Garage Merch                Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Oil Pan Clearance

kgrimm

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
I recently pulled the motor (302 Ford) out of my TP bucket to repair a leaky rear seal and take care of a few other issues. With the motor out, I could see a spot where the oil pan was rubbing on the crossmember, causing some noticible wear to both. How can I remedy this? I see three options
1. Shim the motor mounts enough for cleareance between pan and crossmember (3/8" or so maximum);
2. Put a dimple in the pan (least favorite-the contact spot is on a corner ane the new pan is chrome); or
3. Notch the crossmember slightly (cut notch out of tube, "box" with welded-in plate).
Which do you guys think is the best option? I'm very open to suggestions snd I want to do it "right"-no rubbing, no weakness, no damage (long or short term) to other parts, etc. Thanks in advance for sharing your wisdom!
 
Depending on the thickness of the material heat might not be needed. Take a hammer and start hitting it. Don't just wail away but hit repeatedly with medium force in the same spot and after several hits the metal should start to move. If not, slowly increase pressure. What happens is the metal will soften, move slowly and be nice and smooth contour vs. a big ugly dent.

That being said I would shim it first as it is easiest. If you have a welder I would notch it as that would be best.
 
Things to consider: If you shim, the angle of the motor will change, unless you shim the tranny mount too. And if you do that, the motor/tranny might hit the tunnel or firewall. I just went thru all of this in project "big redo of the old bucket". In my case the pan was hitting the ground too much. I shimmed it all up 1-3/8", and had to cut out the tunnel.
 
#3 or BFH and heat.:sneaky:
 
What are you using for motor mounts ? Is there a motor mount going bad? Was this like this since day one do you now. Sounds like some thing has may moved or just settled
 
What are you using for motor mounts ? Is there a motor mount going bad? Was this like this since day one do you now. Sounds like some thing has may moved or just settled
The motor mounts are fairly basic-rubber sandwiched between two metal brackets. They don't appear bad, as the sides are still fairly straight with no bulges. I bought the car second hand, so it may have always been that way-you can't really tell with the motor in the car.
 
To me the simplest, easiest way here would be to put some shims between the motor mount and the block. No heat no hammer. You start heating and beating on a cross member and it could tweak the whole frame. Those TP cars only used a 1 1/2 x 3 tube with 1/8" wall frame so they were not the strongest frames out there.
 
If it is a front sump pan, look for a rear sump pan ... might resolve your issues.
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top