhat recently, runs and drives is a much better choice for your first T. You'll probably be able to make a much more accurate initial approximation of what you'll need to be spending and be enjoying it on the road a lot sooner.
Not knowing your skills, tools/equipment, and shop space levels, let me offer a general caveat or two:
Restoring steel body barn/farm finds can be a major challenge, even for a pro, and will, with few exceptions, end up costing orders of magnitude more than you initially thought by the time it's done. . . . . And that's if you actually finish it before becoming burned out and passing it along to the next guy with wide eyes.
If you're of moderate to intermediate levels of skills and shop equipment, a fiberglass bodied T that either currently, or at least somewhat recently, runs and drives is a much better choice for your first T. You'll probably be able to make a much more accurate initial approximation of what you'll need to be spending and be enjoying it on the road a lot sooner.
Welcome from the Grand Canyon State!
Agreed with Island Girl... "sat for years" could mean a lot of things... from cobwebs to flood.
It's along way from the barn to the highway...
Bottom line - Do your homework before you open up your wallet.
As an old dude, here's what I would do first:
Clear a path all the way around the vehicle, then look at the rust, which it will have plenty of.
Poke it with a pen or your finger.
Remember: Everything sits on the frame... if that's crumbly, you will either have to fix it or replace it.
That's step 1.
With good welding skills, welding tools and plenty of materials, you can do wonders.
But...If any of those are missing from the equation, your job just got harder and waaay more expensive.
(There's probably a Venn diagram out there somewhere that can explain it better than I.)
I'm not going to discourage you.
I encourage you to look at your potential hot rod with a microscope and educate yourself.
Your gut will tell you if she's right for you.
Agreed with Island Girl... "sat for years" could mean a lot of things... from cobwebs to flood.
It's along way from the barn to the highway...
Bottom line - Do your homework before you open up your wallet.
As an old dude, here's what I would do first:
Clear a path all the way around the vehicle, then look at the rust, which it will have plenty of.
Poke it with a pen or your finger.
Remember: Everything sits on the frame... if that's crumbly, you will either have to fix it or replace it.
That's step 1.
With good welding skills, welding tools and plenty of materials, you can do wonders.
But...If any of those are missing from the equation, your job just got harder and waaay more expensive.
(There's probably a Venn diagram out there somewhere that can explain it better than I.)
I'm not going to discourage you.
I encourage you to look at your potential hot rod with a microscope and educate yourself.
Your gut will tell you if she's right for you.
Welcome, xdrag48, and from your handle I gather this isn't your first rodeo. While I share some of the reservations expressed above, I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm. Those are 'good bones' for a nostalgic T-bucket, and if you have some modest skills, and the condition is not too bad, it could be brought back to life. The price will dictate your next move, IMHO. If you can get it cheap, and the drivetrain is salvageable, go for it.
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Not wanting to discourage anyone . . . . but . . . .
Even if it's free and the drivetrain's salvageable, the amount of rust and completeness can still mean a ma$$ive final cost, so be guided accordingly . . . . Being able to reasonably complete the project goes a long way towards the overall enjoyment of the undertaking.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Welcome from Oklahoma.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Skill makes a difference too!
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
I think we've hit the point where some pics are needed . . .
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