Oasis Floral Foam.....Where can I find a good deal?

[Larry]

I wish I had that many clamps. Hope it stays straight

 

[kcline40]

Well it's staying straight with clamps. I am going to get creative to lay glass over it. Basically it will have to stay clamped while glassing. So even with all of my clamps, I have the wrong ones. So a trip to Menards tomorrow morning to switch out clamps. Then more filler to finish leveling it out then glass.

 

[choppinczech]

Can you epoxy the frame in place first?

Or temporarily pop rivet the panels to the frame from the outside? They're easy to drill out and fill later.

 

[kcline40]

To late to epoxy. I have filled the gap and made it nice and level. I am going to glass the top edges in tonight. Then glass the rest in this weekend.

 

[kcline40]

Here's a few photos of the progress.

 

[kcline40]

Got it glasses we'll see if it holds later today since its 2 AM here.

 

[kcline40]

Well this worked out. I removed the clamps and it held and did not bow back out.

 

[Larry]

Woo hoo...

 

[choppinczech]

Looking good.

Can you do the rest with it bolted to the tub?

I'd hate to see it not join up after all that work.

 

[kcline40]

Not ready for that yet. I have to build door jams And install the dash. The cage was built while it was attached to the body.

 

[kcline40]

Looking good.

Can you do the rest with it bolted to the tub?

I'd hate to see it not join up after all that work.

So I actually built the cage that you see in the pics while the 2 pieces of the body where connected. I am not worried about them re-attaching together. It will happen.

My next concern is installing the dash. Currently the bar that supports the Steering column is a 1/2 inch forward of the dash. I have purchased a pre-molded dash from some one on the east coast. Now I need to decide how to mount it flush with the steering column support.

Initially my idea was to take a piece of 1/2 inch foam board insulation and build out the current dash to meet the Steering wheel support so it covers the support and makes the tub look completely glassed. I am concerned about strength once the foam board insulation has been glassed.

choppinczech I would like your opinion on this. I can post pictures after 9:00pm CST.

Thanks in advance.

 

[choppinczech]

Yes, post some pics. I'm sure we can figure it out.

 

[kcline40]

The 1/2 inch gap

The Filler material

Backside pic with Foam

After market dash

 

[choppinczech]

Here's what I would do with it.

I'd cut the original dash out and secure (float) the new dash in place. Bridge the gap with foil tape. And lay up the gap from the inside.

A while back I needed to move my dash to the left a bit. HVAC foil tape works really well as a backup for glassing. You could use anything to hold the new dash in position. I use lots of sticks and hot melt glue.





Yours would obviously be a big open space like this after removing the original dash.







If you can raise and flip the body over, you can stand while you work.




You'd have a foil tape covered gap like this but all the way around. Resin doesn't stick to either side of this tape. 2-3 layers is pretty rigid. Palm size pieces of torn mat would be the choice here.

Tough to see here, but the edges are ground to a taper. 2" from the cut edge, down to 0".




If you do all of your glassing on the inside, it's easy to finish out. Just a bit of body filler.

 

[2old2fast]

The other plus is w/only 1 thickness of glass , it will be much simpler to mount your gauges !!
dave

 

[kcline40]

Here's what I would do with it.

I'd cut the original dash out and secure (float) the new dash in place. Bridge the gap with foil tape. And lay up the gap from the inside.

A while back I needed to move my dash to the left a bit. HVAC foil tape works really well as a backup for glassing. You could use anything to hold the new dash in position. I use lots of sticks and hot melt glue.

If you can raise and flip the body over, you can stand while you work.

If you do all of your glassing on the inside, it's easy to finish out. Just a bit of body filler.

I will really have to think about this before cutting. The original body is a 1/2" back behind the column mount. I would have to build the aftermarket dash out a 1/2 inch regardless. Its not really a structure issue any more if the foam is eliminated.

I not as lucky as you to have a forklift in my 2 car garage. I could hang it from the trussing with some ratchet straps if I was very daring.

This one has me puzzled. I may still have to use the foam to create a mold in which to glass over. I would like the metal bar of the column drop to be covered.

 

[choppinczech]

I may still have to use the foam to create a mold in which to glass over.

You could sure do that too. Just cut out the flat face off the original dash and add your foam between the two. You'd be building up glass on the outside instead.

After the area has cured, you just dig out the insulation.

 

[EX JUNK]

I will really have to think about this before cutting. The original body is a 1/2" back behind the column mount. I would have to build the aftermarket dash out a 1/2 inch regardless. Its not really a structure issue any more if the foam is eliminated.

I not as lucky as you to have a forklift in my 2 car garage. I could hang it from the trussing with some ratchet straps if I was very daring.

This one has me puzzled. I may still have to use the foam to create a mold in which to glass over. I would like the metal bar of the column drop to be covered.

Perhaps this picture may give you some ideas. The bottom of my dash is a piece of 3/4"x3/4" square tubing. It is supported by the same tubing on either end that goes clear to the floor and connects to a piece of 3/16" plate that extends inward and stops over the frame creating a strong body mounting point to the frame. The tubing in the bottom of the dash mounts the homemade column drop and it is completely wrapped in glass creating a feature that compliments the feature that wraps over the top of the dash.



Jim

 

[choppinczech]

The tubing in the bottom of the dash mounts the homemade column drop and it is completely wrapped in glass creating a feature that compliments the feature that wraps over the top of the dash.

This would be a good option for your car too kcline40.

 

[fletcherson]

Perhaps this picture may give you some ideas. The bottom of my dash is a piece of 3/4"x3/4" square tubing. It is supported by the same tubing on either end that goes clear to the floor and connects to a piece of 3/16" plate that extends inward and stops over the frame creating a strong body mounting point to the frame. The tubing in the bottom of the dash mounts the homemade column drop and it is completely wrapped in glass creating a feature that compliments the feature that wraps over the top of the dash.



Jim

I like your dash, clean, symmetrical, not cluttered. Nice! That is similar to what I have in mind for my project. What did you use for the plate? I salvaged a nice large piece of brushed stainless steel from a side by side refrigerator door that I have been contemplating incorporating on my dash. I am not committed yet. I really like the look of the auto meter American Classic series with the stainless face plates, but I'm still choking on the price... When I bought the bucket, it came with a old dash plate gauge bezel that is shaped like a '32 dash center section, it's Ss with a brass plate in the center. I like it, and it's different than most I see, but it only has provisions for one large and four smaller gauges, so I'm on the fence because I want a dash mounted tach that matches, and the symmetric thing...