Old chevy I-Beam

[HAceT]

I've seen several pic's of T's with the I-Beam style front axle and they have holes cut in them. Did they come that way or is that something I can do to mine to make it look different? I am using a old Chevy I-Beam and would like to have the holes in them. Maybe round or square or some other design. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[tfeverfred]

They did not come with holes. If I remember correctly, it was done to reduce wieght, by drag racers and like a lot of things associated with drag racing, the look evolved to the streets.

And yes, the "look" is good when applied correctly.

 

[tfeverfred]

Now come on.... don't that drilled axle look BITCHEN'!

You mentioned you have a Chevy. Probably an Econoline? Very traditional and it is more than able to work with a T Bucket. Check out Roth's bucket styled rides.

 

[donsrods]

I drilled mine on both my '27 and my '23. A drill press and a bimetal holesaw works perfect. I used a 7/8 inch size because it fit better into the channel of the I beam, but some people use 1 inch ones. What I do first is lay out a scribe line down the very center of the axle, from side to side. Then I lay 1 inch fender washers (OD) in a symentrical pattern across the scribe line until I get the pattern I want. Then I drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center of each spot where I want the 7/8 hole to end up, and finally, I use a hole saw with a metal dowel rod inserted instead of a drill bit (it doesn't wallow out the hole and walk on you this way) and I cut out the final holes.

Don

 

[Rick]

Thanks Don for the tip on using the dowel rod after you first drill with the 1/4 ".File that one away

 

[donsrods]

Thanks Don for the tip on using the dowel rod after you first drill with the 1/4 ".File that one away

I wish I could take credit for that one, but it was suggested by another member on one forum I belong to, and darned if it doesn't work. The problem I always had with holesaws is that the 1/4 inch bit would route out the center hole while cutting and you would end up with a ragged cut, especially in thicker steel. I used to drill a 3/16 hole first, then let the 1/4 bit on the holesaw center itself on that, but it was still a problem.

The guy who suggested that said to use 1/4 inch drill rod, but who has that laying around? So I took a long 1/4 grade 8 bolt and cut the head off, and ground a flat spot on the threaded end so it would register on the holesaw set screw. Now I had a long, smooth shaft in the center, and when inserted into a predrilled 1/4 inch hole it stayed centered all the way through.

That's the cool thing about forums, we all learn tricks from one another. :welcome:

Don

 

[Rick]

Amen to that

 

[Duke]

I used an old long roll pin punch I had, cut the round end off. Ground a flat spot on one end.

 

[HAceT]

Ok. Thanks for the input. No it's not Econoline it is a old Chevy truck axle. You tried to throw me a trick question didn't you. The next question is does it hurt the strength of the axle? I don't want to mess anything up.

 

[donsrods]

It only marginally affects the strength, not enough to even think about unless you go nuts and remove a whole lot of material. But if you just space out some nice holes for cosmetics, it will be fine. And you will lighten the car by over 1 whole ounce. :welcome::lol:

Don

 

[Todd]

Thanks Don for the tip on using the dowel rod after you first drill with the 1/4 ".File that one away

This one is very important when drilling holes for gauges.

 

[HAceT]

Ok. Thanks donsrod. I guess I know what I'll be doing today.