New torque converter

[donsrods]

I think everyone has that initial fear that if you put a 3000 or 3500 stall convertor in a car it will drive like a drag car and slip really bad. The fact is, you hardly notice any difference in drivability, it will drive pretty much like a normal car. You do get better out of the hole acceleration , no creep at lights, and less jump when going from neutral to drive, but aside from that it works just like any other convertor.

Don't be afraid to put one in, it is all upsides and no downsides.

Don

 

[Screaming Metal]

I think everyone has that initial fear that if you put a 3000 or 3500 stall convertor in a car it will drive like a drag car and slip really bad. The fact is, you hardly notice any difference in drivability, it will drive pretty much like a normal car. You do get better out of the hole acceleration , no creep at lights, and less jump when going from neutral to drive, but aside from that it works just like any other convertor.

Don't be afraid to put one in, it is all upsides and no downsides.

Don

Don is completely right, a low rpm converter trys to shove you thru a light so much sometimes you really gotta stand on the brake to hold it. It does not take long for a persons foot to get tired that way....and that makes a person dread cruisin'....which is what a T is all about!

 

[The Hustler]

Spot on. First check the vac line from the engine to the modulator (if it has one ) for leaks. Then pull the vac line from the modulator and look up the end of the pipe for a screw. If it has one back it off 1/2 turn, reconnect the line and give it a try. Better?? then keep adjusting it till you get a good shift. Be careful though, if you adjust it too much the other way you will loose pressure and get flairs (slipping). KD on the 350 is just that. I dont run one and most on here have done away with it as well.
Cant really help with the VB as its hard to know whats been done to it. Spring pressures, holes been opened out or blocked. Had A C4 VB in an English Devon, that took us 3 weeks to figure out and then only by sending a pic to John senior at JW racing. In the end got one from them built to our specs. If in doubt, borrow or buy a standard VB and start from there.

[qu

And just because theres a line going from A to B, make sure it can hold vacuum or pressure. I've seen 100's of ones where the line was cracked, slipped off, cut or just plain stopped up with crap.
Sound like it could be a simple fix. Take it to a trans shop you trust if your unfamiliar. Modulators are cheap, its nothing to change one, even the adjustable kind. Run some new hose up to the motor and run full manifold vacuum to it....
As Gerry said, with a VB, it could be anyones guess. Go for the simplest first, new vacuum line, the the modulator. Then try to adjust it out. I'd do that before taking her to a trans shop....might save yourself a few dollars if its simple.

ote="Screaming Metal, post: 154510, member: 3865"]What He Said!!!!! Wanna shift like a Std? And just think, you don't even need a clutch![/quote]

 

[The Hustler]

I went to NAPA and bought a piece of vacuum line and ran it from the back of the carb to the modulator, and eureka, it shifts as smooth as my wifes new car at the correct speeds. I am so happy!!! Thanks for all the advice.

 

[railroad]

Be advised, if the vacuum line gets warm, with high vacuum can collapse. Being in open air and using high quality line, you will probably be alright. OEM uses steel line with rubber on the ends only.

 

[sstock]

Be advised, if the vacuum line gets warm, with high vacuum can collapse. Being in open air and using high quality line, you will probably be alright. OEM uses steel line with rubber on the ends only.

Yeah definitely would go 3/16" steel tubing

 

[Screaming Metal]

I concur, since you have indeed found the problem, I would put on the steel line. Bend it as close as you can to the original profile of the motor and trans, make the ends rubber where they connect. Roll up the rest of that vacuum line and keep it in your tool box...you'll use it again! When a vacuum line is in doubt, always replace with a piece of new line....

 

[Screaming Metal]

Also, on the torque converter, if you like to work on your T, have the wrenches, jack and stands, its easy enough to do it yourself. Just gotta make sure your converter engages the pump fully, as long as you have to slide the converter forward to bolt it up to the ringgear, your good to go....if its sticking out past the bellhousing face, your not engaged in the pump....

 

[sstock]

Also, on the torque converter, if you like to work on your T, have the wrenches, jack and stands, its easy enough to do it yourself. Just gotta make sure your converter engages the pump fully, as long as you have to slide the converter forward to bolt it up to the ringgear, your good to go....if its sticking out past the bellhousing face, your not engaged in the pump....

Good point, that is a way to destroy the pump if the TC is not completely engaged

 

[The Hustler]

I'm good right now, thanks.