Parts Identification

[Mr. Fixit]

Need a little help here please. Of the three parts shown below, I have no idea what two of them are or do. Can you guys help me to identify them, their proper installation and any does or dont's? Although it will still be some time before I get to putting this thing back together, I would like to plan out part location, etc.

Thanks,

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Oops, I did mean "Do's or Dont's"

 

[putz]

First is voltage regulator for charging system on older ford alternators.Second is a starter solenoid for older fords.Lastly is a resistor for stepping down the voltage for your coil.

 

[tfeverfred]

Putz is correct. Man, I have not seen those in a long time. This new tech age we live in sucks.:buttkick:

 

[donsrods]

As far as do's and don'ts........the black starter solenoid has to be hooked up a certain way. The fat terminal at the bottom of your picture goes to the battery positive post with a battery cable. The other fat terminal has a battery cable from there to the single post on your Ford starter.

There are two skinny posts on the front, one has "S" stamped by it. A wire goes from there to the "S" or "Start" terminal on your ignition switch. When you turn the key to the start position juice flows and makes the solenoid let current pass to the starter to crank the car.

The other skinny post has "I" on it for ignition. A wire goes from that post to the + side of your coil. While you are cranking the starter pure 12 volts is fed out of that terminal to the coil to give your engine more voltage to help it start faster. Once you release the key into the "Run" or "on" position current then goes from the "I" terminal on the ignition switch through that white rectangular resistor you have pictured, and exits as something like 4-7 volts, which is what most engines use during running.

Be sure to check your distributor to see what kind of voltage the manufacturer wants to see coming into the distributor while running, some are set up for the reduced voltage but some want 12 volts at all times.

Don

PS, I'd replace that solenoid just for GP, it looks a little rusty and they aren't that expensive.Now that I look at it, the resistor has seen better days too.

 

[putz]

Also if you get a internal regulator alternator it is a lot less wires and better looking than the older styles.

 

[butch27]

Hey: I'm running all of that stuff on mine.LOL

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Okay, with all of that said, I should mention that the car has a SBC 350 with a mallory Unilite distributor and OEM GM starter. Is there some redundancy in the parts that I have shown? It has been a long time since I assembled a car, actually a chevy and dont recall using any of these parts. Am I incorrect? Do I need to use all of these things?

Thank you for the help..:buttkick:

 

[putz]

None of those ford parts that I know of unless the unilte requires a resistor.

 

[rooster57]

I use the solenoid as a battery isolator so when my car is shut off the starter power cable is not hot.

 

[Mr. Fixit]

I use the solenoid as a battery isolator so when my car is shut off the starter power cable is not hot.

Wouldn't one of those main shut off switches do the job? I had one of those connected too. I wish I had taken a picture of the wiring mess that used to be below the seat. It looked like a very frustrated and neurotic spider spent too much time there. :buttkick:

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Also if you get a internal regulator alternator it is a lot less wires and better looking than the older styles.

How can I tell what type of alternator I have? Would a picture help, or are there numbers???

 

[putz]

Pics tell the story.

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Ok then, here are the pics. I tried to get the alternator to smile, but apparently she didn't get a charge out of that. :lol: